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Thread: Reco's on oil anyone?

  1. #11
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tubbs76 View Post
    Not sure how accurate the engine temp is on the tacho (is oil temp and engine temp the same?)but dependant on whether just putting around or pushing hard, ive seen it register anywhere from 98-108. I normally find im hovering around the 102ish mark
    Any vr6 (excluding track beaters) that goes over 102deg in oil is quite a bad thing !!
    You should give your cooling system a going over.
    As for the oil, stay in the 40,50 weight, I think you should go with something that's 1 thicker.
    Garage:
    VR6
    XR6
    R36

  2. #12
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    Jun 2013
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    Leichhardt, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by KKK VR6 View Post
    Any vr6 (excluding track beaters) that goes over 102deg in oil is quite a bad thing !!
    You should give your cooling system a going over.
    As for the oil, stay in the 40,50 weight, I think you should go with something that's 1 thicker.
    I've just done the cooling system including all new hoses, crack pipe, thermostat, thermostat housing, flanges, o rings, etc. I've noticed I get up to 108 on highway driving and norm around 100-102 just putting around. Thought would have been another way around? Having said this, due for a service, change of oil needed and def needs plugs. I'm holding out (trying to) another 6 odd weeks as I'm about to hit 200km and am getting timing chain done so it makes sense to do it all in one go..

  3. #13
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    By chance, in the parts shop on weekend and came across the Penrite. Very good value for money considering the cost of the other oils.

  4. #14
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    Jan 2011
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    If you do a bit more than just the chains, like bottom end bearing, lifters/springs/valve stem seals, then you can change over to a 15W-40 I've got in mind.
    That's when you decide to put just that little extra in and get a small treat with some better cams
    Garage:
    VR6
    XR6
    R36

  5. #15
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    Dec 2006
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    Kilsyth, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by KKK VR6 View Post
    That's when you decide to put just that little extra in and get a small treat with some better cams
    The parts themselves aren't too expensive... it's usually the cost (or time) to rip it all apart which makes it less attractive... but if it's going to be apart anyway...


    If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you. | Refer a Friend - AussieBroadband $50 Credit

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Leichhardt, NSW
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    Yeah, agree, but like everything guys, its a question of cash. Keep in mind i bought hthis car about 7 weeks ago knowing it needed a little bit of work but it was very clean with full books and receits from day dot. Ive already done the cooling components like crack pipe, thermostat housing, thermostat, o rings, flanges, hoses, etc..., Will def be doing all the usual thngs like oil change, filters, plugs, ignition leads, etc.. which im sure will make a huge difference. Dont get me wrong, apart from the rattly noise from the chains, the car drives great. I have no doubt this will make a massive difference. As far as getting all the other stuff done, Id have to speak to my old mans mate who's doing it up in thornleigh to see what he may charge to do it. I was thinking might be worth getting the head gsket done at the same time. Was thinking a Mk4 steel haed gasket to bump up compression to 10:5:1. I might see if i can have a chat to him and come to an agreence on a flat rate to do all the work. He's an old skool mechanic from europe who has his own shop but specialises in audis and vw's. So much so that he has a contract with Audi on the north shore and he goes in 2 days a week to work on cars for them... go figure..

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