Wreck to Race.

[Peter Jones]

I'll have it all sorted before the Phillip Island date. I haven't really had much of a chance to drive it yet. I catch the train to work so I don't get a lot of time behind the wheel.

I was going to take it across to Moorabbin to pick up it's new shoes, but I want to figure out what that noise is first. I strongly suspect CV from sound of it.

Pete

[Peter Jones]

Bugger! The noise is from one of the new wheel bearings.

There's sort of a flat spot in the outer race. You can't see it but you can feel it when you rotate the bearing.

It's ok to bring along to the Jamboree, but I'll have to get it sorted before Phillip Island.

Pete

[roccodingo]

Had similar issues with replaced wheel bearings here Pete, unsure if it was from :-
1. weight of vehicle on bearing with nut not fully tensioned for a short period of time ( week or so )
2. Alignment not done before driving virtually any distance.
3. defective bearing or installation of bearing

Being a fitter/ machinist by trade basically discounts #3, my money is on # 2 as it has happened several times and even after having the front end aligned at a " tyre shop "

So now i tension the nut as soon as the wheel is on the ground, and align the wheels myself ( camber at the very least !!)

Have had instances where the front bearing has begun to fall apart when moving old cars about with loose axle nuts...

HTH. project is looking very good for limited time and budget mate, job well done

[Oneofthegreats]

Have had instances where the front bearing has begun to fall apart when moving old cars about with loose axle nuts...

This will do it every time & has also happened to me.

The front bearings require the outer cv joints done up tight in them at all times, otherwise they'll s#$t themselves on the first push!
The same goes even with the new car's. If the driveshaft's are out, the car's don't come off the hoist under no circumstances until there refitted!

An incorrect wheel alignment isn't going to cause this problem, otherwise half the mk1's out there would also have this problem.

In my experience it's been because of a high mileage bearing, a faulty new wheel bearing, or being pushed without a outer cv joint installed.

Eg. The wheel bearings in my gti were top notch & then I had removed the complete driveshaft's out of my gti when I pulled the engine out. The car wasn't pushed anymore than 5 times.
Refitted the engine & driveshaft's & as soon as I hit the road @ 50+km/h, could easily hear the bearing rumble.

[roccodingo]

An incorrect wheel alignment isn't going to cause this problem, otherwise half the mk1's out there would also have this problem.

if its on the piss enough it happens...

[Peter Jones]

Thanks guys, nice to know I'm not alone.

After reading your experiences I think I know where I went wrong.

When the car was up on stands I could only get the axle nut 1/2 way down the threads because the car was up against a wall and there wasn't a lot of room to play around. So I decided to wait 'till the car was back on it's wheels to tighten the nut up. Eventually I think that what I did was to lower the car and push it out of the garage with the loose axle nut, I'm guessing this is the most likely cause.

I drove it down to get a wheel alignment about 2km but the nuts were well tightened before hand and it was making this noise on the way there. At the time I optimistically put the noise down to wheel alignment.

I'll order a new bearing during the week and get it pressed in.

At least I'm not up for $100 s worth of CV joints yet.

Pete

[Water Boy]

Look good today!

[Peter Jones]

Look good today!

Cheers James,

I'll pop up some pics once I've rebuilt my PC.

Still a bit of work to go.

Bonnet restraints are in now.

Pete

[Peter Jones]

Finally got the fuel pump cut off circuit working properly last night.

I had a couple of dud relays, I had to mock it all up on the bench and go through a handful before I found a working one.

I'm not thrilled about a second hand relay so I'll fit a new one now that the wiring is sorted out.

FYI it is now a CAMS requirement that all cars that run an electric pump have a system that turns off the pump within 6 seconds of the engine stalling. Previously that condition only applied to fuel injected cars.

My car is fuel injected and I should have fixed this circuit long before now in any case.

Useful links.
http://www.diagnostic-assistance.co.uk/mech_inj.htm

Relay Terminal connections

30 Permanent battery live
31 Earth
1 or 31b Coil negative
15 Switched 'Ignition on ' voltage
87 Output to Fuel Pump

http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/sfraser/relay.html

Another possibility for those of you who this affects is to use a cut off relay designed for LPG systems these are probably more readily available than the VW ones. These relays are also tachometric.(They require continuous pulsing from the ignition coil to keep them turned on.) I'm going to look into this for the Facet pump on my other golf.

Search terms (To help people searching for this info later on)
Fuel Pump Relay
Tachometric Relay
Fuel Pump cut off
K-Jetronic


Pete

[Preen59]

Thanks for the info Pete. LPG cutoff relay sounds like the go me thinks.