"Crunch" goes the gearbox

[Transporter]

If I can find a VCDS cable today to scan, will it affect what the dealer can do when they scan on Monday?

It will not, but.
Not just to you mate, also to everyone who scans their car for the fault codes before going to the dealer or mechanic: Always leave the codes there, do not reset the codes! So, the dealer has a chance to see what was happening and conditions when the codes were logged (the freeze frames and so on).

[Arctra]

OK, so an update. Yesterday I decided to take a quick trip down to Bunnings to get a hex-socket set in case I needed to remove my bash plate to investigate my problem. On the trip to Bunnings the gears worked great, but the dash warning lights were still lit. When I got back in the car at Bunnings to come home, I started the car and..... HAZZZZAAAAH! No more warning lights. Everything is back to normal. Very strange.

I've just come from the dealer who gave it a quick scan for me. They basically don't know what caused it, but think it may have been an earthing problem somewhere that caused a canbus communication problem. They've cleared the codes and told me that if it happens again, don't re-start the car - just get it towed and they'll look at it again. Apparently starting/stopping and removing the key resets some setting too which makes it more difficult to diagnose.

So it seems I just need to drive as normal and hope nothing happens again. Pretty concerning, but what do you do?

[team_v]

That is a bit odd.
At least the lights are now off so that is probably a good sign.

Just a bit worrisome that it can break and then fix itself and the dealer is none the wise about what happened.
That is the main reason i am against auto boxes.

At least yours is driveable again though

[Pullstarter]

Fingers crossed it's all good Arctra, I'm sure it will be.

[Mainne]

Hi Actra - any updates?

Hope all is well!

[Arctra]

Yeah, took it to the dealer and they did a scan and check on it. Ended up saying that if anything, it's an intermittent or one-off issue. Just the comms between engine, gearbox, ABS, etc had an issue, and now they are all back in sync. If it happens again I must not re-start the engine, but get it towed back to them immediately so they can check it. Because I re-started the vehicle several times without the error re-occuring, the vehicle turned off the warning lights etc. The errors still showed up in the diagnostic though.

I have driven a couple hundred km's since the incident now and all seems well, so hopefully it was just a random one-off. Though I have read on MyTiguan forums of someone else getting stuck in 3rd gear while they were driving. They mentioned similar symptoms to me. After pulling over and restarting their problem disappeared too. See their thread here: Problems come in 3's. - myTiguan Forum

02 November 2009: Having started the car and joined 10 minutes of nose to tail traffic the automatic gearbox became stuck in 3rd gear. I was fortunate enough to get off the main road and moved the selector into 'P'. It moved in okay but as you went through Reverse you felt as thought the clutch wasn't releasing as there was a slight clunk. I turned off the ingnition and restarted the car. There was a reassuring 'Click' from the gearbox and all was okay - but why the fault? Car is booked into dealers in a week to have a look. Have covered 300 miles since and all seems fine.

10 November 2009: Computer recorded the fault but after a test drive they could find nothing wrong and as such have reset the gearbox. They have said that if the problem reoccurs to contact them.

29 April 2010: The gearbox (touch-wood) has been fault free since this incedent last year so must assume it was just having an off day.

Guess I just have to wait and see if it ever happens again.

[Bayman]

I'm sorry to hear that mate. Was the car parked on the level surface or was it very steep on? And just a silly question; when you normally park, do you put it in the N first, than switch the engine OFF, put the hand brake ON and with the foot OFF the brake pedal shift in P and then remove the key from the ignition.
Also it would be worthwhile to have it scanned with VCDS before you go to the dealer. I hope it is nothing major.

Interesting you say these procedures Transporter! I had a Ford Telstar with a V6 and 4 spd auto. It would always crunch putting it in Park after around 2 years old so to get around this I would put it in "N" turn the motor off and Park brake it, then put it in Park. What is the best procedure to follow here? I do notice a resistance placing My Tiguan in Park sometimes although I try to park brake it first. I may just go back to my old ways. I'd guess the new model with DSG has no issue in this procedure regard?

[Transporter]

Interesting you say these procedures Transporter! I had a Ford Telstar with a V6 and 4 spd auto. It would always crunch putting it in Park after around 2 years old so to get around this I would put it in "N" turn the motor off and Park brake it, then put it in Park. What is the best procedure to follow here? I do notice a resistance placing My Tiguan in Park sometimes although I try to park brake it first. I may just go back to my old ways. I'd guess the new model with DSG has no issue in this procedure regard?

That works well in our Tiguan as well. Important part is to have the foot of the brake pedal.

[Bayman]

That works well in our Tiguan as well. Important part is to have the foot of the brake pedal.

I wonder what the technical reason is for this. I would have thought the torque convertor has no power to it with engine off hence no clash of gears/holding pins for Park. I'll check see if the manual states a preferred method - gee back to basics here. I remember years ago some friend telling me of some car that you could put the T bar into reverse at 60km/h and it would do nothing. One would hope the electronics were smart enough to overide stupidity these days.