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Top injector is the air shrouded type, uses 2 seals., As Loon said the lower one is a brass version of the earlier non shrouded injector.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Jones
Air shroud is supposed to help cool the injector and allieviate the fuel vaporising, prob aids in air moving around the nozzle as well ??
the pressure limiting valves were the 1.5 cut of pressure version not the 3.5's ..?
looking good Pete, glad you have the time to put into it mate.:cool:
A Few updates.
Today was cool enough to weld so I broke out the gas and got busy.
The shock towers had been abused by the previous owner who had cut two coils off the springs AND oxy'd them. The struts themselves were stuffed too so you can imagine the hammering the towers took. There were cracks in the paint and seam sealer indicating that the towers had had a few good wallops.
For every one's interest, the wisdom that was given to me on the subject was that you should weld one inch long beads with 1 1/2 inch gaps between them. This is apparently to still allow for some flexing. Normally a mig would be used for this job, an oxy would usually be too hot and distort the metal too much. My torch is unconventional and designed for this sort of stuff so I can get away with it. I bought it years ago and it's served me well. If your curious see http://www.amweld.com.au/
Preparation.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w2-1.jpg
The white thing is a fire proof blanket so I didn't send the K-Jet system up in flames.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w3-1.jpg
In progress , the paint and body deadener caught fire a few times which is what all the black soot is from.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w4-1.jpg
And here they are cleaned up, etch primed and seam sealed.
I'll paint them tomorrow when the seam sealer has gone off.
I'm going for the factory brushed on goo look.:)
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w5-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w6-1.jpg
The fumes from the burning paint and deadener were pretty fierce and I was using an air drill with a wire brush. So for those of you that haven't met me here's what I look like.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w1-1.jpg
Red was looking a bit lonely and left out of all the attention, so it got a shiny new air cleaner today.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w7-1.jpg
I managed to get the new tie rods in before dark today too. The inner ends on the old ones are pretty loose and had a small amount of play in them.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/w8-1.jpg
More work to do tomorrow!
Pete
yep. that's pretty much how I remember you looking the last time I saw you! hahaha
Good to see you're still pluggin away at it.
how does the red car sound with the ramflo on it?
Ooo, RAM flo. If it was a honda or similar you could expect atleast a 25hp gain.. But it is red, so possibly more... j:Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Jones
Looking good Pete, its nice to see someone doing things right without going over the top. :)
Exactly the same way it did with the paper filter! There's hardly any induction noise out of this motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarred
I changed it because I can't be stuffed hunting around for the right sized paper element at service time. All I have to do is wash it and re-oil it now.
Pete
Quote:
Originally Posted by Preen59
I got the ram-flo off ebay for a song, it was new old stock. When I got it the element was decaying due to age, it had gone all sticky and mushy. I ordered a couple of red elements directly from Lynx. http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/main.php?idx=home
I've always liked the old school look of the ram-flos. Red ones look even better:D
Pete
doing some great work here Pete :)
Things seemed to be going a bit slow today until all of a sudden it was back out doors!
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/z1-1.jpg
Today.
Painted shock towers.
refitted struts.
New axle nuts.
New coolant reservoir.
Generally just bolted everything back in.
The timing has me stumped at the moment. It's up and running fine but I can't understand why the distributor seems to be 90 degrees out. More thought required on this one.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/z2-1.jpg
I need to tune it properly but there's still no brake fluid in it so it can't be driven.
Tomorrow I'm going to drop the rear suspension. All the lines have to be disconnected anyway and my bushes have finally arrived so out it comes.
My PC died today so I'll have to spend the evenings rebuilding it which is a bit of a time waster which might slow me down.
I've booked in for a wheel alignment on Tuesday so I'd better get it mobile before then.
Pete
On the timing issue, is the pulley right on the intermediate shaft at the timing belt end?
Yep. Things seemed screwy so I took it back to basics.
#1 is at TDC (Screwdriver down plug hole method)
Flywheel mark is nowhere to be seen. (Yes I went right round a couple of times)
Both Cam Lobes on #1 are pointing up.
Cam pulley mark level with rocker cover.
Int pulley mark inline with mark on crank pulley.
Point rotor at mark on dizzy.
Plug lead #1 above mark on dizzy.
It starts and runs like this but not well. So I started advancing the distributor.
It came good at about 90 degrees which has got me scratching my head a bit. I shouldn't start if it's that far out.
I guess the same idiot that bolted the flywheel on out of phase probably did the same for the dizzy.
I've got to pull it out anyway to replace the electronics (because I can.) so I'll put it back in the right way then.
Pete