I am also interested. possible group buy pending?
So I'm sure this has been debated a lot in the past but I thought I should get some fresh opinions on what chip I should be getting for the VR6.
The main two options I've found are
1) GIAC - obviously the most popular in the VRs and have claims of better fuel economy and a subtle increase in lower end torque. $240 delivered from MJM autohaus.
2) Techtonics - Know absolutely nothing about them... Anyone had an experience? I wouldve gone GIAC straight away but the techtonics is almost 100 dollars cheaper! So $145 delivered.
Any opinions are greatly appreciated!
Max
Current: 2007 Black Magic GTI - APR Stage 2, Carbonio intake, APR downpipe and catback exhaust, RNS510, Bi-Xenons, Custom Red Leather Interior, Tow Bar, Racks and Parking Sensors
Previous: Absolute Red 2000 S3 8L - Stage 1 Custom Code
Previous: 1997 Black Magic VR6 - CX Racings, BFI Stealthlines, Chipped ECU, Genie Extractors, Thule 404s, Fairing, Suitcase delete with hotdog.
I am also interested. possible group buy pending?
Would make it $210 and $120 respectively. Anyone else post up if you're interested!! The cost of the chips alone are $180 and $85 respectively.
Current: 2007 Black Magic GTI - APR Stage 2, Carbonio intake, APR downpipe and catback exhaust, RNS510, Bi-Xenons, Custom Red Leather Interior, Tow Bar, Racks and Parking Sensors
Previous: Absolute Red 2000 S3 8L - Stage 1 Custom Code
Previous: 1997 Black Magic VR6 - CX Racings, BFI Stealthlines, Chipped ECU, Genie Extractors, Thule 404s, Fairing, Suitcase delete with hotdog.
ok
i bought a cheap a$$ power chip from some ebay dude in latvia or somewhere over there (ill find the link later). I think i got it for $50 shipped (maybe slightly more but well well under 100)
found out my ecu was soldered (94, obd1) so i got a friend to socket it. sockets are cents, and the solder was free, but he said he would normally charge around $80 for it. if you suck at this type of stuff DO NOT attempt on your own.
impressions:
* well more lively in the 0-3000 range. it pulls harder. think of a 3.2 litre low down pull rather than 2.8. does not carry into the higher revs though.
* instantly noticeable after installed.
* very noticeable after installed.
* i can still notice it now!
* i get an extra 50 (yes 50) kms per tank. Over 500 per tank on PULP in stop start traffic
* high revs still the same
* common flat spot all but gone.
the rest of my car has extractors, 2.5 exhaust, 1.8 ait. pod filter with CAI. 180k on the clock so your results may vary.
highly recommended!!
out of your 2?
ive read some good things on TECH and some bad things on GIAC. But others have this the other way around. Be sure to rip out your ecu anyway to see if it needs socketing. probably wouldnt have chipped my car if it was going to cost me around $300, wouldve spent it on other mods instead. but i did it on the cheaps and im happy
Last edited by decksla; 24-03-2013 at 10:59 AM.
Obd2 is a piece of piss to change the chip. Take apart ecu and it just pries off and new one plugs on.
I'm currently looking at getting a socket soldered in like mentioned above. To make an obd1 ecu easier to swap chips.
Pete had a lot of pinging with huis GIAC chip.
Pete has increased his compression with a mk4 head gasket and relocated his air intake temp sensor so it reads cooler. Those modifications work well on a standard or custom tuned car but on a file that is intended to be more aggressive using stock compression it can throw things out of whack possibly tipping it over the edge.
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any utube vids or info on how to check the ecu, whether it needs to be socketed or not?
or do they all need to be socketed?
Obd1 needs to be socketed.
95' obd2 is a hit and miss as some are soldered chips some have the socket already.
Best way is to crack open the ecu and get the code of your vehicle.
I know obd1 ecu's aren't supported by the mainstream chip tuners. (258bk) code.
Not sure if our obd2 is in the same boat or not.
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