gah. memory like A goldfish I reckon I've got. I'll re read everything else before I ask anymore questions in future! j:
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gah. memory like A goldfish I reckon I've got. I'll re read everything else before I ask anymore questions in future! j:
Because My callipers are unique! Matt assures me they're GTI and I occasionally see the correct pads listed on US e-bay, but I don't think many GTIs were fitted with this particular calliper. Most catalogues show them as fitted to Audi 80s and Volvos. I've been in contact with the EBC importers here and they don't do the greenstuff pads for this calliper according to the EBC factory in the UK.
Greenstuff pads are available for the regular kind of GTI callipers though.
My front pads look like this.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...DB401gif-1.jpg
Pete
Oh, well there you go! Are they early Mk1 GTI calipers or something? Maybe they originally came out with your caliper before VW opted for the one that is most common for the 239 GTI brakes? Strange that VW did something like that.. Usually they exhaust every avenue of existed VAG equipment before they go and make something new.
nah not really. cause it was more than 18 hours ago that it was first posted. so there. yea. Wait whats that, I'll get to china soon? oh okay. I'll stop then... :rolleyes:
and BTW, who the hec does a study on the memory span of goldfishies???
sounds like it was a Government study too...:rolleyes:
I forgot to mention that I managed to get the booster and master cylinder in last week too.
MK3 booster and 22mm master cylinder, scirocco proportioning valves on the rear lines. Nissan Pulsar Fluid reservoir.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...08/03/h7-2.jpg
Ok, now i don't want to sound like i'm ridiculing anyone here (especially you pete, you seem pretty damn switched on) but..
Do you realise that putting a bigger booster on a car's braking system doesn't make the car stop better.. It just means that you don't have to push your foot as hard.
In my opinion, for a motorsport car, i'd want to run (and i am) a small booster or none at all, because the more brake boost you have, the more spongy the pedal is and also it means that it will be more sensitive, which isn't necessarily a good thing when you want to be braking as hard as possible and heel-toeing.
Its not my car and i'm not saying you should do what i say, just my thoughts.
Those picture's brought back nightmare's for me Pete.
My car strangely had a stutter off idle when K-Jet engine was originally fitted & took absolutely ages to figure it out, from swapped over coil's, distributor's, ignition lead's, rotor button's, TCI unit's, Fuel distibutor's, accumulator's & air flap's, playing with CO% etc.
Came down to removing the injector's & flow testing them only to find one of the injector's had the end cap, one had stuck in the head & the other two injector's didn't have them at all. All the same injectors too.
Removed the end cap's (the one stuck in the head was a bastard!), readjusted the CO%.
Bingo!!
Moral of the story. Make sure they all have the same part # & are also visually identical.
Never fear all opinions are valid.:)
To tell the truth I never actually considered this line of reasoning.
My first "race" car was a beetle and had no boost whatsoever of course.
The booster in this car was effectively not working at all. The car was originally a GLD and I suspect, although I have not been able to confirm this, that the GLD boosters are different because the motor should be running a vacuum pump which I'm theorizing produces more vacuum than a petrol motor.
So the first objective was to get a functional booster in there.
Secondly I'm putting Mk 3 rear brakes on this car and the collective wisdom of the internet assures me that a 22mm master cylinder is the way to go. Now a 22mm master cylinder won't go onto a MK 1 booster so MK 3 booster it is.
Valver was kind enough to supply both items.
One day I'll build a dedicated track car and then I'll consider running proper pedal boxes and no boost. I've always wanted to build one of those setups complete with an inline hydraulic handbrake.
I'll see how this works out for now - if it sucks I'll change it. I'm getting pretty handy with the brake stuff now!
Pete
I bought the seals in from the US, the seller also had a puller tool for the injectors which I also bought. The puller was only a few dollars and made the job a bit easier although none of mine were particularly stuck in there.
I'm slowly changing out all the components in the K-Jet system as they pop up on e-bay. The pump was the first to go as it was siezing every now and then and blowing all the fuses when I first got the car. The previous owner knew about it 'cos I found a couple of packets of the right sort of fuse in the glovebox.
I've also replace the auxilary air valve with a new one and now the cold idle circuit is working again.
I have an electronc distributor. Cleaning the contacts for the wiring loom at the distributer gave me back a heap of missing horsepower. The distributor wiring was very ordinary so I've reworked all of that. I ordered in a new ignition module and hall effect module for the ignition. I had them sitting on the shelf for about a week when the old ignition module in the car blew up one morning. I was pretty pleased with myself for anticipating that one!
I'll change out the distributor module once I've got the motor started back up. I don't want to change everything all at once, it gets too hard to fault find.
Pete