Tigger73's 125TSI Tiguan Build Thread

[tigger73]

Thanks for this link and for sharing. Great idea and good work.

I just don't understand though; how when an owner can do this .... why can't VW engineer it that way out of the factory? Even if the full size cost more at least have it available.

But then it would take all the satisfaction out of working on your own car to make it better

...and probably bump up the price too.

[Ralphs]

But then it would take all the satisfaction out of working on your own car to make it better

...and probably bump up the price too.

Perhaps I wasn't clear ..... the Tig is the wife's car.

You are assuming that I can wield those power tools in my shed to do something useful! Even my wife doesn't expect I can do anything useful with them, in fact if I start one up she get nervous!

[tigger73]

Perhaps I wasn't clear ..... the Tig is the wife's car.

You are assuming that I can wield those power tools in my shed to do something useful! Even my wife doesn't expect I can do anything useful with them, in fact if I start one up she get nervous!

Yes I can see the issue with you getting out power tools. Bad enough to work on your own car let alone getting let loose on your wifes pride and joy!!!

Agree it would be useful for VW to have the option to fit a full-size spare. All it requires is a different polystyrene insert around the spare wheel and a thinner moulding for the boot floor so that it fits flush with the boot lip.

[jctee]

]If you are in a hurry to restrain a full size spare - Bunnings have the bolt required - M8x1.25 x 100mm. They even have a M8x1.25 "test" nut where you can check your original spare "hold down" bolt.
Add a couple of washers, spring washer, a nut for a spacer - only needs a spanner to tighten.
If there is carpet/matting/rubber under the spare, you may not need the nut for a spacer.
My spare is a Hankook Dynapro 215/65 R16 on a "San Francisco" VW alloy.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8820[/ATTACH Attachment 8821

[Ralphs]

Thanks for that, I will go down to Bunnings.

[Bambazonke]

You could invest in a puncture repair kit....

Attachment 8815

All CX5s have a space saver.

I have one of these in my BMW which has RFT's It is really handy as when you get a puncture you can "limp" to the nearest garage fix your puncture and be on your way again without having to replace the tyre which the dealer in most cases insists you do. Definitely recommend this even if you live in the city. One DIY repair and it has paid for itself!

[brad]

I have one of these in my BMW which has RFT's It is really handy as when you get a puncture you can "limp" to the nearest garage fix your puncture and be on your way again without having to replace the tyre which the dealer in most cases insists you do. Definitely recommend this even if you live in the city. One repair and it has paid for itself!

Thats a really bad idea for a RFT unless your limping is done at walking pace & for an extremely short distance (<1000m).

If you drive on a flat tyre at a greater than running pace for too long you'll get internal degradation of the sidewall (RFT or convential - doesn't matter which). The internals need to be inspected. You can usually tell if there's an issue because the carcass will be full of fresh rubber dust & there may be some delamination of the sidewall (internally). RFTs has a stronger sidewall construction & the damage may not be apparent to the naked eye.

Also, unless the rules have changed (probably have), those dog-turd repairs were made illegal about 15 years back. This was partly to encourage use of a mushroom patch which forces you to inspect the internals of the tyre & also because it's quite possible for the steel belts in the tyre to cut through the dog-turd & cause a sudden loss of pressure. One of the many advantages of a tubeless tyre is to (hopefully) allow a gradual loss of pressure. A mushroom repair is doubly safe as it has the stem through the actual hole & also the large patch.

Having said all that, I still keep dog-turds with my spare as they are a great temporary repair. Like most things, if you are aware of the risks you will stay alert to any changes in the characteristics of the vehicle.

regarding RFTs & BMWs. Dummest idea ever for a "driving machine". Get rid of them & go to conventional tyres & buy a spacesaver & BMW tyre change kit.

[Diesel_vert]

Runflat tyres can be driven with zero pressure at a speed not exceeding 80 km/h or 50 mph for a specified distance, as determined by the vehicle manufacturer (otherwise, 80 km or 50 miles should be considered the maximum distance).

As per the design brief, structual integrity is of course maintained for the specified distance, but as brad mentions, it will still compromise the service life of the runflat tyre and may become irreparably damaged if continuously driven in this manner.

A quick and temporary repair would be useful in so far as getting the vehicle to the garage of choice, with an aim to preserving the punctured runflat tyre for continued service - but only after it has been dismounted, thoroughly inspected and properly repaired.

regarding RFTs & BMWs. Dummest idea ever for a "driving machine".

Probably why the folks who design the M models specify their cars with standard tyres.

[Ramee]

Hey Tigger, how is Haldex install going? Did you managed to install it ?

[tigger73]

Hey Tigger, how is Haldex install going? Did you managed to install it ?

Haven't installed it yet. I have a service due shortly and pre-warranty end inspection. So I figured that I may just get it done at the same time. That way I don't have to buy tools that I'm only going to use once.


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