Oil Change Question

[Transporter]

Plenty of people have oil burning issues with certain audi/VW engines. Not so much with any other brand from what I've noticed. They even mention it in audi/vw car reviews sometimes as a 'trait' of the vehicles. It's just poor form these days IMO, rings should seal, end of story. If someone's ok with them not sealing that's up to them, I think its unacceptable.

I can tell you that plenty of people don't check their engines oil level and Subaru engines could have an appetite for the oil too.

I see plenty Jap engines that drain 1/2 of the original oil fill and quite a few of them are badly sludged at much less than 100,000km. It all comes to the maintenance, how good it is and it starts with the owner of the car.

This is 2006 Toyota Yaris and the oils that you can use in the engine. The rest of Toyota models are very similar including the latest ones. Only hybrids call for 0W20.



You could use the 20W50 oils in these VVTI engines in every part of Australia. That's right they're suitable up to -7 deg. C.

[brad]

To the OP:
If you are adding 0.5L/1000km then that = 7.5L/15,000. That's almost 2 oil changes, so your additive pack is certainly being kept at maximum spec. The oil filter has plenty of capacity to hold contaminants & gets more efficient the closer you get to 15,000km.

I guess it depends on how hard you drive it. I have stage 1 but don't consider that I drive my car very hard & usually stick to 15,000km changes. My engine uses no oil & I had the oil tested at the last change & it was like new.

If it was me, I'd stick with 15,000km changes & keep driving it as you do in the hope it will seal up a bit more.

[Transporter]

To the OP:
If you are adding 0.5L/1000km then that = 7.5L/15,000. That's almost 2 oil changes, so your additive pack is certainly being kept at maximum spec. The oil filter has plenty of capacity to hold contaminants & gets more efficient the closer you get to 15,000km.

I guess it depends on how hard you drive it. I have stage 1 but don't consider that I drive my car very hard & usually stick to 15,000km changes. My engine uses no oil & I had the oil tested at the last change & it was like new.

If it was me, I'd stick with 15,000km changes & keep driving it as you do in the hope it will seal up a bit more.

also, it spends more time on the bypass (bypass valve opens and will stay open for longer time due to the restriction to flow) when you get no filtration at all. So you get unfiltered oil circulating through much longer, especially in cold.

I also disagree that the filter is big enough. But hey, it's only my opinion, but not the above, which you can bank on.

[brad]

Bypass only comes into play if the oil pressure required to get through the filter is greater than the spring pressure of the bypass. yes/no?

And your saying that the OEM filter when fitted to an engine that has regular 15,000km changes is incapable of getting through the 15,000km without excessive plugging? This is the same filter that in Europe/UK is subject to change periods of up to 30,000km/2 years?

[R36FTW]

Yes, bypass opens at a certain oil pressure which is driven high by increasing resistance in the filter element. Oil pressure at cold start can be 4-5bar (58-72.5psi) which is way over what most bypass valves open at. Oil pressure at high RPM can be 70+psi depending on the engine and oil pump, so at high revs its not uncommon for the bypass to be wide open too. Most people think their oil filter is filtering all the time, but its not the case at all.

[Transporter]

Yes, you‘re correct there, when more pressure is needed for the oil to get through the filtrating element, the bypass valve in the filter will open. When the filter is clean there is a less restriction to flow, the bypass valve may stay closed, but as the filter is getting more clogged up the bypass valve will start to open to allow unfiltered oil to lubricate the moving parts, since the dirty oil is better than no oil.

I don’t know what is the micron rating of the OEM filter on Skoda and VW engines, but I could speculate here a bit; since it is a long life filter (as brad say 30,000km/2years) which is not really big in size and has a back pressure set to 2.5 bar, the micron rating could be around 50 or 60 microns. Which is not good for short trips and oil changes every 15,000km or 1 year or even longer.

Anyhow regardless of the age of the filter and the oil, the bypass valve in the filter also opens at high engine RPM’s to keep up with the lubricating demand of the fast moving rotating parts. With the dirty oil and filter, it opens sooner and for longer.

A bit of reading for those interested Oil Filter Advice good info if you do extended oil changes.

[R36FTW]

Yeah would like to know its micron rating. Most paper element filters are something like 98% at 30 microns and 85% @ 20 microns, and most engine wear is caused by particles 10-30microns, which when you think about the particle size in relation to the bearing/piston to cylinder clearances is quite large.

There is no way I'd run a filter for 15000kms if I could help it. The filter doesn't get more efficient as it approaches 15000kms, the gunk may catch more small particles but the bypass will be open for longer and more often so unfiltered oil will be circulating throughout the engine more often. This is hugely detrimental and will rapidly accelerate engine wear.

[Transporter]

Here it is. Scroll to page 10 in the document for the filters data. http://www.mann-hummel.com/industria...BMAJHSgWGg.pdf

It wasn't that hard to find it.

[R36FTW]

W930/21 - 99% 38um / 50% 14um - Seems about right for paper/cellulose media, nothing special.