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No, I haven't. I didn't know the option existed. I have a cheap cable that I've used to delete codes before. I'm not sure if it will do that job. What will this test tell me? In any case, the ABS system seems to work fine. Norway's a slippery place half the year. I did a full power stop from 80 km/h to standstill with a quite wet surface a couple of weeks ago, and that worked well. Do you know if rear wheels can be controlled separately by the ABS?
Edit: ..since there are two lines going aft to the load sensing valve. If not, what would be the reason for double lines to the rear?
Last edited by $hitblast; 02-02-2017 at 03:25 AM.
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So, since I have two aft brake-lines, going to each their wheel, I figured I'd try and switch them before the load-sensing valve, to determine whether the problem is in front of it, or including it and everything behind. This had no effect on the brake-test, so I figure the problem is with the load-sensing valve or something further back.
Here's today's test.

The load-sensing valve has a broken bolt in it, and is fastened with an unoriginal bolt. The piston compressor hinge is quite rusted, so I assume this part came from another vehicle when installed. Since I've done reasonably due diligence to its periphery, it seems worth the try to install a new load sensing valve.
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Does the load sensing valve need to be specified for ABS or drums, or will anything with OEM numbers 1H0612151, 1H0612151D or 1H0612151F work?
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