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Thread: Shortstuff's 1996 VR6

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Brisbane
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    2,225

    Id definitely go genuine if you can afford it, the cheap ones break incredibly easily aswell, where as the actual genuine ones are almost indestructable. Sure if you scrape everything theyll get scraped, but they wont crack like the cheapies.

    Car looks good btw

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Sydney, NSW
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    I got the cheap one too I think, fitted it tonight and it has a bit of a gap. Not as much as in the picture but it's noticeable. The lip was by JOM.

    With the lip installed, I noticed the piece of plastic on the drivers underside no longer lines up with the screw hole on the lip. Did you remove yours? I was thinking of just taking it off, but not sure.

  3. #23
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    Feb 2012
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    I didn't do anything to the bar, just heated up the clips and bent them up a bit so they catch properly. My lip is just held in with the clips and a few blobs of superglue!

  4. #24
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    Jan 2012
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    Sydney, NSW
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    Ah ok, i think it must just be an extra piece of plastic. It was screwed in with two hex screws in front of the drivers wheel.

    Took the rear spoiler off tonight, I reckon it looks better. Are you doing the same?

  5. #25
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    Feb 2012
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    No i'm going to leave my spoiler on. I kind of like the way it looks! Do you have a thread on your car? I'd be intersted to see what you've done to it.

    All I seem to be doing at the moment is fixing coolant leaks. I have done the crack pipe, thermostat housing, a temporary fix on the heater core until my new one arrives next month, and now I think the water pump is leaking!

    I also have a water leak into the boot which has killed the central locking pump. Got to get that sorted as no central locking is a pain!
    Last edited by Shortstuff; 31-12-2012 at 12:26 PM.

  6. #26
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    Feb 2012
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    Got a new problem tonight. My clutch pedal stayed on the floor when I changed gear. It felt like a broken clutch cable, but I can't seem to find a definite answer as to whether the VR6s are cable or hydraulic clutches.

    Can anyone let me know which they are? I'm really hoping the fix is as simple as replacing a cable!!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Parkinson / Brisbane
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    They're hydraulic have your brakes failed too? because they run of the same reservoir....

    See if the spring has failed, thats the thing that returns your pedel so more likely....

  8. #28
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    Feb 2012
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    I hope it is smothing like that. I still have brakes so hopefully nothing hydraulic. It feels exactly the same as when a clutch cable breaks, so I can still drive it by starting it in gear.

    I'll have a look in the light today and can hopefully see what's going on under the dash.

  9. #29
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    Feb 2012
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    So it ended up being the plate that holds the rod for the master cylinder on the end of the clutch pedal. The welds had broken.

    I decided to pull the pedal box out and replace the heater core at the same time.

    Here we go!




    That's about an hour and a half into it! Also got a water pump and coil pack to go on.
    Last edited by Shortstuff; 24-03-2012 at 10:47 AM.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Sydney, NSW
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    Same thing happened to mine two weeks after buying it with the clutch pedal on the ground, it ended up being the small plastic clip on the back of the clutch pedal

    Nice work with getting the dash out, my heating is ok at the moment, but no doubt I'll be doing the same one day. I don't have a thread yet due to laziness.

    When you took all that stuff out was there a blower for the a/c?

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