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Thread: Engine oil

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainBikeMike View Post
    Hey guys,

    Been burning a bit oil since I got the car 3 months ago. So far I've filled an extra 4L in to it of Penrite Enviro+ 5W30. Its had about 5 long hard drives in that time. The oil light only came on once ages ago, and the rest of the times I just checked, it was at minimum so I filled it to max.... Anything suss? No oil in the driveway...

    I saw this below on sale at Supercheap today with their Bathurst promotion. Has anyone used it and is it worth it considering ebay has the Penrite Enviro+ 5W30 for $65?

    Attachment 5445
    Does it have a VW Approval sticker on it???? I doubt it at that price
    That package looks like its trying to imitate Penrite when its called Chickasaw

    As Transporter says you can use Penrite Enviro + 5w-40 502/505 in a Petrol engine. Which is not the same as 5w-30 504/507 which must be used in an engine with a DPF ( Diesel)

    I wouldn't use ANY oil which is not VW approved. I bought Enviro+ 5w-30 at $69 from Repco with a RACQ membership as it can be up to $90 RRP
    Supercrap have Shell ULtra EXTRA 5w-30 504/507 for $67.49 in that catalogue That is an approved oil.

    If you are using it now keep using it Good oil is cheaper than a new motor. Also if you use unapproved oil and then go to Skoda growling about excessive consumption they may not be very sympathetic

    The pictured stuff wont be any good for your car at that price or in fact at any price.

    Cant understand why people would buy a good car and then cut corners with cheap oil
    Last edited by Hillbilly; 17-09-2013 at 09:21 PM.
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  2. #52
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    i am not sure if anyone has a thought why vw recommends the vw504.00 oil.

    anyone with the right technical knowledge should correct me as below is 100% my non technical imagination

    with the direct injection engine, there is no fuel sprayed (as opposed to engines with port injectors) to wash the intake valves. yet, the intake valves do get in contact with oil via the blow by.

    my hypothesis:

    the vw504.00 approved oil supposedly has less tendency to become sludge. but over time and use, closer to the end of its 15,000km interval, it has accumulated enough contamination and lost its detergent element, hence it would turn into sludge easier (when caked in, it is called carbon build up).

    the non504.00 oil however, would turn into sludge quicker, say near the end of its 7,500km use.

    that's probably why the manual says 7,500km interval for vw502.00 oil and 15,000km for vw504.00 oil (per my 147TSI Tig and Mk6 GTI manual books).

    so, the issue is still mainly on CARBON BUILD UP trouble, but reduced by using vw504.00 oil.
    Last edited by nat225; 17-09-2013 at 09:48 PM.
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by nat225 View Post
    i am not sure if anyone has a thought why vw recommends the vw504.00 oil.

    anyone with the right technical knowledge should correct me as below is 100% my non technical imagination

    with the direct injection engine, there is no fuel sprayed (as opposed to engines with port injectors) to wash the intake valves. yet, the intake valves do get in contact with oil via the blow by.

    my hypothesis:

    the vw504.00 approved oil supposedly has less tendency to become sludge. but over time and use, closer to the end of its 15,000km interval, it has accumulated enough contamination and lost its detergent element, hence it would turn into sludge easier (when caked in, it is called carbon build up).

    the non504.00 oil however, would turn into sludge quicker, say near the end of its 7,500km use.

    that's probably why the manual says 7,500km interval for vw502.00 oil and 15,000km for vw504.00 oil (per my 147TSI Tig and Mk6 GTI manual books).

    so, the issue is still mainly on CARBON BUILD UP trouble, but reduced by using vw504.00 oil.
    If this is correct, it would be worth the 20-30% extra cost of the 504... At this rate it looks like the car will drink $150-200 of oil a year! :/
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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hillbilly View Post
    Cant understand why people would buy a good car and then cut corners with cheap oil
    I agree, but very often (almost always) manufacturers allow that in the specs, where they will say that the engine is capable of being serviced with the lower grade oil, just to appeal to the fleet buyers. Very similar to the fuel specifications.

  5. #55
    Join Date
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    Just a bit of an observation:

    I've tried the Shell, the Castrol, & the Penrite approved oils in my car, only using one or the other due to availability & they all seem to run at 100 to 103 on the temp display on the MFD.

    Independent mechanic at the last service used the Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro C3 & the oil temp now sits between 97 & 100, or around 3 degrees cooler...

    Just found it interestin' !
    Current: MY18 TRANSPORTER CrewVan, Indium Grey
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainBikeMike View Post
    If this is correct, it would be worth the 20-30% extra cost of the 504... At this rate it looks like the car will drink $150-200 of oil a year! :/
    The 504/507 as I understand it is a low ash oil and therefore is suitable for DIESEL engines with a DPF. Oils with a higher ash content will ruin your DPF and cost $4000 to replace it

    502/505 is suitable for petrol engines on 15000k or 12 month intervals which our petrol Polo gets serviced at.

    504/507 is also for longlife service in petrol engines but this is not practiced in Australia.

    I use 504/507 in both as its easier to have one oil in the garage and as both use 4 L I get a full top up every 4 services

    Both mine run at 90C on the gauge all day every day.
    Last edited by Hillbilly; 01-03-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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