Nice one. How much did you open the ports up? Are you running standard valves?
Audi S3 8L - Stroker GTX3582 700bhp+
Golf GTI 1980
Golf GLS 1979
www.facebook.com/etunersmotorsportau
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
Audi S3 8L - Stroker GTX3582 700bhp+
Golf GTI 1980
Golf GLS 1979
www.facebook.com/etunersmotorsportau
Hmmmm...
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/app...or_dcoe_ca.htm
I think so.
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
I received a package today..
Smart arse, Pete! haha. Thanks man!
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
Hahaha I lol'd.
FYI, found a site that specialises in Weber stuff, in Aus..
LP3000 - DCOE Single Cable Linkage kit - Bottom Mount Weber Performance Carburettors
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
Well, I started unpicking the rain tray today. I've ummed and ahhed about it, but it had to go. It has been modified previously (and not that neatly) and didn't seal on the bonnet anyway, so i figured "what the hell".. They look much cleaner without them anyways.. Plus it will allow me to get into the plenum chamber and clean it out properly..
Here's some pics..
What i've done there is identified where the spot welds are and done my best to centre pop them with a centre punch as close to the centre of the weld as possible. Then i got a centre drill and centre drilled them (a fairly small one. tip diameter of about 2mm). I did my best not to break through, but it's not really a big deal. A quick zap with the MIG and it's filled. The reason for centre drilling, apart from the fact that it stops the drill from wandering is that it removes the material from the centre point when you drill the weld out with a sheet metal drill. It cuts much, much easier and you don't blunt the drill anywhere near as quickly.
Once you centre drill the spots, grab the sheet metal drill and press pretty hard. Then pulse the drill, a second or so at a time so you can watch to see when you break through the first layer. Now that you've broken through the first layer, what I did was use a good, solid scraper and hammer to drive it between the two panels to separate them and get any last little burr etc broken away. Repeat on as many of the spot welds as you can.
When you get to the welds behind the strut tower, it's a different story, you can't get a drill in there (well you probably could get a 90degree drill with a stubby drill bit, but I don't have one). All I did was bash the scraper between the panels and do my best to break the welds.. Unfortunately in the corner I accidentally cut the firewall and made a bit of a mess, so i've created work for myself.. But ahh well..
More pics..
Here's where the firewall had been repaired after the infamous pulled through clutch cable. It was a bit of an ugly job, tek screwed in and bogged over. So I removed it and will make a repair panel. I plan on making a template when I get it right and i'll make and sell some if you guys are interested..
....... Ahh crap.
I also dropped the angle grinder, fitted with a 1mm elastic wheel down between the rain tray and the wing on either side to cut off the little tab that goes under the guard.. I wasn't going to pull the guards off just for that..
Should have the tray off tomorrow.
APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
Email: chris@tprengineering.com
I love your work. (no homo)
This is mint. I was looking for info on removing this literally days a go.. Maybe you can read my mind haha.
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