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Thread: Timing Belt replacement on a 95 TDI

  1. #1
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    Timing Belt replacement on a 95 TDI

    Hey guys,

    Has anyone in this forum done a timing belt change on a mk3 TDi? I have done a timing belt change on a petrol car before, but never on a diesel and I am not sure if there are any big differences. I read around on the internet, but couldn't find a good descriptions.

    Is there anything I have to be careful with?
    Can I change the belt without special tools? I have seen a a big metal clamp ( for wood work) as a camshaft fixation tool. Can I get away without having a special tool for the timing belt tensioner?

    I was gone set the engine to OT and make some extra marks on the belt and the housing/sprockets and transfer the marks to the new belt, to avoid messing up the timing of anything.

    I would really appreciate some help.

    I have the timing belt kit and the waterpump.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    u running a 1Z or AAZ mate will need tool for the camshaft ( slot at the back) and ther eis a proper tool for the pump, and a trick when tensioning up the belt and pushing on the pump pin, the tools are readily available on ebay mate. Water pump not timing belt driven but good to change it anyway whilst you spending the time on it, oh and a tappet cover gasket as you need to remove it to line the timing up. Also a good idea to remove the auto tensioner arm for your serpentine belt and give it a good clean and lub
    Cheers
    Jmac
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  3. #3
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    Hi mate,

    Thanks for your advice. I am driving a 1Z.

    I found this thread:

    A3 Timing Belt Change

    I don't understand why the camshaft sprocket has to be removed. If I mark the belt and the fuel pump sprocket, the cam shaft and drive shaft then I shouldn't have to worry about any timing problems or am I missing something?
    I plan on fixating the fuel pump with a drill bit that has a tight fit and wasn't even going to take the valve cover off. I guess that has to be done and I will fixate the camshaft as well somehow. I wasn't planning on buying the special tools. I know that it will make my life easier, but I will see how I go.

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Actually yes, you haven't done a diesel before obviously, my bad that's a point I should have noted 110% yes with loosening off the cam sprocket, its on a taper thus helps with the ( proper) adjustment of the belt. Up to you if you want to do it with drill bits. But highly recommend the cam sprockedt be loose and then of course bang goes your wee white marks. My advice, up to you if you use it,
    Cheers
    Jmac
    Alba European
    Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
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  5. #5
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    Thanks mate, I will follow your advice on loosening the sprocket and use the tool to keep the camshaft in place.
    You mentioned something about a trick when tensioning the belt and holding the pump pin... Could you explain that a bit more? I don't want to mess with the injection pump timing too much.
    Do you think that when the job is done carefully, the timing of the engine should still be alright?

    Cheers

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf MK3 View Post
    Thanks mate, I will follow your advice on loosening the sprocket and use the tool to keep the camshaft in place.
    You mentioned something about a trick when tensioning the belt and holding the pump pin... Could you explain that a bit more? I don't want to mess with the injection pump timing too much.
    Do you think that when the job is done carefully, the timing of the engine should still be alright?

    Cheers
    Yeah, one more thing when you loosen the sprocket you have to hit it with a small pin punch through the timing cover hole so the sprocket goes loose and spins on the camshaft. Get it right mate and timing will be spot on. The trick with the diesel pump is - when the pin is in the pump holding it the sprocket springs back very slightly but very slightly means a lot with a diesel pump. When belt is on and you are due to tension push down on the pin in the pump putting tension on it, pretty much taking the pump pully back to where it should be , its so marginal mate but its pretty important otherwise you will have to adjust the pump and ive never had to do that. The tightem cam pully slightly so its locked on the taper, then remove the cam locker other wise when torqueing you can snap the cam. .
    Do it all carefully, take pics etc
    Cheers
    Jmac
    ps sorry its a bit hard to write, easy doing it when done plenty but that's easy for me to say so take care mate
    Alba European
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  7. #7
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    Hey guys,

    So I just took the belt off, everything is locked in place and I want to take the waterpump out, but some of the screws are blocked by a wheel for the timing belt. How can I remove that wheel? The bolt is spinning with it and I am not sure if I just have to hold the wheel in place and loosen the bolt or what? Can't believe they placed the waterpump in such a crappy place.

    Can anyone help me with that?

  8. #8
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    At the moment I am thinking of just leaving the old one in. There is a tiny bit of play but otherwise there is no water leak and the bearing sounds fine. What do you reckon?

  9. #9
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    Hey guys,

    just wanted to give you a heads up on the timing belt change.

    Everything is done now and the car is running again. I didn't have to loosen the camshaft sprocket which was nice, but man that waterpump was a pain. I guess with the right tool to undo the intermediate shaft pulley, changing the waterpump is easy, but by taking the whole unit out I was able to replace te O-ring between waterpump and engine.
    In the process of removing the waterpump one of the long bolt that holds the bracket for AC compressor, alternator and power steering pump broke, the bolts that hold the drive shaft pulley rounded out and some other fun stuff happened. Finding the replacement parts probably cost me more time then the job. Now I know the petrol cars use the same long bolts for the bracket and there are some of those around.

    Working on an old car is always fun, especially if a few other people worked on it and over tightened some of the bolts

    All together the job worked out fine and when taking your time and double and triple checking that all the marks are aligned and the diesel pump properly locked, it is a doable job.

    Although, now I don't know how much fuel is actually injected by the pump and it would awesome to know. I was pretty happy with the fuel consumption before. I got a bit over a 1000km out my 55L tank.


    Thanks for the help on the way JMAC.


  10. #10
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    No worries, I loosen the cam sprocket everytime and it makes for a nicer job but hey at least you got there in the end. By the way back in the Uk the only way you done the water pump was the way you done it, the whole shebang, that way like you say you change the selas etc, first time I same just the impeller was when I moved here. If you loosened the cam pulley pushing down on the pump lock would have made more sense to you mate but not to worry you are back in the traffic now
    Cheers
    Jmac
    Alba European
    Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
    Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
    For people who value experience call 0423965341

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