$1000 to improve CC audio?

[Vexed]

Similar to what I was considering. Not a bad solution if you're short of space and don't want a huge sub. Have a look on this site for ideas (link below). Also ryda.com.au and elite-electronics .com.au. I'm sure there are others, I'm no expert. With an amp like below you can feed it the speaker wires from the rns510. Pretty sure that sort of amp can send a line level to that sub. Make sure any speaker package will fit in your doors. I had to pull the tweeters in my polk to bits to make it look factory.

PIONEER TS-A1605C 350 WATT 6.5" SPLITS / COMPONENT + TS-A1675S 300W 3 WAY 6.5" COAXIAL + GM-A4604 4 CHANNEL AMP AND WIRING KIT! - Super Cheap Everything

It is my wife's car, but I like driving it sooo much, and the fuel economy on it amazing, my other car is BMW 5 series with Harman Kardon Logic 7, and I'm used to that So I would like to keep the car as stock as possible, adding a bit of boom boom would be great.
So I did a bit of research, and most people recommend a DSP with high level input like BitOne 10 or LC6i, especially if I need remote turn on... hmmmm you reckon I could install the Pioneer TS-WX710A and feed it directly from the speaker wires? that is interesting...
Man I'm a real rookie when it comes to car audio, thank you for spending the time to reply... much appreciated.

[wfdTamar]

No - factory speaker wires to something like this amp. (the one in that Pioneer package doesn't do it). I meant find a 4 channel amp that also has low level (not amplified) output for a sub to feed that powered one you found.

Or just do it this way:

A 5 channel amp (so one is meant for a non amplified sub). One that's designed to take speaker level input. Here's an example of what I mean (not recommending that one - I just picked it quickly):

Alpine MRX-V70 5-Channel 1200W Amplifier - $345.85

Upgrade the door speakers. Then use a sub that has no built in amp. There's lots of prebuilt 'sub in a box' things around.

Loaded Enclosure : Elite Electronics, Welcome to our Online Store


Alpine Electronics of Australia

When looking at amps there seem to be Class 1/2 (general purpose, run of the mill) and Class D which are smaller and more efficient (run cooler).

[kamold]

You dont need an amp that requires speaker level output nor do you need a line out converter.

The RNS/RCD can be configured via VCDS to output line level balanced output for an amp. This is how they integrate with the factory amp like Dynaudio or Typhoon.

Adding an amp is the easiest and cheapest way to improve the setup. Then if you feel the stock speakers aren't up to the task (which they are for 90% of people) then go down the route of replacing them. The stock headunit's internal amp is underpowered (4x25w) so having a dedicated amp drive the speakers makes a huge difference on its own.

Agree that an amp with a separate sub output is desirable should you wish to add a sub and take the bass duties away from the stock speakers, this will allow them to handle only higher frequencies again increasing their usefulness.

[Vexed]

Thank you guys, you have been most helpful, I have a better understanding of what I need to do now... It looks like I can spend $1000 - $1500 to improve the sound a bit
any decent VW installers you are aware of in Sydney other than FHRX? I know they are one of the best, but I live in the upper north shore, he is a bit too far...

[kamold]

Brad at Insane Car Audio at Castle Hill is very good, don't know of anyone further east...

[wfdTamar]

You dont need an amp that requires speaker level output nor do you need a line out converter.

The RNS/RCD can be configured via VCDS to output line level balanced output for an amp. This is how they integrate with the factory amp like Dynaudio or Typhoon.

Adding an amp is the easiest and cheapest way to improve the setup. Then if you feel the stock speakers aren't up to the task (which they are for 90% of people) then go down the route of replacing them. The stock headunit's internal amp is underpowered (4x25w) so having a dedicated amp drive the speakers makes a huge difference on its own.

Agree that an amp with a separate sub output is desirable should you wish to add a sub and take the bass duties away from the stock speakers, this will allow them to handle only higher frequencies again increasing their usefulness.

I didn't mention the 'line out from RNS510' thing so as not to complicate matters. It requires another bit of wiring (RCA adapters, though they're cheap) and changing the setting in VCDS (easy if you have access to that).

I wonder though if doing it that way would give better quality than using the speaker level output? Using the speaker level output you would have the factory equalisation (presumably with good speakers and an amp not desirable), but does low level output do away with that equalisation? Or is it still there and you need a processor to get rid of it (or correct it)?

That was one thing I was going to test when installing mine, but it's so much easier to wire up for speaker level output I don't know if I'll bother testing line level output.

It is just easier to get an amp that can accept speaker level input. Seems a common feature now.

Also interesting to see how far the factory speakers can go with an amp added. It'd be interesting to know their specs.

[kamold]

In theory the line level output, when balanced, should give a better signal to be driven by the amp as it minimises any noise being introduced from the head unit to the amp. So it is preferable in most cases than converting speaker level to line level, or feeding speaker level direct into an amp.

The head unit will still be applying some eq to the line level I think but if you leave the eq flat, and do any required processing in the external amp/controller then its effects would be very minimal.

I drive the factory speakers through an external amp run at line level out and the difference is huge from running those same speakers direct from the RNS. And because its line level out and the amp is moderate power (4x75w) there is little distortion at close to max volume on the head unit. If you drive the speakers from an external amp run at speaker level output in general you need to be careful driving them towards upper volume settings at it will be louder and closer to the stock paper cone speakers' limits.

I've spent about $500 on amp, pnp harness and sub (all obsolete products) and for the outlay am very happy with the difference.

[Postofficebox1]

In theory the line level output, when balanced, should give a better signal to be driven by the amp as it minimises any noise being introduced from the head unit to the amp. So it is preferable in most cases than converting speaker level to line level, or feeding speaker level direct into an amp.

The head unit will still be applying some eq to the line level I think but if you leave the eq flat, and do any required processing in the external amp/controller then its effects would be very minimal.

I drive the factory speakers through an external amp run at line level out and the difference is huge from running those same speakers direct from the RNS. And because its line level out and the amp is moderate power (4x75w) there is little distortion at close to max volume on the head unit. If you drive the speakers from an external amp run at speaker level output in general you need to be careful driving them towards upper volume settings at it will be louder and closer to the stock paper cone speakers' limits.

I've spent about $500 on amp, pnp harness and sub (all obsolete products) and for the outlay am very happy with the difference.

Hi Kamold,
A quick question regarding amplifier switching.

I previously had a 2010 Jetta with RNS 510 and had amp set up with line level outputs via a Blaupunkt loom I purchased but had the issue where amp wouldn't turn on until key was at accessory in ignition - switching power obtained from only discoverable source - 12v outlet for cig lighter/charger.

Im interested to know if you have this issue where the RNS is on with no sound until ignition is also on, or does the amplifier you selected have auto switch-on from line-level inputs?

many thanks

[kamold]

The THA455 amp I got is auto switching I believe it triggers when it detects and audio input. Don't quote me on that.
But it works like factory. Can be turned on without a key at all for up to 30mins then will shut down again.

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