Ramee's Tiguan Build Thread 155KW DSG

**team_v** · 14-07-2013, 02:37 PM

Originally Posted by Ramee

It is a good experiment.. But I noticed there is a significant difference at the initial stage of his graphs ( First two seconds period) which could explain the difference we feel. After that I think may be ECU is taking over the control of boost so probably need a new map to capture full potential of the upgrade.

So did you get a re-map after the downpipe was installed?
Also, is that a hotdog centre muffler instead of the oem resonator?

**Ramee** · 14-07-2013, 03:03 PM

Originally Posted by Wynnston

Hmm. Does anyone know if you can do the same (enable line level) for the RNS510?

I think for the RCD it's "VW Sound System" and disable "Monitoring" but I don't have my VCDS on me to check atm.

Hey Wynnston, Yes It will work for RNS510 ... Actually I followed the RNS510 coding for my RCD 510 and it worked !! Original instructions are for RNS510..

Check this out: Volkswagen RNS 510 coding when installing with a factory amplifier | my-gti.com

**Ramee** · 14-07-2013, 03:52 PM

Originally Posted by team_v

So did you get a re-map after the downpipe was installed?
Also, is that a hotdog centre muffler instead of the oem resonator?

I think/hope

APR or any other tuner stage 2 map includes those corrections.. Unfortunately I could not go to get my tune on booked date and now my APR dealer has gone for holidays

Have to wait until he comes back.

I think what you are referring is my hi flow cat

They use a cat with flange so easy assembly and disassembly of the down pipe.
"Hotdog muffler".. that is a new part I learned from you!!

**Ramee** · 15-07-2013, 05:58 AM

I just found out beaurepairs got a nice web app to check wheels and tyres on our Tigs. Car can even be viewed in lowered setting

Link:
Wheel Selector - Match Wheels & Rims to Your Car or Vehicle

**Ramee** · 27-07-2013, 10:16 PM

Finally managed to get stage 2 tune from APR.. All I can say is super nice!!

After tune my CEL is gone and also answered some of my questions. What I was wondering was Stage 2 is just stage 1 map with CEL removed and all the gains comes from the downpipe install. But now I can say by first hand experience, stage 2 map really makes a difference, and I could feel it much more than stage 1 + downpipe. I am looking forward to run some logs and 0 100 runs to see the new improvements. Hopefully car is now in low or mid 5 sec range for 0 to 100.

Also I could get 104 octane map too.. With race fuel it could generate 290 hp at the crank with this map. Love to test it after I get my hands on some race fuel. Next power mod is going to be water meth so I can run this map on 98 fuel when I needed

Water meth can help to cool down the intake Air and increase octane of fuel and my friend running it in his Mini cooper without any issues. Also what I heard is it also eliminate pressure loss of going for larger intercooler.

Tig with its faster brothers

**Toki** · 15-08-2013, 05:39 AM

Congrats for your work!

Could you please tell me how to remove the door sill? Do I need to unscrew something or is it only to pull the trim?

Regards.

**Ramee** · 16-08-2013, 04:45 AM

Originally Posted by Toki

Congrats for your work!

Could you please tell me how to remove the door sill? Do I need to unscrew something or is it only to pull the trim?

Regards.

Thanks. To remove front door sill passenger side you will have to remove the hood opening handle first. There is a small clip hidden in the side of this handle and you can use small screwdriver to pry out the clip. but be careful it is very fragile clip. After that there is a small plastic screw under the handle to remove.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...RELEASE-HANDLE

Then all you have to do is pull like crazy. I suggest start from the middle of the sill. Sill is holding to the car with few metal clips and just grab the sill from the middle and pull upwards until middle clip is unhooked, then work toward rear and then front to unhook all the clips.

Also try to loosen up the plastic cover of middle pillar at the bottom it will help when removing rear door sill and also putting everything back.

**Toki** · 16-08-2013, 05:28 AM

Thanks for the great explanation, but I forgot that in Australia you drive on the right side of the car...

I'm in Europe, so I drive on the left and I've to remove the other door sill that you've explained, so to recap I don't have to remove the hood handle, do you know what change?

Cheers.

**Ramee** · 17-08-2013, 06:09 PM

Originally Posted by Toki

Thanks for the great explanation, but I forgot that in Australia you drive on the right side of the car...

I'm in Europe, so I drive on the left and I've to remove the other door sill that you've explained, so to recap I don't have to remove the hood handle, do you know what change?

Cheers.

Ah .. I think in that case all you have to do is pull the sill out

**Ramee** · 21-08-2013, 11:12 PM

After doing all these performance mods to the Tig, one thing troubled my mind was to find a way to actually measure the real world performance of the vehicle. I thought measuring 0 to 100 time and in gear acceleration (rolling acceleration) would be a better way to measure the performance gain. So to measure these values I fiddled with many phone apps , VCDS etc etc and values provided by these methods was bit unreliable and suspicious. So I finally decided invest for a real performance measuring device ( Racelogic performance box).

Got this today afternoon !

Did couple of test runs,

Trial run..

Really went for it ..( Launch control / DSG)