Originally Posted by
HaydEn
1.Brakes: few good options out there these days for wilwoods and stock 312mm discs. If you’ve really got 280kg out of it, it should be down around the 1150kg mark. 334mm will just be added weight for not a massive gain in stopping force.
Brakes done.
2.Suspension: There’s plenty of bushings in 4mo’s and the rear is hard to get a decent alignment on without changing a lot of the components. Solid subframe bushings, poly/spherical control arm bushings (powerflex do a spherical in an oem sized casing) or go to tubular control arms for adjustability in the front. Change to S3/TT/MK4 R32 knuckles and control arms for more camber adjustment and a slightly better steering geometry
It has Billsteins all round. not adjustable coil overs though.
I will make CMo rear arms with spherical bearings shorty. I’m also looking at how I can put real coil overs with better mounting points (geometry) on the rear.
I do like the tubular front arms. If I could get a sample set I’d jig them up and make them myself. Need someone to volunteer theirs to measure up off.
3.Cooling: engine oil gets hot quick, I’ve got a 15 row oil cooler and it still gets hot after a couple consistent hot laps. Brakes don’t have any ducting from factory. Also there is a lot of coolant hoses that pass over the exhaust manifolds that can absorb heat. Move the coolant ball to the passenger side and ditch all those hoses.
Agree with the oil issue. I have a dry sump in one of my other cars. It would certainly be the way to go, but I’m not ready, yet. A fan and cooler unit looks like the way for now.
I’ve stripped all of the cool and houses and relocated the overflow tank.
4.Power: Cams and internal mods are far to expensive for the gain on a 24v N/A. If you’ve got yourself the later Bora with a BDE, you can swap on a R32 head. E85 and flash tune ecu. But by that point if you are a handy fabricator you can turbocharge it for the same cost. Just as I mentioned earlier, the heat back there is ridiculous. Would need to go over the top with protection and venting to try get some reliability out of the components near the exhaust side. Hoses, electrical components and not to mention the engine itself.
I have the turbo already. I think it would be the way to go. I could remote mount it under the rear seat or behind the rear axle which would resolve some weight distribution issues, but the I have Lag to deal with. Just a thought. I am definitely going with a aftermarket ECU - Ecumaster BlackEmu is my choice atm.
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