Tigger73's 125TSI Tiguan Build Thread

[aussietig]

I'll have to give that a try. There's a few settings that I haven't worked out yet.

Yep and kindly report back.

I remember my mk5 GTI use to hit 20 PSI with a Superchips Stage 1 flash (measured with a New South gauge).

[Bambazonke]

i note this little box of tricks can also activate one touch closing in addition to mirror lowering in reverse. Has anyone managed to do this using VCDS? It used to be possible in the pre 2010 models that had the old module 46 at Byte 6 bit 6

[tigger73]

i note this little box of tricks can also activate one touch closing in addition to mirror lowering in reverse. Has anyone managed to do this using VCDS? It used to be possible in the pre 2010 models that had the old module 46 at Byte 6 bit 6

Yes I've got one-touch closing on mine - though it's activated through Auto-Polar FIS+.

Some of these options which are enabled through FIS+ are just VCDS settings so it may well be possible. Though sometimes the FIS+ will provide additional functionality to enable the function (e.g mirror dipping).

[tigger73]

Yep and kindly report back.

I remember my mk5 GTI use to hit 20 PSI with a Superchips Stage 1 flash (measured with a New South gauge).

OK so the update on boost pressure is that in the latest release (0.3.2) they've increase the resolution to 0.1 PSI.

Here's the full details on boost pressure - original post is here: INFO : Some detailed info about "TURBO PRESSURE" parameter (Read this before ask)

TURBO PRESSURE parameter (extended info)


How to configure you PolarFIS to correctly read turbo pressure

To read turbo pressure, normally it is not necessary to configure anything in your PolarFIS unit.
There is a configuration inside the box that automatically selects the best option to read turbo pressure.
However, there's a few models which this automatic function doesn't work.
This guide will help you to identify if this is your case.

These are available options in the turbo pressure menu:

- AUTOMATIC : PolarFIS will select the best option for your vehicle automatically. RECOMMENDED !! (by default)
- INFORT X1 : Obtain the turbo pressure from the infotainment bus.
- INFORT X2 : Obtain the turbo pressure from the infotainment bus. The reading is then multiplied by 2 (only vehicles in which the bus shows half pressure).
- DIAGNOSIS : Obtain the turbo pressure from the diagnosis bus, recommended in vehicles that the other options don't work.


What values does the PolarFIS show in my screen ?? I not have idea ...

The value that PolarFIS displays is the result of subtracting the barometric pressure from the boost pressure read from the bus.
This is due to the boost pressure sensor indicating values in absolute pressure (BOOST+BAROMETRIC)

But, sometimes i see negative values, why does this happen??

Normally with the engine at idle there will be a small vacuum in the intake manifold, so reading will be negative (around -5 to -15 mbar or -0.07 to -0.2 PSI). This is normal.
However, in some models there's no negative readings and with engine at idle the reading is 0 mbar or 0 PSI, we can't do anything about that because this reading is done directly from the Diagnostics bus of the engine ecu.

However, a small negative reading as indicated is normal, but if you have a reading less than -100 mbar or -1.4 PSI it means that boost is not reading correctly.

In this case, you must enter into the Polar FIS configuration menu, and select SCREEN->VISUALIZATION->ADVANCED->BOOST OPTIONS and choose the option INFORT. x2.

This is due to pressure read from infotainment bus being divided by 2 in some cars.

If the problem persists or you have no reading of boost pressure, enter in the same menu and choose DIAGNOSTICS option.

[Bambazonke]

I was rather hoping you had done this with VCDS. I suppose i will just have to wait for someone to stumble across it and post it on the forum. I bought my cable second hand so I cannot approach Dana @ ross tech for assistance on this.

This box of tricks must have some memory capacity to retain the settings for the mirror down function to work. At least we know the wiring does not need to be modified.

The new Tiguan has the new door controllers that incorporate the rear door modules as slave modules. I have been playing around with the long coding on the two modules as there are options to turn on the mirror lowering function here as well.. However it appears they do not have the memory capacity to store settings for it to work or maybe i just have not configured it corectly yet

[Transporter]

I bought my cable second hand so I cannot approach Dana @ ross tech for assistance on this.

You can always try, as long as the cable is genuine ross-tech.

[Bambazonke]

The Microcan cable is genuine Have all the original paperwork Previous owner sold his Tiguan and bought a Q5. To get support from Ross Tech I have to re register the cable and pay $99 to enable email support

[Transporter]

The Microcan cable is genuine Have all the original paperwork Previous owner sold his Tiguan and bought a Q5. To get support from Ross Tech I have to re register the cable and pay $99 to enable email support

That's very cheap. Other companies charge much more than that.

[tigger73]

Had some time over Christmas (and a couple of Bunnings vouchers) so I decided to redo the floor in my boot to fit my full-size wheel.

I left the original wheel cut-out and installed a full size spare with Phil G's "special" threaded rod/wing nut/nut:





Cut out a new base in 12mm MDF. I also cut some slots at the back for the "pegs" near the back seat to help it sit flatter:



Cut out wheel cover:



Cut out some 50mm polystyrene to go around wheel:



Last, a layer of 3mm MDF to go across the top to make everything flat:



Finish with auto carpet.



I glued the polystyrene down with contact cement, however it seemed to react/eat away a bit at the polystyrene so next layers I just used some double-sided tape which seemed to work just fine.

Here's a side view of the "sandwich":



Most of the bits I got from my local hardware store, however the 50mm polystyrene was from Clark Rubber.

The only issue (not a major one) with the way I've put it together is that you have to move the rear seats forward a few cm to remove the floor and get to the spare wheel plus anything else stored under there. It's not really a problem as the things I keep under there (tie down straps/rope/etc) only get used every now and then. Also it only takes a few seconds to move the seats.

[desvejk]

I do a lot of camping so I needed to go for a vertical installation of the spare wheel.
It's quite secure with ratchet straps and anchor points above and below the spare.
As you can see in the picture the space saver wheel gives me room for a fridge and some storage.
But it can be done with a full sized wheel.
I'll be buying a full sized wheel that I will attach to the camper trailer.
This will give me two spairs.