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Thread: VR6 obd1 to obd2 conversion

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Blue mountains, NSW
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    13
    Users Country Flag

    VR6 obd1 to obd2 conversion

    I have just installed a obd2 engine/ Transaxle assembly into my obd1 VR6. I have read before you need to change the loom and ecu for it to work. But out of curiosity I thought I would fire it up to see if it works, to my surprise it fired up and ran, it sits at 2000 Rpm and is running very rich, will rev out but not with WOT. My question is what is the difference with the loom and can I just put the obd2 ecu in.
    I have noticed that the loom is feed into the chassis loom which would make it a bit harder to remove is this the case.
    Thanks Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Newcastle
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    2,927

    VR6 obd1 to obd2 conversion

    The difference is the tps and the isv. Obd1 this is done by the valve. Where as obd2 the tb controls the idle. Switching the loom is just as easy as splicing in the tb sensor.

    Obd2 has Sai as well. And one more oxygen sensor?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Blue mountains, NSW
    Posts
    13
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Thanks for that, I have decided to go with your previous advice and refit the obd1 intake manifold, it was quite a easy job, as was surprisingly the engine gearbox swap. It now runs well but has a flat spot around 4-5k ish. Question is there a way to reprogram the MAF on vw,s or does it learn as your drive.
    My next question is, I know the later model brakes are larger by 8mm, but as Everyman knows even mm.s count. Is there any issues putting my new brakes and cv,s onto a obd1 car?
    Thanks Greg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Newcastle
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    2,927

    VR6 obd1 to obd2 conversion

    I always thought 3-4k was flat. And 4k on was strong.

    Nah. If you got all the other gear it'll be fine. Give you extra clearance for wheels too.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Blue mountains, NSW
    Posts
    13
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter

    Thanks for your advice, installed the bigger brakes today and the left side was easy as, the right side was a different story, when removing the cv I discovered there is a clearance issue between the sump and subframe, I removed the inner cv circlip and removed the cv inner assembly after much swearing and 20 mins under the car, luckily installation was much easier. It nice to have a car that now has better brakes and a gearbox without noises.
    Thanks Greg

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