Dyno Video from a while back.
While the KR was still operational
http://youtu.be/g2zaVNLOFAs
I meant taking 15mm off the rubber insert. requires a little bit of modification of the insert 'housing' (similar to what you did with the front one, with the drilling and tapping of the central rod)
I've got a mk 3 subframe, (VR swap) and all I did was chop down the rear mount around 15 or 20mm.
I used to have a mk 2 front engine mount (unmodified and standard) and modified the bracket (hybrid mk 2/3) to suit the 02A. Using the standard mk 2 crossmemeber. I found that the engine had unacceptable amounts of rock., ie when coming off the throttle at high rpm.
I have since upgraded to a toledo/passat/corrado front crossmemeber (mk 2 fitment, but with a mk 3 mount system) and run a factory bracket (unmodified) with a mk 3 BFI insert. Much better, no issues with rubbing/knocking.
Dyno Video from a while back.
While the KR was still operational
http://youtu.be/g2zaVNLOFAs
Well
Last weekend netted a few Changes for the better
- Dropped the rear of the engine 16mm on both Sides ABF Clears bonnet now and no longer causes car to vibrate.
- Nice Soft factory Rubber Hydraulic mounts. Threw out the Urethane Mounts
- Converted the car back to Manual Steering and finally killed the notchy steering that has been plaguing this car since the Resto..
and finally sorted the Leaking Flex Joint issue with the headers..
Drives very well sorted now
Also had a Chuckle when I Stumbled across these old picks again!
Before
Now.
Its nice having the 5 Stud with Wide track and being able to use the MK 2 Manual rack.
Last edited by ranton-inc; 10-10-2013 at 05:57 AM.
What did you do with the small bumpers and matching arches?
-1990 Mk2 GTI 5-door with AMK 20vt (260hp @ wheels)
-Arrow/Rotax 125 TAG X1E Go Kart
Small update: Another new Engine (ABF) and a 02A with a LSD...
Purchased a Golf 3 16V last year with a Minter engine and gearbox as donor parts for the MK2.
also got a 02A OBX LSD
K-Jet had had its day, fed up with the hard cold starts in the morning and lumpy running (the lumpy running sounded awesome but it was kinda all show no go), I wanted Key turn reliability and Automated Ignition Timing & Monitored Fuelling
Few stumbling blocks with the LSD install. Some tolerances on the new diff were slightly over sized. so a machinist buddy sorted that for me. but overall relatively painless and the gearbox went back together fairly easily.. drilling apart the old diff sucked ass..
- New Bellevue washers (Cup Washers)
- New 12.9 Diff Body Cap screws
- ARP Ring gear bolts.
- New Diff Bearings and Oil Seals.
Didn't bother touching any of the other bearings.. the gearbox was tight.
The old Kjet ABF coming out
3 x 2 Litre 16V just chilling out...
New Engine in
I love spaghetti splicing CE2 in to CE1... Decided to strip back all the looms of their brittle plastic tubing. and re-clad in braid tube and re-route much of the wiring.
Progress as of last night. Looms spliced, just need to install an additional relay now to power the o2 Sensor heater and injectors.. and figure out how the Rev Counter works on the Digifiz cluster...
Good work!
I don't envy you trying to convert from CE1 to CE2 though
Yea ? and put the new one back in?
that rope has lifted many of engine and gearbox combo...
Several VR6s, and a whole bunch other ****... never a problem
I think of it more as stupidity and wastefulness, such is life hahaha
the odd looking 16v on the right is for another little resto I am starting soon....
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