VR6 Running rough. Ideas?

**HaydEn** · 08-05-2013, 03:14 PM

I'm trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with my vr.

Rundown: I had the clutch fork replaced. When the shop had the car they wired the alternator and starter wrong so they clutch started it and it had an intake backfire and blew up the isv dampener.

So I deleted that. Car ran like it had a vacuum leak. Idled fine but any throttle input it would studder and misfire.

Changed the tps drove it for a whole everything was peachy.

200km down the road I give it some and it has a huge fuel cut/ cut off of power but then perfectly fine.

Turn car on 30 minutes later it is hunting for idle and almost stalling, hesitating with any throttle and having multiple intake backfires. Unplugged tps and it sorted it self out.

The only thing changed between driving for 200km and the current issue is new leads and plugs.

Does anyone have any ideas? Or as to why (2) tps units have failed?

**Jmac** · 08-05-2013, 10:20 PM

Really would need all the pinouts done, ecu to tps to see they are all getting exactly what they should be. Doesnt sound good, especially if it was ok before the gearbox was out. Its been inroduced. Mind you age age is the car? im sure there is as set up procedure for the TPS. I would need to check my black book to see, its been a while
Cheers

**HaydEn** · 08-05-2013, 10:57 PM

Car is a 94' model.

It is highly annoying considering It was running perfectly fine the day before I had the fork changed.

For it to work for a couple days must mean that the voltages are somewhat correct otherwise it wouldn't work at all.

I'll get out early tomorrow and swap everything around and do a few control tests. Though without a spare coilpack or tps I probably won't get to far.

**decksla** · 09-05-2013, 09:30 AM

battery?

seriously, someone on the forum who works on these things (wrench monkey) said that swapping to a proper non-RACV (or equivalent to you) fixed up MANY MANY issues!

**HaydEn** · 09-05-2013, 09:36 AM

Battery is brand new had 3 different ones in cause of the alternator issue. Thanks for the idea though!

**HaydEn** · 09-05-2013, 10:35 AM

Went and connected the tps. Started car perfect! Went for a quick drive none of the issues the other day. Let it run for 40 minutes. No problems? Will keep this up

**SpeciP3** · 09-05-2013, 11:31 AM

Check the earthing as well, may sound dumb but have had similar problems with a broken earth wire

**HaydEn** · 09-05-2013, 12:50 PM

Thanks for the input. Ill get under and have a look. A good possibility due to their incompetence.

Also; my mfa l/100L went up to 99.9, now I assume this is because it just sat idling for 30-40minutes traveling no distance whilst burning fuel.

**HaydEn** · 18-05-2013, 04:02 PM

Ended up changing the tps again. Worked fine. Drove it last night. Went to start it this morning. Nothing. Just cranks and doesn't start. It did turn over for a split second and just backfired and died.

Can hear a relay clicking behind the dash when in the 'start' position.

Thinking it could be a ecu, crank sensor or a ground issue?

Any other ideas?

**Pmk** · 19-05-2013, 11:56 PM

Stepometer ? Maybe even the ignition switch/barrel ? Sounds like something that happend to my car. Started fine for a few days but didn't notice after a few days it took a few times to turn the key for it to start. Then one day back from work she wouldn't start at all. Even after a clutch start/charge. Nothing. Changed the ignition switch and turned on first go. But again this was on the CL but the sympton does kind of sound the same.

Becuase at the moment. if you've changed the alternator and the starter motor it may persist to be a problem but in this case it sounds like something else is down in the tracks but they symptoms sound exactly like what i had with my CL before. But just another problem that it could be GL