Is using twisted pair essential for CAN bus mods?

[elosch]

I am planning to install a reverse PDC with OPS in my Golf VI Variant over the next couple of weekends, and I'm a bit concerned about the wire harness I bought from carsystems.pl not using a twisted pair of wires, where I am to tap into the drive train CANbus.

Now, V.A.G.'s repair manuals are pretty strict about how even for small repairs workshops should always make sure to maintain an even twist of around one twist every 2cm on all CAN wire pairs (See for instance here: Audi Workshop Manuals > A1 > Vehicle electrics > Electrical system; General information > Wiring > Repairing wiring harnesses and electrical connectors > Repairing CAN bus wiring)

Judging by a ton of pictures of wire harnesses I've looked at on Google, however, by this and other retailers of retrofit wiring solutions, it is obviously quite common that CAN wires are just plain untwisted 0.35 or 0.5 mm² repair wire.

Am I being paranoid (we are talking about the drive train CAN bus after all, that also controls the ECU, gearbox, brakes, airbags etc), or has no one here ever had any issues with untwisted CAN mods?

If in doubt, I may well end up replacing the two wires with a strand of twisted pair from an Ethernet Cat6 patch cable.
Still, thought I'd ask around first

[Umai Naa!!]

As they're communication wires, twisting them together minimises electrical interference.

Can you separate them out of the loom and twist them?

[elosch]

I probably could, but twisting them would almost certainly mean the resulting braid is too short to reach the CAN gateway. So I reckon replacing the two loose wires with a pre-twisted pair taken with matching length (could be salvaged from Ethernet cable) is probably the easiest. I could even solder the old and new wires together and "simply" pull the two out/in.

But if the common census is "why bother", I probably won't

Edit: Scrap that altogether, the CAN wires are taped together with only one other strand (12V) and it would be futile to try and separate these. I might just add an entirely new cloth tape wrapped pair to the harness. The two extra wires bridging the length of the car might even come in handy some time for another mod

[Umai Naa!!]

I'd use new automotive wire, and duraseal butt crimp connectors. Soldering is a bit of a no-no on CAN wires.

[elosch]

The soldering would only have been to attach the old and new wires so I can pull them through the hoist (i.e. pull the old wires out one end, which feeds the new ones in instead). I'd have removed the soldered bit afterwards and done a crimp.

Sure, I might get some 0.5 or .35 automotive wire to do the new twist. On the other hand UTP (unshielded twisted pair) wire found in Gigabit Ethernet cables apparently is the perfect solution with its standard 121 Ohm characteristic impedance.

At the CAN gateway side I plan to do a solution that will remove the need to cut any wires on the existing loom. I'll pin out the drive train high and low pins from the gateway connector (female micro quadlock terminals), plug those into a 2-pin housing:

1-1718333-1 - AMP - MQS | TE Connectivity

The matching male connector housing will split into the PDC harness and back to the original CAN gateway pins (using only a short length of twisted pair, so the junction will be close to the gateway)

While this introduces another crimped/plugged connection to the bus, no length of CAN cable will be left unterminated and I hope any potential reflections at the connectors will be minimal.