Adding line convertors to RNS-510?

[Naresh]

Hi has anyone upgraded their sound system by using line convertors to an amp which then powers all the door speakers? I want to know if it impacts on the audible warnings you get from the parking sensors and other notifications such as navigation announcuments. At present I think the RNS-510 outputs all those sounds from the door speakers but I'm not sure if this all remain unchanged and working as before if I add the line-out convertor.

My plan is to upgrade all the speakers, using the existing speaker cabling in place. Then fit a modified stereo harness which takes the speaker level outputs from the RNS-510 to a 5-channel convertor, from which I get the RCS outputs to my amps for the door speakers, and a subwoofer.

[Ramee]

I did this and please check my build thread. Actually there are Amps which can accept speaker level out signals so you may not need to add a line level converter. But I did add a Audison bit ten which act as a line level converter as well as a signal processor, it also wakes up by sensing audio signals coming out from RNS 510 so you don't have to worry about a remote wake up line from RNS 510.( RNS 510 do not have this remote wake up line). Audison bit ten will generate a remote wake up line for the Amp.

When you get a line out converter be careful to find one with the ability to produce this remote wake up signal for the Amp.

Adding a external amp properly with signal sensing wake up / or remote wire with line out converter will not affect the audible warnings because audio system will power up as soon as RNS 510 out put any audio signal. Everything should work as before.

[Naresh]

Thanks Ramee I will check your build thread. I think I did see something but just needed to clarify the things I mentioned above. Can I ask how your intercepted the speaker outputs from the back of the RNS or did you use all new speaker wiring to your speakers? I wanted to use all OEM speaker wiring as it's hard work routing new cables through the doors.

[Ramee]

Thanks Ramee I will check your build thread. I think I did see something but just needed to clarify the things I mentioned above. Can I ask how your intercepted the speaker outputs from the back of the RNS or did you use all new speaker wiring to your speakers? I wanted to use all OEM speaker wiring as it's hard work routing new cables through the doors.

To intercept the signal I used the same method lunchboxgti did. But be careful with the wire harness because some harnesses do not have all wires going through between the main connectors. As you have MIDI/ Bluetooth etc etc try to get a harness all wires populated otherwise some modules will not function properly. I used this cable Blaupunkt European THA PNP Adaptor Cable 7 607 622 016 001 | eBay

LCQ1 is a nice gadget will work well and will cancel out any pre equalisation RNS 510 do to the audio signal.

[LunchboxVRS]

You can do something like this.



I got a eBay cable designed to tap in a Bluetooth kit (the top cable in the first picture is how it comes) and turned the speaker out lines into RCA plugs . (Lower cable and second picture)
Then using VCDS change the stereo setting to "sound system" for amp output.
This allows you to run RCA cables to the amp and eliminates the need for a line out box or a amp that takes speaker line in.

[Naresh]

You can do something like this.



I got a eBay cable designed to tap in a Bluetooth kit (the top cable in the first picture is how it comes) and turned the speaker out lines into RCA plugs . (Lower cable and second picture)
Then using VCDS change the stereo setting to "sound system" for amp output.
This allows you to run RCA cables to the amp and eliminates the need for a line out box or a amp that takes speaker line in.

Thanks for that option, I'm guessing that negates the use of the LOC then? I already bought a "decent" one so want to use that. It also has a remote turn on lead for the amp as recommended by Ramee above so it senses an audio signal then sends the all important 12V to the amps. This is the LOC I have.......

LCQ-1 - Six Channel Line Output Converter with Equalization and AccuBASS

[LunchboxVRS]

you can use the tap wiring I pictured above without the RCA plugs to the same effect without cutting/tapping your oem harness.
Just put the connect in between the unit and harness and cut the speaker wires in the middle. Connect the speaker wires coming out from the tap to your line out and then to the amp.
Then run the speaker wires from the amp back to the other side of the tap. You can pre solder or tap into all the wires before install. And if you sell the car it's just a mater of disconnecting the tap and plugging the unit back in.

[Naresh]

Thanks guys you've both been really helpful. Just need to get myself into gear now and finally get this project off the ground.

[clarkbick]

Sorry to Drum up an old thread, but i'm about to do the same on a 2018 Amarok. I'm looking at getting the Audiocontrol LC7i, which like the above stated doesn't require remote turn on, and will actually turn on an amp also once it senses the headunit is on.

I'm at the point of the harness and I was either going to cut out the factory speaker wires and put plugs so they could be returned to stock, or go down the harness modification path. I would prefer the harness for obvious reasons, but want to ensure it will work with the new ones? I'm sure it's the RNS510, but 2018 version with the memory cars left and right(maps and music).

Curious if anyone has attempted this with the ones ones, and if any differences in wiring?

[Nayz]

Hey buddy.
I'm in the process of an install with an LC7i.
Pretty much completed the install today.
Definitely recommend the LC7i.
I tapped into all the speakers via the factory harness.