New member needing some assistance please

[Peedee61]

Hi people I have been slugging away at our tiggy for 9 weeks now I will give the full story below I was leaving the local shopping centre I got in the car started moving got a bout 5 meters and stalled (strange usually no issue owned car for 5 years)
frayed serpentine belt
found seized a/c compressor
got replacement compressor still no start
checked timing slightly out so reset came close to starting but not quite ( did head gasket 18 months ago and found factory timing points did not work had to go off painted dots on crank cam and high pressure pump)
adjusted timing a tooth at a time one way then another (winding motor over manually with a socket after every adjustment)
then found the cam trigger plate had sheared its key off fixed it by drilling and tapping for the fittment of a grub screw
sometimes closer to a start than others
eventually pulled head found all 8 exhaust rockers cracked
no valve damage
new rockers and lifters from a place in UK 14 days later 1 of each arrived supposedly lost in mail ( thought would be 1 package)
reordered off another UK company in my hand in 4 days
replaced rockers and lifters after cleaning top of head and running a magnet into all the crevices and passages in top of head, replaced head on motor
re timed engine wound over manually nearly started
moved timing 1 tooth, wound over again then tried starting nearly there almost 10 to 15 seconds running on own
adjusted another tooth wound by hand locked at 0.5 turn wound back set timing back a tooth, wound 0.5 turn locked again
tried multiple combinations of cam tooth positions
long story shortened a single needle roller bearing from broken rocker had found its way into cylinder 2 intake port basically pounded head valves and piston
I bought a used motor with 70000 less klm on it have changed the engine fitted my exhaust manifold and throttle body plus my injectors as I know the ecu has to know their numbers, I initially left the wiring harness that came on the new engine on as I thought it would be just as easy, found that it was short 2 plugs, after attempting to start, so replaced with my original loom, primed fuel system, and attempted to start it no start, just cranks, I have the above code po32200 which is crankshaft / camshaft sensor no communication so I pulled the front off again changed sensors for my original sensors and I’m still getting the code even when I clear it as soon as I attempt to start it it comes back
I also get the code p246e00 which is the exhaust gas temperature sensor, which I have ordered a new one of, I’m over spending money and every day almost for 9 weeks on this car, so I’m reaching out for any ideas that I may have missed
sorry for the long and rambling post


Thank You in advance

[MIG]

Was the used motor the same engine code and year?

Have you checked the wiring diagrams and tested if you have the correct powers and grounds at the cam and crankshaft sensors?

I would check all the basics first; with the "exhaust gas temperature sensor" error, too, it sounds like a shared ground or reference voltage may have been missed in your harness swap.

[Peedee61]

Hi yes the used motor is same code as the original being a cbab series common rail, I did replace the supplied harness with my own as there were a couple of plugs I could not find on the supplied harness,
I have difficulty following the wiring diagrams as I’m used to seeing it flow from one section to another in that seeing a continuation from say the ecu to the crank shaft sensor instead of how it is in the Vw one where it just gives a wire number then have to scroll through to find where it comes in again
i did have one issue that I’m unsure of and that is a heavy brown wire that comes out of the loom near the earth point on the chassis rail where the gearbox/ engine mount earths on the left side, I’m unsure if this heavy brown wire is an earth or a positive, it would be a stretch for it to make it to the fuse box mounting points for positive and I have mounted it as an earth as I do not want to put power to it and risk blowing the ecu

[MIG]

The numbers on the wiring diagram match up with the legend at the bottom of each page.
Here is a great guide https://f01.justanswer.com/MASTEROFM...wiring.qxd.pdf


In terms of testing your sensor wiring, ScannerDanner has a really good educational series on YouTube.
youtube.com/watch?v=TXKf96wqaoU


The brown wire does sound like a harness ground, but again I would be checking the ground points in the service manual.

If you don't have the factory guides and wiring diagrams, I recommend the following

erWin has the manuals, wiring diagrams and TPIs, which costs ~7 euro for an hour.
Official Factory Repair Information - Ross-Tech Wiki

erWin checklist (suggested):
- Subscription to erWin Factory Repair Manuals
- Vehicle VIN number
- Some hard drive space
- I use a 'print to pdf' or CutePDF Writer

The site can be hard to navigate but has tons of info, download it all

[Peedee61]

Thank you I found the Ross tech videos on how to read the diagrams, and have also screen shot from their forum and printed the 19 pages so I could study them, the heavy brown wire is definitely a ground according to the manual I have which if I recall correctly I gat about 4 years ago and is a translation from Russian
Most of what I can see from the wiring is that I need to go through and double check all my fuses as well as the looked ok but I will put a multi meter on them just to make sure, as I do recall when working with the supplied harness I plugged the pressure sensor in the dpf plug into the fuel secondary fuel pump and had to straighten pins when putting my original harness back on, so I might have blown some fuses but I do know I have fuel up at the high pressure pump, as I checked the fine filters in them today as an idea