Finished boot install

[ScienceVR6]

i'm running VDO Dayton 6.5" drivers, and my front bass/mid bass is great. i'm not running dynamat, but my doors are stuffed full of dackron.

[Lorenz]

Very nice install there mate, love the neatness of it all and the falso floor, something Im gonna do soon when I get a chance


Im running 6.5" Pioneer Bullet Splits in the front, stock door trims, no dynamat or anything and get quite nice mid range and low end bass from them if need be, but have the bass turned down for the fronts as it was too much. What my sub is for!

Do you have the fronts amped or just running off the headunit?
Can make a heck of a difference

[Mr ©harisma]

Ive got Alpine Type-X's in my doors + dynamat. I think its a 6.5" woofer. Zero bass n very weak mid bass. Already had 2 audio shops have a crack at it

No offence dude but I wouldn't expect much mid bass out of a set of Alpines. You should also have axis control via your xovers ( Apline go on about how good they are so I am sure they have it ). That made a big difference with the Bostons as they are mounted very low in the doors. I set mine to be off axis. Do you live in Sydney?

[Mr ©harisma]

I am running boston S60 on front and back, one layer of dynamat to seal the speaker hole and one layer in the service holes. I found the biggest difference is having dynamat where the speaker is mounted. But still not getting the BASS I want.

I think I should try DIY a an MDF spacer, so that it is resting on something SOLID. wonder if that would help ??

I just tried bridging my fronts, EXTRA bASS instantly but louder engine Noise... MASSIVE HEAD ACHE !!!!

those S60's will need a lot of power to run loud due to their efficiency and woofer design. I had some older FS-60's and running them off the same Audison amp as the newer SL-60's, and the later are a lot louder and better sounding ( new tweeter helps ). The mid bass also has a lot of kick to it due to the woofer being very similar to the old Pro6.5. Its a bit late now but remember that you sit in the front, that is where you should spend the $$$.

Also when you bridge across channels you must remember that you THD will also double compared to if they where in stereo. Also I would mount them on an MDF spacer and silcone around the outside ( you want it airtight, all mids should be mounted this way ). To do your door properly you should MDF up the service holes as well by adding SD over the top is better than nothing. I might get a pic of my doors if I can find them.

[glidn]

nice clean boot work.

As for Soundofav6, you could check that polarity is set correctly,

or you can even try swapping the polarity of the tweeters to be opposite to that of the woofer.

This may all sound strange, but a ran 5 different components in my vr6.

the only ones that sounded full and bass and very nice kick, was a set of focals 165a1's but you cannot run a grill with them.

I also had the pioneer TSC1620 and TSC1625 in mine, they sounded nice but sounded a whole heap better by swapping the polarity over of the tweeters.

one other thing i did was use some silicon or gasket sealer, and sealed the door pocket to the door. Then also inserted some dacron filler only a little bit behind the speakers. Those 2 things made a world of difference.

Hope this all helps for you.

[Soundofav6]

Thanks for your input guys, so basically I need to have the the door pocket sealed, I did use a seringe and filled in some gaps with silicon, I felt air pumping out while I was driving. made a bit of difference

"Then also inserted some dacron filler only a little bit behind the speakers"
Does that mean I should fill in the massive hole behing where the speaker magnet sits?

Just one thing before I start sealing cracks and holes, are 6.5" woofers "volume sensitive" like subwoofers ? I would hate to chisel out fillers.

"dacron filler " is that a special type of filler ?

[glidn]

yeah general rule of thumb, 6" are also space sensetive, hence you end you installing more or less dacron behind it, yeah you can put the dacron directly behind the speaker over the hole.

one other thing you can try is this, cover the rear of the speaker with panty hose. but it has to be streched onto the back fo the speaker. That will trick the speaker into thinking it's in a larger box than it really is.

Generally it makes it think it in 2-3 times larger enclosure than it really is.

Hope this helps.

[Soundofav6]

one other thing you can try is this, cover the rear of the speaker with panty hose. but it has to be streched onto the back fo the speaker. That will trick the speaker into thinking it's in a larger box than it really is.

Generally it makes it think it in 2-3 times larger enclosure than it really is.

Hope this helps.

WOOo.. thats new.. so what happens if you have a bigger encloure?

JUstify this.... in the shop, they have the speakers display all mounted on wood, MDF with nothing behind it. but it sounds AWESOME. it's nothing like that in my car.

Could that also because the speakers are low in the car and mounted on ear level in the shop with in big encloused room ?

[Mr ©harisma]

Ok so the door, as you can see the stock door.

Then I added amost 1 sheet of deadener to the inner skin and placed a dynasorb pad directly behind the woofer. This will help stop the rear sound waves from bouncing around the door and interfearing with the next cycle. i.e. it stop cancellation.

Then I added a sheet to the outer skin and put a MDF spacer.. I then siliconed around the spacer and added a second layer of deadener around where the speaker is and over the spacer.

Lastly I added the woofer and wired it all up.

I wouldn't bother with dacron if possible. In a sealed enclosure if you make it larger you will decrease the -3db point i.e. it will play lower but at the expense of efficiency. Now since we are talking about mid bass, there is no reason why would really want them to play lower. If you want them to play lower, buy speakers that will do it ( Morel, Oz Audio, Dynaudio etc ). This is why we have a sub woofer. I wouldn't worry to much about having it in your sub enclosure either unless for some reason you can not build one big enough.

[Soundofav6]

I get ya.. thanks for your pics !!!
the thing is us mk3s we are one step behind, the speaker is mounted on the door card instead of the door. So I probably have to stablise the door card, that is sealing the door card.

So my first step, MDF a spacer for a solid mounting point. seal the spacer on door card. seal off all cracks on holes on door card. dynamat the door card ?