Mk 1 Diesel Project

[static1800]

yep.

When I win the 90Million tonight in the lottery, you sure know what I'll be buying first!

Smart choice, I would buy the Vectra too

[WABIT]

how many cars do you need? looks like you're stuck in a traffic jam there

its at my joint, my mum has some stupid tea party/luncheon thingy, we put my wheels on to see what they looked like on his car and if they will scrub with rolled lips

cheers
dom

[Jarred]

after spending some time on the audi last week, I got out and checked a few things with the diesel today.

and I'm perplexed.

Whilst driving at night, in the cold, was when I had problems.

I started the car up, and let it idle, while i checked these things. With the lights on, voltage dropped ~ .7V. whilst having the heater on (full-ball) voltage dropped around ~.5V again. both times, the voltage dropped, but was still increasing (ie being charged by that alt., or atleast held steady)

Now, whilst having both on is where I ran into troubles. Voltage dropped from ~14.3 (with everything off,) to ~12.9V and started decreasing! . This would explain the issues i've been having, but I'm not really sure how to fix them!

Is it poor earths in both cases. is the combination of having both heater and lights on just too much current/voltage draw?!

Any ideas?

I've cleaned up the headlight earths quickly the other day. (well tried atleast)

TIA

[Peter Jones]

Start measuring current across the fuses.

Pull each fuse out in turn and put your DMM across the fuse terminals. Make sure your DMM is set to the 10Amp range and the leads are plugged into the right sockets.

I'm begining to suspect that your heater fan is starting to sieze up. Has the heater fan fuse been replaced by a heavier one by any chance?

I've found quite a few siezed fan motors, as the bearings dry out they get harder and harder to turn which makes the current go up and up. The fuse box often gets damaged too by the excessive current.

You can get them lubed up again with some of that INOX spray, but you'll need to pull the motor out to do it. (I use INOX because it doesn't leave a smell in the cabin). Spin it up on the bench to test it. It should spin freely by hand.

I'll see if I can dig out my DC clamp meter for you to have a play with.

Pete

[Spyda]

I havnt been following the issue closly so sorry if i missed this but have you upgraded your Big3?

[Jarred]

I havnt been following the issue closly so sorry if i missed this but have you upgraded your Big3?

nope, but seeing as the car is standard, and they're all in good nick (ie not rusty, good contact, clean) this shouldn't be an issue. If I had a stereo or something yea, but on a standard car, I don't think it'd be the cause.

Thanks Pete, I'll get out tomorrow and fiddle with the fuses, if I can find the time, I might spend all day playing with my new welder

EDIT: should be an 8amp fuse shouldn't it?

and what am I looking for when I put the DMM across the fuses. I'm guessing less than 8 amps (providing it's an 8 amp fuse socket). Thanks Pete.

[Peter Jones]

Your alternator only puts out 50 (?) Amps.

You're looking to see if the total current through all the fuses added up is less than 50amps or the battery won't charge.

I don't recall the fuse rating for the fan, I'll have to look it up but I'm a bit busy tonight.

Pete

[Jarred]

thanks pete. I'll give it a crack tomorrow.

[Jarred]

So I'm pretty sure I ended up getting most of the electical problem's, don't really recall, cause I havn't been driving much (holidays) and I have an alignment or other issue causing a vibration that makes driving much less than pleasurable.


Anyways, here's a taste of what's to come:

[Jarred]

hmm....

I think I have a busted CV.

hmmm....


regardless.