How to install component speakers into a Golf.

[Fhrx]

Hey there everyone,

If you’re a member of other car forums you might have seen our ‘how to’ threads regarding component speaker installation. Apparently a few of the members here certainly have because I’ve received quite a few emails recently asking if I could do one up here on installing three way component sets into the Golf. So without further ado; this is how to install components into Golf doors.

Step one: Take one original door complete from factory. Remove any residue left on the door in preparation for sound deadening.



Step two: Apply sound deadening to outer skin (although in the photo you can only see the deadening through the midbass hole you do need to do the entire outer skin – this often necessitates the removal of the inner / outer door skin and / or window mech entirely).



Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the midbass drivers. Your midranges in the top of the door will also require diffusers if they’re not sealed units (many smaller 2” & 3” midrange drivers are sealed units).



Step four: Attach aftermarket cables onto the three factory speaker wire pairs. The factory wires are a large enough gauge to handle up to around 100 watts continuous. Any more power than this and you’ll need to run new larger cable runs through into the doors. We tend to solder the aftermarket cables on about four inches back from where the plug would sit. This way when you sell the car you simply de-solder the aftermarket cables and solder the factory plugs right back in. Once soldered they should be heat shrunk, not taped! We also put a plug on the midrange driver too so the door trim can be removed if need be.





Step five: Make the baffles. These take a similar shape to the factory ones so they can screw into the factory screw holes (thus avoiding damaging the door). They're usually constructed from MDF but we've made them from perspex or even 6061 alloy depending on application. If they are MDF then they should be painted with polyester resin to avoid absorbing water. The midbass one will obviously be much thicker than the midrange one.





Step six: Sound deaden inner skin and remove all air bubbles. Make sure you leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains.

[Fhrx]

Step seven: Screw the midbass baffle onto the door and seal it with gap filler against the sound deadening. Now you’ll need to use quite larger threaded screws as the factory midbass speakers are riveted in (meaning the mounting holes left over are 4mm). Make sure you also install a gasket between the midbass driver and the spacers because air leaks out here (ever tried to run your car without a head gasket)?



Step eight: Screw the midrange baffles onto the door skin and seal them with foam against the plastic. Again make sure you install a gasket between the midrange driver and the spacers because air will leak through.



Step nine: When it comes to the tweeters we employ a silastic sealant to hold it in place. We do this to save damaging the factory tweeter cover. Remember the tweeter doesn’t actually vibrate that much so this is fastening method is more than acceptable. We also attach some foam to the rear of the tweeter and this is sandwiched between it and the door resisting vibration when in operation.



Step ten: Solder all the trimmed speaker wires onto the various speakers. Don't use crimp terminals because their two best traits are falling off and creating resistance.



Step eleven: Heat shrink around the terminals to protect them. Unlike electrical tape, heat shrink will not begin moving after a couple of months.



Step twelve: Sit back and enjoy your new found midbass. This is what the door looks like when complete:



So there you have it; Golf doors with components installed. Using this method you have about 80mm of mounting depth on the midbass and 40mm depth on the midrange (using varying thicknesses of baffle). If you go any deeper than that your speaker might impact the door trim during large excursions or the window at the rear end.

[Fhrx]

If you want to further enhance your listening experience (staging and imaging wise) then you'll probably want to make a set of a-pillars to mount your tweeters and and midranges on like this:





If you wish to read more about what sound deadening, diffuser panels and sealing does click here and click here.

If you wish to find out more about staging, imaging and how our ears relate to them both click here and click here.

I hope that helps you guys out.

[aristocrat]

Wow, that is so comprehensive. Thanks for all the info fhrx. I look forward to dynamatting the doors but before doing so, will have to save up for the aftermarket 3 way system. Any suggestions?

[Fhrx]

Any suggestions?

Well our usual suggestion is for you to arm yourself with a pile of your own CDs and audition as many different component sets as possible - your ears will tell you which ones to purchase. When it comes to recommendations though; there are many variables to consider - everything from budget to listening tastes. Some of the component sets we have installed more recently though include:

Budget of up to $1000:
Vide Audio Space 3D
http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk

Focal 165VR3
http://www.focal-fr.com

DLS Reference 6.3
http://www.dls.se



Budget of up to $1000-$2000:
Focal 165KRX3
http://www.focal-fr.com

Morel Elate 3
http://www.morelhifi.com

DLS Iridium 6.3i
http://www.dls.se

DynAudio System 362
http://www.dynaudio.com



Budget of $2000 and up:
Focal Utopia Kit 7
http://www.focal-fr.com

Audison Thesis
http://www.audison.eu

DynAudio EsotarII
http://www.dynaudio.com

Seas Lotus Reference
http://www.seaslotus.com.au/

As I say; they're just some of the ones we've done recently. There are many different brands out there and many of them sound fantastic when installed correctly.

[CatonaPC©]

The A piller speakers are very impressive. Do you have to buy special trim or do you shape the existing trim?

[Fhrx]

There are two ways of doing them. You can either make them from scratch or you can simply fibreglass over the factory ones (the decider is usually how much the replacement pillar trims cost from VW).

[G-rig]

Do those A Pillar mounted speakers attract theives? Look awesome though and help raise the sound stage.

I was going to suggest using a DSP like the BitOne over custom speaker locations, however it doesn't really work as intended (ie. like the OEM stereo does with keyless sound without getting a turn on pop. Am considering using a canbus interface for key sensing as a compromise and scrap the speaker level remote turn on).

ps Great write up

[ICEDIST]

As always Marty.... Fantastic work from FHRX !!

[Fhrx]

On the subject of DSP; we often find in the Golf's that there is a massive dip at the 315Hz mark (due to a combination of cross points and midbass driver location). It often necessitates a boost (with a very narrow Q) of up to 12dB!