AFAIK ABS isn't active till 7kph so when you get moving it may come back. Figers crossed it doesn't
I just had a go at fixing my own ABS module and so far the fault code seems to have cleared. I was getting the same rear right sensor error in vag-com as jmystaki which still persisted when i swapped the rear left and right sensors.
After I opened the unit with my trusty dremel I had a look and there seemed to be no visible problem with the joints so I touched up the solder on all the connector joints. I had a feeling it was one of those because of the sensor error. The module is back in my vr6, after clearing the codes with vag-com the faults are not returning and the abs light is staying off.
I won't be able to test it properly till I've fixed up some other stuff. I had an accident recently so my car's not on the road, it sure would have been nice to have the ABS working. lol
I'll get some photo's up when I have the chance
AFAIK ABS isn't active till 7kph so when you get moving it may come back. Figers crossed it doesn't
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Loose terminals on the multi plug is a biggie on these systems. Through time with age the terminals get loose and cause open and intermittant faults. Most clear but come back. Go over all the terminals squeeze them tight and it works wonders. Clean and use terminal spray also helps after adjusting the terminals, resistance is a big pain.
Cheers
Jmac
Alba European
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Well my car's finally back on the road and ABS seems to be working fine.
Jmac that's a pretty good point, I wish I tried that first then I might've been able to avoid all this trouble. I guess I'll never know
Here's a photo of what the unit looks like inside. Luckily it used a pcb and not a multi chip module which would have been an absolute pain.
Last edited by The_Hawk; 06-04-2009 at 09:14 AM.
ABS= Absolutely B*tchin' Skids!
not really.
dear god, that last picture, how much of that circuit board needs to be resoldered to be sure? if i have to resolder them all, the question is not whether i CAN do it but whether i can be BOTHERED to.
now not that i do a lot of burn outs, but, if im oneday planning on forced induction isnt ABS and more specifically EDL (electronic diff lock) going to be a little more of a hinderance than a an advantage? theoretically itll give me more traction, but as anyone who has experienced EDL on a VR6 will know, its harsh to say the least. i think i LSD would be better tractionwise.
-steve
Haha my soldering on circuit boards is ok but it isnt great lol. Will have to take a look at mine to see if i can get it working again.
I only touched up the solder on the connector's points
Only 23 soilder points need to be touched with the iron.
The 21 where the cable attaches to the board and 2 left of this where the pump motor attaches
That's it !
Mk3 2.0 8v Injected AGG
ok, so ive taken my time with actually getting the ABS control module out of the car. now that i have, how do i get the thing open so i can see the circuit board? i dont see the usual tiny tabs on the sides like other ones.i can almost pry it apart but i dont want to break the plastic case.
-Steve
I also went to Auto Electronics, what a great bloke, too bad he doesn't work on the rest of the car
I didn't remove mine so you can bump up the cost by a 1/3 or so. Highly recommend his services if you have ABS issues, I wasted my money fixing an abs sensor that likely wasn't faulty but the VAG codes make you think otherwise.
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