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Thread: mk1 radio

  1. #1
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    mk1 radio

    Hey all,

    i want to install a sound system in my mk1.

    i don't want to cut any holes in the sides, im just going to put bigger speakers were the original ones are in the back. oh and the sub in the boot.

    does anyone know, which cd player is the most fundamental to put in a mk1?

    whats involved in the installation of it. are there any cd players that will just pop in?


    cheers guys.
    Audi S3 8L - Stroker GTX3582 700bhp+
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16v_kid View Post
    Hey all,

    i want to install a sound system in my mk1.

    i don't want to cut any holes in the sides, im just going to put bigger speakers were the original ones are in the back. oh and the sub in the boot.

    does anyone know, which cd player is the most fundamental to put in a mk1?

    whats involved in the installation of it. are there any cd players that will just pop in?


    cheers guys.
    I presume the radio cutout is standard size, any CD player will fit, just need to wire it up.

    Don't go for bigger speakers, just uprate with new the standard ones.

    If you are putting a sub in the boot, then you will want a monoblock amp. also ensure the CD player has preouts to accomodate this.

    Any decent car audio shop will tell you what you need.
    1993 MK1 CAB ! Work in Progress........

  3. #3
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    Sorry to bring up an old post, but im looking to install a system in my MK1 too.
    Im thinking of:

    - obviously replacing the head unit (possible place in the glove box with iPod connection) to keep the stock look
    - 4" speakers at botton of the center console (i believe its called the kick panel)
    - 6" speakers on the parcel shelf (i dont want to cut holes in my current one, i'll be looking to source a 2nd hand parcel shelf....hopefully)
    - 10" subwoofer
    - 4 x 100 (maybe less) amplifier for speakers
    - monoblock amplifier for the sub

    If you dont want 2 amplfiers, you can just run the front speakers from the headunit, amplify the rear two speakers and bridge the spare two channels for the subwoofer.



    thoughts?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NERD View Post
    Sorry to bring up an old post, but im looking to install a system in my MK1 too.
    Im thinking of:

    - obviously replacing the head unit (possible place in the glove box with iPod connection) to keep the stock look
    - 4" speakers at botton of the center console (i believe its called the kick panel)
    - 6" speakers on the parcel shelf (i dont want to cut holes in my current one, i'll be looking to source a 2nd hand parcel shelf....hopefully)
    - 10" subwoofer
    - 4 x 100 (maybe less) amplifier for speakers
    - monoblock amplifier for the sub

    If you dont want 2 amplfiers, you can just run the front speakers from the headunit, amplify the rear two speakers and bridge the spare two channels for the subwoofer.



    thoughts?
    Spot on bro, exactly how it should be done for a cost effective upgrade, don't get two amps, just get a bridgeable four channel amp.

    10" sub is perfect in my opinion, still plenty of deep base but also gives a nice punch, 12" is a little large and you just lose that punch.

    Only suggestion is if your using 6" in the parcel shelf, using amplified power, suggest you put crossovers in to support these otherwise they will sound crap.

    Using this set up you will get a nice low, mid and high range sound with a nice punch to boot...Sweeeet.


    I just purchased an awesome alpine head unit with full ipod control, its on its way ....
    1993 MK1 CAB ! Work in Progress........

  5. #5
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    Ive turned my mk1 in to a music box, funny this came up because i only just finished the box yesturday. Total of about 1400rms. There is still a bit of work to go but the majority is done.

    Head unit in center console. Im keeping the old style headunit in the original place. HEAD UNITS DO NOT FIT IN A MK1 GLOVE BOX!!!!! Maby in the later model clove box like in a cabby but not in the early ones. I spent a couple of hours cutting and fitting the head unit in to the glove box only do find out that the glove box with head unit sticking out hte back did not fit back in to the car. There is not alot of room in a mk1 to play with, i found it difficult to get everything to fit back together with the fat wires im using.

    6" splits in the front doors in custom door pods (bigger speakers need electric windows)

    6.5" coax with built in tweeter in the rear, custome made mounts and 1/4 panel.

    12" Sub in a custome made 1.75-2cu.ft ported box in the boot.

    The 4x130rms amp with the dizzy block and crossovers are mounted in the wheel well. The 1000rms mono block for the sub is mounted on the back of the box.

    Power is run through 2awg cable and the Big3 have been upgraded. Im waiting on a 100amp volvo alternator that fits straight in and a optima yellow top battery. Dynamat will be installed throughout.

    Appart from running speakers with a larger rating this is prity much as big as you can go in a mk1 without doing some extra fiberglass work and taking out the rear seats for a bigger sub. I did want to hide the headunit but there was realy no place to put it. The door could handle a few more speakers as could the rear 1/4 pannel but it needs more custom work to do so.

    You can use the same style speaker monts as the ones i have in the front, they sell that at autobarn in all different shapes and sizes, so you dont have to cut bigger holes in the door cards. If you want boot space get a 10" in a ported box or a 12" in a sealed box. Mount the amps wherever you like as long as its not in a tight place.

    If you go with a 2 amps i suggest geting a bigger alternator and upgrading your big3 regardless of the power they are rated. The mk1 alternator is only 35amp and thats only enough to power your head unit and a small sub.

    Probly not the best idea to put pics up but im sure you will see it at DOVW....im sure you will hear it before you see it though haha

    Its not to hard to put a system in to a mk1 man, if your not going big it should be easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brisben View Post

    10" sub is perfect in my opinion, still plenty of deep base but also gives a nice punch, 12" is a little large and you just lose that punch.

    Only suggestion is if your using 6" in the parcel shelf, using amplified power, suggest you put crossovers in to support these otherwise they will sound crap.

    Using this set up you will get a nice low, mid and high range sound with a nice punch to boot...Sweeeet.
    This is all wrong. Sorry to be harsh mate.

    Everything depends on the specs. Its a common misconception that a 10 is not as deep as bigger subs but is punchier. You can have a slow 10" with a large xmax that will make more bass than a fast 12" with a low xmax. It gets a bit complicated but it all comes down to the specs of the sub, the enclosure, the amp and the settings. What you are doing is like being racist to subs haha.

    You cant say he will get nice low mid and highs if you dont know the specs of the speakers, enclosures, amps, power etc etc.
    Last edited by Spyda; 02-11-2009 at 09:40 AM.
    MK1 GLS 3door
    A4 B7 2.0T

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyda View Post

    This is all wrong. Sorry to be harsh mate.

    Everything depends on the specs. Its a common misconception that a 10 is not as deep as bigger subs but is punchier. You can have a slow 10" with a large xmax that will make more bass than a fast 12" with a low xmax. It gets a bit complicated but it all comes down to the specs of the sub, the enclosure, the amp and the settings. What you are doing is like being racist to subs haha.

    You cant say he will get nice low mid and highs if you dont know the specs of the speakers, enclosures, amps, power etc etc.
    Fair comment mate, You seem to know your stuff, I was comparing a standard mk1 system to an uprated one. I presumed he just wanted a better quality sound, than rather go all out like yourself., as you stated it gets complicated, I didn't get the impression he wanted to go all out, just simple and better.

    I have had 10 and 12 " subs and always got a better kick from a 10". So not a misconception, you have to compare apples to apples. a 10" and the same 12", you will get more punch from the 10", I don't think this comment is all wrong , however now you mention xmax and fast and slow rates, enclosure style I do get your point, its a fair one.

    I get the impression he wanted a cost effective upgrade to a standard system. Rather than go for 1400 W RMS bone shaker. I ' like it though, but each to their own.
    Last edited by Brisben; 03-11-2009 at 07:13 AM.
    1993 MK1 CAB ! Work in Progress........

  7. #7
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    if you run a sub under your parcel shelf it may affect the speaker mounted on it - also parcel shelves are not that great a surface to mount speakers (they are thin and they vibrate...doof rattle, doof rattle. !

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