First issue with my car - Wont start - Thinks its in D.

[Arno_Scirocco]

Hi guys and girls. Bit of an urgent one this

My car is stuck at home, i somehow managed to get it started again and drive it home from the local shops....

Car wont start. It says it needs to be in P or N before start. The car is most definitely in P. I would move the gear lever all the way to S and back up to P and still same thing.
The screen goes all fuzzy if i just try to force a start and sounds like its a bit low on battery. I have an ammeter and the volts stay conistant at 12.5V and do not drop.
So im thinking... either there is an ECU issue or the battery dropped a few cells which cannot be detected?

Has anyone had this or heard of this issue. I have the car booked in and to be towed next Wednesday but it is a long time as its been in my garage since last thursday.

ANY assistance is greatly appreciated.
It is a 2011 stock standard R.

Thanks

[Hillbilly]

When is the battery showing that Should get someone to turn it over and check under load

[The One]

Sounds a whole lot like the battery mate. Jump start it and run it down to supercheap, they do free battery tests in hope to scam you for a battery replacement

[Speed]

Sounds a whole lot like the battery mate. Jump start it and run it down to supercheap, they do free battery tests in hope to scam you for a battery replacement

Hang on a sec.

Is in Park but displays as being in D? Would a low battery really do that or is something else going on?

[Hillbilly]

Will only take 5 mins with a car and a set of jumper cables to find out.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Car wont start. It says it needs to be in P or N before start.

I'm no expert in these things but in the "old" days you could fairly easily diagnose what was happening and work out where the failure was
Now with ECUs and CanBus with self diagnosis and cars that talk to you it is very different
Assuming that the car won't start when you turn the key and you get a message in the MFD "you need to be in N or P" suggests that either there is a problem with the micro switches in the gear selector, the connectors or wiring, or as you said, the ECU doesn't recognise them (the switches)

the battery dropped a few cells which cannot be detected?

If the battery has dropped a cell it would not be reading 12.5 volts but it could be reaching its "use by date" as it should be 13.8 volts at rest

. if I just try to force a start ...... the volts stay constant at 12.5V and do not drop.

Not sure what you mean by this, forcing the key can only risk breaking it - the key or the lock or both
But if forcing the key makes the starter motor engage suggests that there is a problem with the ignition switch
If it IS engaging and turning over the voltage should drop.

If the MFD is going "fuzzy" when you do this I would be worried as something is not right

and sounds like its a bit low on battery.

Suggests the engine is turning over as in trying to start but slower the normal ?

I would move the gear lever all the way to S and back up to P and still same thing.

Firstly
Disclaimer - This is offered as a suggestion for you to evaluate and try if you feel it is applicable and you are confident
Meaning, should it go pear shape and the Rocc ends up through the back wall of your garage I do not accept responsibility

OK - with that out of the way - in older automatics similar problems sometimes required the following to get them going

Suggest putting in N and turn the key to start - then at the same time just wiggle the gear selector back and forth a BIT - not much - if there is an alignment problem with the switches you might get it to start
BUT - be careful it doesn't start and with excessive "wiggling" engage R or D ------ big decision here if you do this.

You can't engage R or D without the brake being applied so keep your foot OFF the brake
but if there is a problem in that area and that feature may not be working, be ready to jump on the brakes if it firstly starts and secondly tries to move. Not sure who you would take it to to get it checked out
Others on here might know a bit more of what is hidden inside the console and how to check out the switches etc

Of course as others have said, it may just the ECU going nuts because the battery is failing and voltage is down a bit and probably the first thing to eliminate - can you "borrow" a battery from another car ?

Cheers

[Arno_Scirocco]

Car has been sorted. It was just the battery.
trying not to look like an idiot here, i have had batteries die on me and they didnt quite affect the car in this way.
Apparently there are signs that allude to the fact it is on its way out. Windows slowing down, Windows not going down then later will go down.
False reading on gear lever position when about to start.
But seems mine let go pretty hard and all the sensors where getting false readings.

All sorted, so i would in the future with any electrical fault try jump leads before getting too excited.
The fuzzy info screen put me off! lol

Cheers

[Speed]

Glad it's sorted. Thanks heaps for coming back and updating on the actual cause

[Tuan]

Car has been sorted. It was just the battery.
trying not to look like an idiot here, i have had batteries die on me and they didnt quite affect the car in this way.
Apparently there are signs that allude to the fact it is on its way out. Windows slowing down, Windows not going down then later will go down.
False reading on gear lever position when about to start.
But seems mine let go pretty hard and all the sensors where getting false readings.

All sorted, so i would in the future with any electrical fault try jump leads before getting too excited.
The fuzzy info screen put me off! lol

Cheers

In the past, the window doesn't go down and the car doesn't start !

This is good info, thanks and glad your car is sorted.

[The_Hawk]

My Golf's battery is of a similar age but being that it only does lots of short trips I bought a CTEK charger to stick on it every month or so to give it a good charge. They are highly recommended if you're parking the car up or doing lots of short trips.

I've had no issues, but am aware that as I head towards 5 years it's getting close to needing to be replaced. So far so good, but a reminder that it's due to go back on the charger.

On the upside mines manual so I do have the option of clutching it when it's low