Mk1 16v Project

[Preen59]

There not just normal 4 bolt main's either.

There splayed studded 4 bolt main's . Usually reserved for higher output blown or turbo charged engine's.

Um, this block is for a 2500 horsepower top fuel engine..

My old man is restoring a front engine fueller from the 60's/70's.

[Jarred]

Um, this block is for a 2500 horsepower top fuel engine..

My old man is restoring a front engine fueller from the 60's/70's.

oh. well that makes sense then doesn't it.

trust Tim to notice though!

[Oneofthegreats]

Um, this block is for a 2500 horsepower top fuel engine..

My old man is restoring a front engine fueller from the 60's/70's.

Hell Yeh.

You wouldn't have any engine spec's?

I "love" this stuff.

looked at a friends 427 small block the other day
and it had ones that go in from the side as well so 6 bolt mains ?
he is building it for his vt com what a waste

If it's a chev & for a VT, it will be a Gen3. Gen3, LS2, LS7 etc are all 6 bolt main's standard.

I don't see it as a waste.

[Preen59]

The good old standard government issue small block chev...

What engine specs do you want dude? Its a 'cackle car' engine we're building, so we're building it around heat absorbtion mainly so it will run for about 5 minutes without burning itself to the ground.

Rick Macdonald from San diego is helping us with the build, he has built quite a few cackle car engines and really knows his stuff. He's done the fuel system for us and we are building it to his specs. It should spit about 2 foot flames at idle... 4 foot at night with the fuel system just right.

[Preen59]

And back on topic, i painted the spare wheel well with rust converter this arvo, there was a few spots in it so i thought i'd be silly not to.

Next up i have to weld up to small holes in the floor aswell as seam weld the cross brace and rust convert the floor. Might drop the donk out this weekend too.

Bought some H beam rods today from the US. 450 grams total weight, dual forged (rod and cap are forged separately, providing better grain structure), destressed, shot peened, and magnafluxed. 650 horsepower rated. ARP L19 rod bolts. $290US.

They aren't any flash brand, but they'd have to be atleast as strong as the standard rods, plus they are way lighter. They have a brass little end bush for floating pins too, which is good because i'm going to run floating gudgeons with teflon buttons.

[Oneofthegreats]

The good old standard government issue small block chev...

What engine specs do you want dude? Its a 'cackle car' engine we're building, so we're building it around heat absorbtion mainly so it will run for about 5 minutes without burning itself to the ground.

Rick Macdonald from San diego is helping us with the build, he has built quite a few cackle car engines and really knows his stuff. He's done the fuel system for us and we are building it to his specs. It should spit about 2 foot flames at idle... 4 foot at night with the fuel system just right.

Sound's like an awesome project.

The spec's can wait chief.

Sorry for getting off topic.

[Preen59]

Woo more forward progress... With the floor this time.

Today I dragged the bad girl out of the workshop and in next door to Benny's workshop, and fired the MIG up. I welded up the small rust holes in the passenger side floor. I thought there was 2.. But luckily i got dad underneath the car to push a brass bar against the underside of where i was going to weld (FYI, using a brass bar or somthing similar, like copper or even alloy takes some of the heat out of the thin corroded metal and stops it burning away as you are trying to weld it up.. Otherwise you can chase it half way across the floor if you aren't careful. It also keeps your weld flat and stops it from sagging down.), dad noticed another rust crack under the passenger side brake line, about 50mm long, so i welded it back up too.

After all that crap was done i cleaned it out and hit the floor with a serious coat of rust converter.

Hopefully tomorrow i'll drag it back in there and seam weld the floor cross brace. I might even have a go at seam welding the door jams with the oxy, nice and slow with no filler wire and fuse the two edges together..

[GoLfMan]

Hopefully tomorrow i'll drag it back in there and seam weld the floor cross brace. I might even have a go at seam welding the door jams with the oxy, nice and slow with no filler wire and fuse the two edges together..

awesome progress mate!! PICS!
i think i'd rather tig it, but both do really nice welds.... arrgghhh i want a TIG

[Jarred]

argh.. all this welding terminology! my brain my brain. haha

joking.

why are you bracing the foot well? extra stiffness or just thin floors?

[ontarv]

nice tips on welding will use on the weekend
what brand of rust converter are you using
and pics tooo!! x2