Haldex Gen-4 Oil filter orientation matter or not?

[vcreation]

guys, i just changed my Haldex Gen-4 oil and filter... I used the wood screw method (self tapper screw with hex end), and ply the white part out with long pliers against the pump housing. Easy job

Just before i throw away the old filter and noticed the white plastic thing with gasket/oring. it has special pattern on it and between the 2 O'ring it has 2 holes, on opposite side. With plastic groove blocking it off. Just wondering does it matter which way you put it in. or does the holes have to face up/Down, or Horizontally? if direction matters im in trouble

[Perthdisco]

I’m about to do same job. There’s many videos on YouTube and I’ve not seen orientation mentioned.

What they do strongly recommend is to pull out the electric pump motor which has a fine screen on the intake. This gets clogged worse than the filter. It is easily cleaned and clean in the recess also before reinstalling.


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[vcreation]

yes i have no idea, but there is no fault code yet. i donno how i can test if 4WD is working... like slam on the gas in rain on hill start see if it go or spin?? there is no off-road around here to test.

with the pump, i wanted to do it but unable to get that O-RING. dealership has no stock and i can order one from UK for $70. $70 for 2 rubber rings! i don't wanna risk re-using O-ring and waste $90 bottle of oil. if u know where to order those O-Rings please share with me i'll order a set for next time

that haldex drain bolt is 8mm hex super long and super tight, u'll need a 8mm hex to 3/8" ratchet with long extension(duel to clearance of the ratchet head)to get it off(ordered from ebay for $6.4). 1/4" ratchet will be a workout! fill bolt is 5mm hex same as fill/drain bolt of front/rear diff. filter cap is 4mm allen, can only be done with 4mm allen key, small ratchet won't fit in there but it's not tight, it doesnt seal anything just hold the filter cover (white part) in place.

i break off the original washer with needle nose plies. and replace with slightly larger 'Internal Diameter' copper crush washers so it slide over the threads, it's slightly more loose than original but only off by 0.5mm.

Haldex fill plug, front/rear diff drain/fill plugs are all same bolt, takes copper washer of 10mm ID, 13mm OD
Haldex drain plug is larger, take copper washer of 10mm ID, 16MM OD
TBH washers dont have to be perfect size as long as it seals. i order a box of assorted copper washer from China they are super soft, torqued all drain plugs to 15NM and fill plugs to 12NM, been 3 days no leak.

i did all those oil @70,000km front diff oil is slightly dark, so is the haldex. new haldex oil is almost clear. and rear diff oil is like new condition. maybe there is no movement there almost like sitting in the bottle. but next time im not use genuine diff oil, $65 a pop while liquid moly 75w/90 GL4+ only $28. haldex is the expensive one $90 for filter $90 for oil

as for pumping, i just pump the whole 850ML in and done. diffs leak out a little as they take 900ml but haldex not much drip out of the 850ml.

Good luck with ur oil change and enjoy next 60,000kms


this is the bolt i use to take filter out

[Perthdisco]

Many thanks for heads up useful info. I’ve ordered already some long hex extensions for the job.

VAGparts does the Haldex kit.

I’ve never seen them replace motor o rings on the video. Usually if you go to a hydraulic shop like Pirtek you can get any o ring for very little. I think that screen on the motor getting blocked is the thing that damages them worse.

Haldexrepairs.co.uk sell them for 2.49 GBP.

What are you talking about ref breaking the washer off?

My new to me Tiguan is at 155k kms and I can see no record of a Haldex (or diff or ATF) oil change so expecting a horror show.


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[vcreation]

Original crush washer is fix on the bolt so I break it off and replace copper crush washer. This way it will seal and no need very tight.

[Perthdisco]

Original crush washer is fix on the bolt so I break it off and replace copper crush washer. This way it will seal and no need very tight.

Bought new ones with the filter and oil kit for very few dollars. The fill has copper washer but larger drain looks like it’s a steel washer.


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[Perthdisco]

guys, i just changed my Haldex Gen-4 oil and filter... I used the wood screw method (self tapper screw with hex end), and ply the white part out with long pliers against the pump housing. Easy job

Just before i throw away the old filter and noticed the white plastic thing with gasket/oring. it has special pattern on it and between the 2 O'ring it has 2 holes, on opposite side. With plastic groove blocking it off. Just wondering does it matter which way you put it in. or does the holes have to face up/Down, or Horizontally? if direction matters im in trouble

To remove this tricky part I was ready with the screw and washer trick as you describe. I had the new filter assembly so could check the perfect screw size for the job in advance.

In the end I first tried another trick I saw on YouTube. I loosened the cap bolts fully and prised the metal cap out to the end of the bolts with a screwdriver. In reality you could probably remove it.

Then I had someone start the car with me underneath and the Haldex pump runs to pressurise the system and pushes this white filter plug out of the bore till the first o-ring is showing. A small amount of oil is released but it’s more reassuring to see the system operate.

After that I was able to very simply pop the part out easily with a small screwdriver on the exposed edge and then fish the black filter out with a small hooked pick. Again, you can look at the new one to see how to grab it.


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