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Thread: Sound System + Warranty

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Sydney NSW
    Posts
    209

    I've gotta say that I'm pretty impressed with the sound in these from the factory. We've got a MK4 GTI, a MK5 GTI and a 2008 S3 and they all sound amazing.


    MK4 GTI | MK5 Sportline | 08 Audi S3

    Modify your ride with free DIY videos at www.mightycarmods.com

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    4,016
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by HiTorque View Post
    Search VWortex back 2005/06: one guy ordered Bremen MP74 system to be installed by a dealer, around $2K, and perhaps it was the best sound option.
    You will need to glue sound dumpers on all internal metal surfaces inside your door otherwise it will rattle everywhere. I won't modify it, though my warranty is over, I just don't want to loose steering wheel controls.
    My Alpine works just fine with the buttons, although you can only have either radio, or display functions per button, so you are limited to four functions. Dead easy conversion.

    http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...el%20Interface
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    46
    ok, I still have not finished my amp install, so here is some pics to show the progress and what to do where, at least the most important bits.

    PS. Admin, the 97.7 KB file size is a bit silly for attachments, resized to 800x600 I still have some 125 KB images.

    The AMP+SUB pair is JLAudio kit, all up the amp (G2250) and SUB (12W1v2 in a JLAudio tuned + ported box) with a Sony 4 gauge amp wiring kit came in at $680 from JB.

    to source the amp feed lines i used one of these . It is a Line out converter to draw some RCA outputs from the speaker outputs on the back of the head unit.

    when fitting one of these units, make sure you are confident with electrical wiring, I can give some advice, but practice makes perfect and I'd hate to see someone ruin their install from not having enough experience.

    I tap soldered my RCA converter into the wires, it was tough, but it was done cleanly by slicing the insulation along the speaker wire in the dash about 1", doing a complete cut around the wire to allow me to peel back the 1" segment, so I could tap solder my RCA adaptor into it and then allow me to replace the wire insulation over the solder and finally tape it up with some good quality electrical tape.

    A SPLICING HOW TO: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

    unfortunately I didn't take pics during the install as it was a 30C day and I was pretty ropeable from working the midday sun without any shade.

    so here is the JLAudio SUB in the boot of the Golf, it takes up a little bit of room but I hardly ever use the boot:
    Attachment 3320

    The JL SUB weighs in about 21 KG, so its strapped in nice and tight, I don't want it going into orbit in a car accident, it might not look it, but the back of it is on an angle and butted nice and tight into the rear of the boot moulding.
    Attachment 3321


    Shown below is the 80AMP fuse about 6 inches from the battery + terminal, YOU MUST USE A FUSE.

    REMEMBER KIDS: petrol + sparks are not friendly, the last thing you want to have on your conscience is you being at fault for your friends burning to death because you didn't use a fuse.
    Attachment 3324

    when running the AMP +12V constant, remove the black plastic tray, remove the loom with the foam insulator on it and unwrap the foam, run your high current lead next to this and re-wrap with the foam, this allows you to utilise the hole that's already there and allows a near invisible uninstall if ever needed.
    Attachment 3322

    remove the bung that plugs the hole in the firewall (where my cable goes into the firewall), this is the perfect spot to run this lead as it ends up in the passenger footwell behind the plastic trim.

    TIP: don't throw out the bung, you need it to run your 12v constant through.

    so cut a hole in the end of the bung, and feed the wire through it, and replace it into the hole near the end of the job.

    the problem with this design is that VW decided to fit a rain tray to stop rain from getting into the air intake for the fan (good design) they also decided to design it so that that tray dripped right on top of that bung (bad design)

    so, you have to silicon it all up to stop water creeping into your car and getting in under the carpet and insulation, you don't want your car smelling like rotting wet carpet.
    Attachment 3323

    that's pretty much all there is to it, there are some other tips I could give regarding 12v switched hookups and where to run your 12v ground in the boot, but I'll talk about that later when I finish wiring mine.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Moonee Ponds
    Posts
    905

    Another thing, running 4ga is a lot easier than running 0 ga !!!
    Audi B4 80 Q V6 '94 Race Car !! KEGGED
    Audi B4 80 V6 Avant '94 Only one in the country that I know of !!! KEGGED
    Subaru Forester XT '06 Genome Exhaust/Car-PC/Boost Gauge/Oettingers !
    --VW Bora V6 4mo '01 Gone

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