Which component speakers and sub?

[jazd]

I'm looking for some component speakers and a sub for my Golf Mk5. Apparently the Focal 165 VR3 components fit and sound good. Can be had for $600 delivered. Do you think its worth upgrading the rears too (4 door)?

I have a Alpine PDX-5 amp and Pioneer AVH-P3200BT head unit coming already.

Also does anyone know where I can get a JL Stealthbox sub or similar in Aus? Can probably get one delivered for less than $800 from the US. I wonder if its just easier to get a slim off the shelf unit. What does everyone run?

[Greg Roles]

A direct fit is always a great idea, and I believe there are a few options out there now. Rear doors are just fill, but with my time delay off you really notice the midbass from the rear doors, so I'd recommend the upgrade, mine just run off the Alpine head and sound fine. I just got lower model rears, spent the money on the front. Sub comes down to the space you're willing to give up, but an 8" like mine fits nicely on the passenger side rear, a shallow 10" would probably squeeze in, and if you don't want to fab up the side box yourself, I'm sure you could get the basics done for 800 here in Oz. My 8" is awesome for sq, obviously not enough for some, but zero boot space lost.

[G-rig]

You could also take a look at some of the DLS components, and obviously listen to both if possible. Depends if you like the Focal sound, the tweeters can be a bit harsh but still a good upgrade compared to stock and at least you know they fit.

I'd go to FHRX as they should have a range of speakers you can demo, and also ask about a stealth sub as i wouldnt bother getting a JL from the states and custom ones wouldn't cost any more.

[jazd]

A direct fit is always a great idea, and I believe there are a few options out there now. Rear doors are just fill, but with my time delay off you really notice the midbass from the rear doors, so I'd recommend the upgrade, mine just run off the Alpine head and sound fine. I just got lower model rears, spent the money on the front.

Yeah still undecided whether to upgrade the rears at all. I probably wont to start off with. I think I'll just run the rears off the head unit and bridge the PDX-5 to the fronts. So that should give at least 200W per side for the fronts (PDX-5 often pump out heaps more than the 75W they are rated at, havent got my birthsheet yet so I dont know what mine will be). Is this going to be too much for the fronts and factory wiring to handle though? Most components only seem to be rated to 160W or something.

Sub comes down to the space you're willing to give up, but an 8" like mine fits nicely on the passenger side rear, a shallow 10" would probably squeeze in, and if you don't want to fab up the side box yourself, I'm sure you could get the basics done for 800 here in Oz. My 8" is awesome for sq, obviously not enough for some, but zero boot space lost.

I could probably get my brother to help me make a sub box but I would be worried the sound quality would end up being ****. Any particular off the shelf 10" sub boxes you know of?

You could also take a look at some of the DLS components, and obviously listen to both if possible. Depends if you like the Focal sound, the tweeters can be a bit harsh but still a good upgrade compared to stock and at least you know they fit.

Do DLS make any components that fit without cutting the metal?

I'd go to FHRX as they should have a range of speakers you can demo, and also ask about a stealth sub as i wouldnt bother getting a JL from the states and custom ones wouldn't cost any more.

Yeah I might be best just going down to Sydney I think unless anyone knows of a decent car audio place in Newcastle.

[G-rig]

I think they fit in with no hassles but best to check with the shop .. give Northfield Moorooka a call up here.

I wouldn't bother upgrading the tears at all, better to give the fronts more power. Saves pulling more doors apart too but can still run them off the HU.

[jazd]

I think they fit in with no hassles but best to check with the shop .. give Northfield Moorooka a call up here.

I wouldn't bother upgrading the tears at all, better to give the fronts more power. Saves pulling more doors apart too but can still run them off the HU.

Yep not going to be upgrading the rears now.. save some money for now. Do you know which DLS components fit?

Anyway I was just looking at some Focal 165 VR3s from Italy and realised - how many speakers come with that kit, is it just the 3 components for one side or is it 6 speakers for both sides?? This Dynaudio kit which is another option appears to come with 6.

[Ben J]

Yea I wouldnt touch the rear speakers, you want to put the best you can up the front, and really dont hear it coming from the rears (well unless you have the rears up much louder then the fronts, a lot of people running really high end gear dont even run rear speakers, or have them faded right out)

Buying overseas works out to be a hell of a lot cheaper at the moment, I recently got a sub and amp from Sonicelectronix for less then half of what I could have gotten the same things around here. On that amp I'd do as you said and bridge the 4 channels to 2 for the fron speakers and run the rears off the head unit, good speakers should be able to handle the power I think, and I'm guessing you wouldnt have it cranked to max that often/for very long anyway.

As far as speakers go I also hear focal's are very good. I'm not sure what your budget is but if you havent, maybe take a look through here 6.5 Inch Component Car Speakers | 6-1/2 Component Systems heaps of stuff for cheap. I'm looking at the Boston Acousitcs PRO60SE which retail for $900 around here, but 290 on there\

for a sub, I'd go with a little 10 inch that'll take the 300RMS the amp will do. I just put a JL 10W0v2 in my car which is the 300W your after, sounds very nice, and if you crank it it puts my mates "hectick dual 12 inch" set ups from JB to shame. But it was only a cheap thing, if you have a bigger budget then soemthing a little more high end im sure would sound even better. I made the box myself, and I'm far from skilled at woodworking, easy stuff really, took longer then I was expecting though. The box is pretty small really but idk if it would be bigger then what you are after

[Greg Roles]

I have 6.5" Boston Pro's in the front doors, SL60's in the rear. On the MKV I had to do a LOT of fabbing and modding to fit 6.5" in a nice, sealed way, but then I used the factory spacers with integrated speakers, so you'll be up for some wood spacers to get them flush with the door panel hole, unsure of the earlier MK's though.

I went 8" sub as getting the exact volume and fitting it was easier, a 10" generally is deeper and requires volume. I wanted exact SQ, so wanted exact volume. It's a Bostom G108, and it fires into 8.5L sealed. Amazing for such a little speaker. For my 250rms powered fronts, I ran dedicated wiring, factory is a bit small for big wattage.

[jazd]

Thanks to both of you for the advice. Will probably go for a 10" sub. Dont think I can justify $1000 for a custom moulded enclosure and sub so I might give making one a shot.

So you guys are only running 2-way components? I would kinda like to stick with 3-ways.. Although if its gonna cost $1100 for the Focals because the $550 price is only for one side (3 speakers) then maybe I'll just go 2-ways.

[Greg Roles]

I'm running 2-ways front and rear, but Boston are known to be a bit "bright" and I actually put the front tweets onto -2db, as it was a bit too "in your face" for me. I find the sound to be excellent, and would buy top end two way over mid range similarily priced 3 ways anyday. But then I've never tried a 3 way, so if I'm missing anything, I don't know about it!