Tiguan Care & Info Sheet

[Arctra]

A lot of the threads so far are around buying your new Tiguan, but once that's done you have the ongoing maintenance and care of the vehicle. So i thought I'd start a thread that will hopefully be contributed to and become sticky.

Please try and avoid putting in unhelpful opinions and going off topic so that the thread remains useful. I've started it with what I have found out so far, but there are many other areas that will be covered I'm sure. I'll try maintain this first post with updates.

Disclaimer: I am no mechanic or VW expert. I simply try and work of the knowledge of those in the know. Please do not hold me responsible for any damage resulting from the advice in this post/thread. It is simply provided as assistance should you wish to take it. Feel free to disregard it if you do not agree.

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Engine Care
Running-in TDI Engine
Running a TDI engine in summary (Please note a pertol engine will require different treatment):
It's not rocket science. Just drive the thing as you intend to - with two exceptions:

1. Don't sit on the highway with the cruise control on for extended periods.
2. Warm the bugger up properly before planting the boot. To do this, all you need to do is move off straight after starting (no letting it idle for 5 minutes - and no sitting there revving the tit's off it to get it warmed up!). The quickest way to warm up the engine is to drive it - but gently until it's properly warmed (about 5-10min on most cars).

After that, "drive it like you intend to drive after it's run-in"

Recommend reading this thread on running-in your diesel engine: TDIClub Forums - View Single Post - Diesel Engine Break-In Myth?

First 1000KM’s

• Cold: no higher than 2800 RPM till warmed up
• Warm: 3000 to 3800 RPM

1000KM’s to 10000KM’s

• Cold: no higher than 2800 RPM till warmed up
• Warm: 3000 to 5100 RPM

Always bear in mind that engine wear is greatest when the engine is cold, so don't push to higher revs until the engine is fully up to temperature. Also be aware the temperature gauge in the Tiguan is the WATER temperature, not the engine oil temperature which takes longer to get up to. Give the engine 5 to 10 minutes worth of normal driving to warm up.
Accelerate and decelerate to put pressure on the rings during running in period. Deceleration and compression/engine braking are good during running in.

Running-in Petrol Engine From owner's manual
Read what the manual says.... then just drive normally.
Babying it will only give you shiny cylinders and oil use later.
Awaiting further contributions

Warming-up Diesel and Petrol engines
In Brad's words: "With any car - Start - drive sedately until warm - resume normal service. You need too warm brakes, bearings, gearbox, etc not just engine."
Recommend reading this thread on warming-up your diesel engine: Warming up a diesel?
Awaiting contributions for petrol engines

Recommended Petrol Engine Fuel:
VW Australia require you to use Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP) with a RON of 98 to keep your warranty valid. DO NOT USE E10 as it's alcohol level is too high and will void your warranty. See this thread on E10 and what petrol to use: E10 unleaded,does it work?

Recommended Oils
TDI Engine Oil: 4.0L VW Approved (VW507.00) example: Penrite Enviro+ 5W30; Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W30
It’s recommended you use VW Genuine, but if you are in a bind use aftermarket 5W30 Synthetic rather than running low on oil.
It is recommended you check your oil level every 2000km's to make sure the level is still good. Do not be alarmed if the Diesel engine uses some oil as this is normal.

Recommended Petrol Engine Oil: VW504.00/507.00 Castrol SLX Proffesional formula 5W30. A less expensive oil option is VW factory approved Penrite Enviro+ 5W30 (VW540.00/507.00).
It’s recommended you use VW Genuine, but if you are in a bind use aftermarket 5W30 rather than running low on oil.

Recommended Manual Transmission oil: Penrite Manual Gear Oil 70 (capacity = 2.3L)
Automatic transmission oil: Fuchs Tital ATF 4400 transmission fluid (4-5L for a service, including dropping the pan, 7L is when you've fitted a brand new torque converter and transmission).
Recommended Front Diff oil (Front bevel box): Penrite Transaxle 75 or Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE SAE 75W-85 (capacity = 0.9L)
Recommended Rear Diff oil (Rear Final Drive): Penrite Transaxle 75 or Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE SAE 75W-85 (capacity = 1.0L)
Haldex: It seems my only option here is to buy the VW Haldex fluid (approx 800ml-850ml)
DIY Tiguan Drivetrain fluid changes thread - http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...es-116142.html

Tyre and Wheels
Tyre pressure recommended: 35PSI/36PSI
Measure tyre pressure when the tyre is cold/not been driven yet. Pressure will rise when tyres heat up. With heavier loads you should put the pressure up a few PSI.

A general rule of thumb for tyre pressure is to look up the maximum recommended pressure for your specific tyre (should be somewhere on the tyre wall) and subtract 10% from that. So if the tyre's max pressure is 40psi, then as a guide inflate it to 36psi (40-4psi).

For those with the Off-road technology, the low tyre pressure sensor actually uses the rotation speed of the wheel to determine circumference in order to determine whether pressure has fallen. It has to be around 7PSI different to the other wheels to be picked up by system and set off the alarm.

Wheel nut tightness: 120NM of Torque
Good tyre repair/replacement workshops will tighten your wheel nuts with a Torque Wrench in diagonal patern to make sure they are tight enough, but not over tightened. If you see them just using the rattle gun it’s advisable to ask them to loosen the nuts again and hand tighten them using a Torque Wrench. This will save you a lot of frustration if you need to change the tyre.

Wheel and Tyre size Graphic Calculator

OEM wheel specs:
16" rims: 16x6.5" ET33, 5x112 PCD Wheel load 625kg
17" rims: 17x7" ET43
18" rims: 18x7"
19" rims: 19x9"

Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Center Bore: 57.1
Hardware:14x1.50 Bolt
Offset: 34-42mm

Tyres fitment option
16 inch - 225/65-16
17 inch - 235/55-17
18 inch - 235/50-18
19 inch - 235/45-19
20 inch - 255/35-20 (ET35)

See this thread for wheel options and details: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...054#post378054

Interior Care
Leather protection – do not spray a sealer on the leather as not allowing them to breathe will reduce the life of your leather (that equals cracking). Any good aftermarket leather cleaner followed by conditioner twice a year will see your seats looking great and feeling new. Your seats will need cleaning because sweat, dust and spills are a fact of life. See the Car Care Products video on leather protection here

Carpet treatment – Dealers offer this for $300 to protect your carpets and plastic. 3M Scotchguard is probably your best bet for this and you can do it yourself.

Exterior care
Paint protection –Volkswagen recommend you wax your vehicle every 6 months. The dealer’s high quality paint protection for around the $1000 mark is really a $20 bottle of paint sealant applied by machine. Depending on who does the job could make your vehicle look fantastic for the first few washes or wreck your paint work with swirl marks. Most paint protection products need to be reapplied at the 12 month period. No matter what you apply to your finish it will wear away with washing and time so keeping it covered with a good quality wax is the best way to go. If you need a paint protection then look up the blokes who do it for a living, they take pride in their job and will advise you on your individual needs, also at a reasonable price.

Windscreen washer additive VW Part No: G 052 164 M2

Cleaning vehicle
See the Care Care Products video library thread in the Detailing section of the forum: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...ad.php?t=34332
These are great quick and easy video's on how to do the job properly!

Recommended reading:
DMS_Dan's post in the "Washing a new car's paintjob" post on VWWatercooled Forums
Mytreg forums "How to car care guide"

Summary:

1. Snow Foam Application using Pressure Washer to remove easy dirt
2. Two bucket method washing down using pile mitt (not sponge)
3. Top-down rinse
4. Clay bar detailing to remove bonded contaminants
5. Polishing the vehicle
6. Glazing
7. Sealant for mirror-like wet finish
8. Wax/Last stage protection

There is a lot of detail in the thread to make sure your vehicle looks showroom clean.

[Arctra]

Offroading
Recommended reading: Offroading section of MyTiguan Owners Forums
Summary:
When you are on sealed roads: Turn ESP ON and Offroad Technology OFF.
When on unsealed roads: Turn ESP ON and Offroad Technology ON.
When on sand: Turn ESP OFF and Offroad Technology ON.
There are plenty of caveats and justifications for using these settings, so if you are going to take your Tig offroad be sure to read the posts in the forum. The member named jjj appears to be the pioneer of pushing the envelope with the Tiguan, so pay attention to his posts.

Aftermarket Audio/Satnav/DVD Headunit

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...8&postcount=29

You cannot get a truly comparable unit installed and fully operational cheaper than the factory installed (purchased with the car) RNS510 particularly when you take the full capabilities of the RNS into account (30 gig hard drive, parking sensor display, rear camera, high quality touch screen etc etc).

Adding the RNS 510 afterwards is easy enough but if you want the integrated camera and optical parking system (OPS) it's best to order it with the car. Reverse sensors can also be added later, however to do it properly you require a new bumper, at the factory they just pick the bumper with the holes in so the extra cost is minimal. To fit factory Optical Parking System (OPS) after delivery will cost around $2000, whereas as a factory option it's ~$750.

The camera is a similar deal, the extra cost is minimal at time of order and it's over double to have it fitted later.

There's no aftermarket unit that offers the integration and finish of the factory setup and you could spend a lot on aftermarket equipment trying. The most popular options to date has been the Auspack Electonics AVC9000-1, otherwise known as the Waywell WD6050. See this thread for details: http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...ghlight=wd6050

Update: The Zenec ZE-NC2010 unit is compatible with the Tig and provides extra options over the RNS510 OEM unit. It can be sourced for just over approximately $1700 on ebay. It runs Igo8 software which allows easy map updates and doesn't require a 1K+ cost to purchase map dvd's. See http://www.zenec.com/index.php?L=1&id=335 for details.

There is a great illustrated guide on how to replace the headunit available here: http://jamaicastore.com/images/RNS_5...tion_Guide.pdf

[Transporter]

Brake pads front (ATE 13.0460-7242.2)
Thickness: 14mm (not incl. metal backing)
Min th. 2mm
Brake disc front (ATE 24.0125-0158.1)
Diameter: 312mm Vented
Finish: High-carbon
Brake disc thickness: 25mm
Minimum thickness: 22mm
Height: 49.9mm
Centering diameter: 65mm
Inner diameter: 146mm

Brake pads rear NOT DIY Friendly!
You will need VCDS to replace pads and perform basic setting (electric parking brake) and the proper power supply that will not demage the car's electronics. The mistakes during the pads replacent could be expensive.

Bendix DB1865 GCT (aftermarket alternative)
Thickness: 11mm (not incl. metal backing)
Min. th. 2mm
Brake disc rear (ATE 24.0112-0169.1)
Diameter: 286mm Solid
Surface coated
Brake disc thickness: 12mm
Minimum thickness: 10mm
Height: 48.6 mm
Centering diameter: 65mm
Inner diameter: 159mm

Only use new brake fluid (VW part no. B 000 750) conforming to VW standard VW 501 14

[Transporter]

Battery

Dimensions

Battery Dimensions VW TIGUAN and GOLF V

2010 TIGUAN TDI AUTO

5K0 915 105 E VARTA 61Ah 540CCA (242mm x 175mm x 190mm)

GTI (Golf V)

(Lenth x Width x Height)

563 400 061 3162 SILVER dynamic 63 610 (242mm x 175mm x 190mm)
577 400 078 3162 SILVER dynamic 77 780 (278mm x 175mm x 190mm)
560 408 054 3132 BLUE dynamic 60 540 (242mm x 175mm x 190mm)
574 012 068 3132 BLUE dynamic 74 680 (278mm x 175mm x 190mm)

TDI (Golf V)

577 400 078 3162 SILVER dynamic 77 780 (278mm x 175mm x 190mm)
585 200 080 3162 SILVER dynamic 85 800 (315mm x 175mm x 175mm)
574 012 068 3132 BLUE dynamic 74 680 (278mm x 175mm x 190mm)
580 406 074 3132 BLUE dynamic 80 740 (315mm x 175mm x 175mm)

Battery for the key remote is a CR2032 — you'll find one in almost every desktop computer and they're readily available.

How to manualy open your VW with hidden key hole

How to replace battery in VW key

[jfranek]

From my Tiguan 2010 Manual:

The engine needs to be run in during the first 1500 km.

Up to 1000 km -
- Do not drive faster than three quarters of top speed.
- Do not use full throttle.
- Avoid high engine speeds.
- Do not tow a trailer.

From 1000 to 1500 km -
- Speeds can be gradually increased to the maximum road speed or engine speed (rpm).

During its first few hours of running, the internal friction in the engine is greater than later on when all the moving parts have bedded down.

For the sake of the environment -
If the engine is run in gently, the life of the engine will be increased and its oil consumption reduced.


Running in tyres and brake pads (extract) -

New tyres should be run in carefully in the first 500 km. New brake pads should be run in carefully in the first 200 to 300 km.

Warning - New tyres and new brake pads will not initially have optimal grip and friction.

Joe

[jfranek]

The manual says use the fuel as per the fuel cap sticker.
The sticker says -

"Super Unleaded minimum 95 RON Super Premium"

I am not quite sure if all 95 octane fuels available at Australian pumps satisfy this requirement.

The Manual further says -

You may use petrol with a higher octane number than the one recommended for your engine. However this has no advantage in terms of fuel consumption and engine power.

This is contrary to VW Customer Service recommendation (email) who claims that 98RON will "always" give better economy and performance.

If anybody is aware of scientific tests, please let us know.

The Manual further recommends a low sulphur or sulphur free petrol for FSI engines. This reduces petrol consumption.

The Manual recommends using good quality petrol containing additives, or adding additives to petrol without them. VW additives are preferred.

My observation:
How would the average mum and dad know what various petrols at Australian pumps contain and don't contain??

If anybody knows which 95 or 98 octane petrol in Australia is suphur free - please let us know.

Josef

[Arctra]

According to CarService.com.au Service Guide at January 2010, you can expect to pay the following for your Tiguan services:



http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...=0&output=html

NOTE: The prices listed below are indicative prices only and we can not guarantee that the price displayed will be the same as the price quoted by the service centre. Please ensure you clarify all costs with your nominated service centre prior to booking.

[Transporter]

Adaptive chassis control.

Aftermarket driving lights.

Aftermarket reversing camera.

Difference between 125TSI and 147TSI

Dos and don'ts to the diesel engine.

H&R springs height

How to repair the rear cup holders? by borbor13

Installing sound system. by Suparockin

Ipod and no MDI?

Off Road Tyres

Question about the 4WD system in Tiguan

Recalls thread

Reverse Camera Coding using VCDS

Roof rack cross bars.

Security PIN for head unit.

Sensitive brakes

Soft Roading Video

Suspensions Mods.

Tiguan Tunning Starts by Sharkie

Tow bar Question.
Tow bar Heyman Reese
Tow capability

Tyres What did you get? with your new Tiguan

Vag-com tweaks.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...ers-64213.html

[Transporter]

http://www.volkswagen.de/etc/mediali...n2009_S_en.pdf

Haldex magazine

Aftermarket SatNav by: http://www.rosenentertainment.com/

RNS510 Installation guide

Youtube Video for RCD/RNS510

RCD510 user manual

Video interface for RCD510

Fiscon BlueTooth kit intallation instruction

Sidesteps Installation Instructions

Decoding Vehicle Sticker

Electro-mechanical Parking Brake Self Study

[Transporter]

Engine Fault Workshop! on display!

Today was driving to work and I heard a beep, then "Engine Fault Workshop!" showed on the MFD as well the engine warning lamp on the dashboard.
I have a VW Jetta 2010 (TDI), would be intersted to hear what your thoughts are.
Car is 6 months old and has done 7,000km.
Thanks,
Simon.

more details

engine was and still seems to be running fine, regular idle, not jumping, etc
i mainly do a trip of 30mins with a variation in speeds from 60-80km, last week did a 600km highway run, so the dpf should be clean.
message displays, then goes away and returns randomly, even reappeared after turn off and sit for several hours.

FIX

Just got home from the dealer, they have kept my car and put me in a free loan car.
Problem is 'exhaust pressure sensor' i believe is what they said, should be fixed today.
I will get the papers, so if the fault re-appears I can get it fixed again.

TDI G450 sensor fault in memory...10 mins to check and 10 mins to replace G450, adapt new sensor to ECU, roadtest, all good!

faults related to the Vacuum Brake Booster.

Fault:

Am at Gold Coast on holidays and about to drive back home.
Yesterday arvo, out for a last bit of shopping and suddenly the brakes are HARD...then soft (normal) .
Straight to mechanicwith VagCom...no faults detected. Rang local service...can you leave it with us tomorrow, we're really busy and all or technicians have gone for the day...
Lastly, I rang VW Assist...they were great!
Car's being picked up this morning, taken to dealer and, if unable to be fixed today, they'll provide rental vehicle, accommodation and taxi fares if required.
Tig will be fixed locally and transported back home.

Still, I'd rather be driving the Tig!

Fix reported:

Turned out to be one of the vacuum hoses was twisted.

Vibration from front or rear at speeds above 60km/ and higher

I have started having problems in my tiguan over the last few thousand kms. (now done 24,000 in total).

After going over 100 km/h, the car starts to vibrate, seemingly starting from the rear, and then the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. This gets worse and continues past the legal road speeds ...

POSSIBLE CAUSE
The plastic hub locater rings that have worn away and caused the problem.

FIX

Well after all this time, I have just heard back from the shop.

They have sent the wheels for an independent test at another machine shop who have tested the machining of the holes with a fine laser guided 100th machine...etc...so they say...

They reckon that three of the holes in diff wheels were out by a few mms which has caused this pain-in-the-butt issue!!!!!!!

The transmission sometimes thuds when down changing (usually from 2nd to 1st gear)

Hi,
Not sure if anyone else had the same problem. While driving tig when it's cold I noted my car will jump when I hit break. The jump normally happen when the car nearly comes to fully stop. The problem seems to go away after the car warm up. Is this normal or there is some part need to be checked?
Your assistance is appreciated.

Thanks

Possible explanation

If you mean the transmission sometimes thuds when down changing (usually from 2nd to 1st gear) my 147 does it intermittently. Mine does it when the engine/transmission is hot or cold, more so when I'm quickly decelerating (like at traffic lights).

Everyone is more than welcome to post in this thread, when experiencing a fault with the Tiguan. Keep it short and informative.

Oil leak from Transfer case (Bevel Gearbox) oil seal (axle seal).
VWVortex.com - Tiguan 20k Service: Trans Leak Found - Dealear ignored......
Apparently there is the TSB for it.

Fault
Exhaust warning light ON (Not exactly Tiguan but the same engine as in Tiguan)

2010 MK6 Golf 103TDI fault code P261A.

Fault Code: P261A
Category: Powertrain
Definition: Coolant Pump "B" Control Circuit/Open

Fix
There is a bulletin out on this.
It is rectified by a replacement auxillary coolant pump.

Fault
EPC+Fault in catalytic converter