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Thread: How to dilute G12++ for 'hotter' conditions?!

  1. #1
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    Question How to dilute G12++ for 'hotter' conditions?!

    Hey guys,

    I picked up a bottle of G12++ to top up/refill my coolant (after draining of course). It is suggested to use it in a ratio of 2:3 and this would be good enough for up to -24C.

    As we are moving to FNQLD in a couple of days I am wondering if I could dilute it even further down to lets say 1:4, as it barely reaches 10C up there most years and it would save me from buying another G12++ bottle

    The only thing I can think of what would make me worry is that a 1:4 mixture might not contain enough lubricant for the seals etc....

    Cheers

    edit: Out of curiosity: How much do you pay for 1.5L of G12+(+)? I paid $27.60 at the dealership in Wodonga today...

  2. #2
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    I'm not sure about the dilution ratios, I'll leave that for someone else. But I paid $20 from an independent VW specialist for my 1.5L bottle. I had some work done on my car from them, so I'd say $27.60 from a dealer is a good price.

  3. #3
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    I wouldn't go any weaker than 2:3 - I did this in my car for a while, had been running it like that for 2 weeks and took it in for a service. When I picked it up, the mechanic had noticed that the coolant was not at the "correct" concentration of 1:1 and they replaced the lot. Thanks. $70 of fresh coolant down the drain. I never took my car back there again.

    The worry is not that it doesn't have enough lubricant in it if it's more diluted, but that it doesn't contain enough corrosion inhibitors in it.

    You also get better (not worse) cooling the more water you add. The same amount of water can absorb a lot more heat than coolant additive, my temps were 1-2°C cooler when I was running a more dilute mixture.

  4. #4
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    The dilution ratios are printed on the bottle:

    2:3 for up to -24C
    1:1 for up to -36C
    3:2 for up to -52C

    I just noticed that they recommend the use of H20 on the bottle (MY6/11) to dilute the stuff and afair since the end of 2010(?) they actually recommend to use distilled water instead for the newer engines.....that could be labled a bit better I guess...

    Anyway this still doesn't solve my problem, I've read in a few forums that 2:3 is the minimum ratio that should be used, but always in reference to the -24C protection.?!?

  5. #5
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    Always use 1:1, don't excede 60% concentration and never put distilled water only into the empty cooling system, mix the coolant before pouring it in. Do not try to save money on coolant!

  6. #6
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    Well then. My T4 needs about 9L of actual coolant so I guess I need to get a couple more bottles. My intentions were never to 'save' on the coolant, just the -xxC specifications made me wonder if I actually needed that in a hot climate like Cairns or Townsville and saw the 'possibility' there to save some $$$. I hope you understand my thinking here..

    1:1 it is.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gecko2k View Post
    Well then. My T4 needs about 9L of actual coolant so I guess I need to get a couple more bottles. My intentions were never to 'save' on the coolant, just the -xxC specifications made me wonder if I actually needed that in a hot climate like Cairns or Townsville and saw the 'possibility' there to save some $$$. I hope you understand my thinking here..

    1:1 it is.
    Yes, I understand you. The anticorrosion protections of the Glycol based coolants incl. G12 coolants are lower than just inhibitor corrosion coolants, simply because there is 95% of Glycol and 5% inhibitor corrosions. The inhibitor corrosion coolants used decades ago when the engines were made of cast iron only did reasonable job protecting the cooling systems, but needed to be changed every 12 months and were not good in winter. Modern engines need coolants that flow better to get to the usual hot spots in the cooling system fast and remove the heat from there fast, before the temperature could rise to the boiling point and cause the engine/cylinder head or head gasket damage.

    So, if you dilute the G12 coolant, there won't be enough anticorrosion inhibitor to protect against corrosion and there won't be enough glycol to protect against corrosion at high temperature, that's simply speaking.

    On the other hand if you put too much of the concentrate, you will lower the boiling point of your coolant. At the correct concentration the G12 coolant will boil at more than 120deg.C and even at higher temp when pressurized (expansion bottle cap has valve in it that keeps the right pressure).

    Checking the coolant's concentration, when your car is serviced is important but very often overlooked and the consequences are costly for the car owners.

  8. #8
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    Hey Transporter,

    thanks for the explanation, that helps so much to understand the single bits of knowledge I picked up here and there on forums, wikis etc.

    It's a shame VW doesn't print this on their labels and you have to 'be lucky' enough to find a professional who is happy to share his knowledge!

    Thanks again buddy![COLOR="Silver"]

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