performance help?

**MadHouse** · 18-06-2012, 09:00 PM

The 262's on autotechs website are ~$300 from memory. If your going to look at getting these. I'll get some with you to reduce cost. I use preeny59 (chris at tprengineering) for autotech gear he is great.

As for exhaust, they are pretty restrictive. But I've heard pretty droney results from bolt on kits, plus by the time you get them here a local shop coud fab and equally good one up for less.

A ratio adjustment would be awesome. Sucks only being able to floor it for one gear and be doing the highest legal speed limit.[/QUOTE]

yeah im keen to get them mate could you orginise it. il pm you my number.

**MadHouse** · 18-06-2012, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by HaydEn

Schricks are something like $700
DRC's are about $500

The 262's on autotechs website are ~$300 from memory. If your going to look at getting these. I'll get some with you to reduce cost. I use preeny59 (chris at tprengineering) for autotech gear he is great.

As for exhaust, they are pretty restrictive. But I've heard pretty droney results from bolt on kits, plus by the time you get them here a local shop coud fab and equally good one up for less.

A ratio adjustment would be awesome. Sucks only being able to floor it for one gear and be doing the highest legal speed limit.

very keen mate il pm you my number if you can orginise them.

**Bug_racer** · 18-06-2012, 09:03 PM

Originally Posted by Water Boy

- Now i beleive the best mod for any VR6 wanting to go faster is reduce the final drive. VR6's have a very tall ratio box so designed for the autobahn etc. You can pull like 160km/h in 3rd gear. So getting it to accelerate faster with a final drive reduction would be the way to go.

167 actually before limiter cuts in

**Water Boy** · 18-06-2012, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by Bug_racer

167 actually before limiter cuts in

There ya go 167km/h. (My Mk3 CL struggles to pull that full stop)

**Ben J** · 18-06-2012, 11:33 PM

Amen, a much shorter final drive is definitely on my list when I finally get around to my vr6 swap, having never taken the vr6 out on a track when I owned it redline in third was as far as I ever took it. My CL struggles very hard to get close to 155 down the straights of the tracks we have here in qld, is one of the slowest cars ive ever driven haha

As far as handling goes, I'd replace all of your suspension bushings and such, with r32 rear control arm bushings being a nice easy upgrade there. I'd leave stock sway bar up front and add a nice thick rear sway bar. Some decent coilovers if you want to lower the thing or just decent shocks/springs if you want to keep it 4wd height and decent brake pads and such all around and it would be nice to drive. Power wise there is heaps you can do. Cold air intake, ported throttle body, 2.9 clone intake manifold, head porting, bigger valves, cams, mk4 headgasket, exhaust manifold porting, high flow cat, cat back exhaust, chip, underdriven pulleys, lightened fly wheel, 1.8t iat senson etc etc, list goes on and on depending on your budget.

**Ben J** · 19-06-2012, 09:29 AM

Have a read through here VWVortex.com - How to build a relatively inexpensive, reliable, powerful Vr6..

**HaydEn** · 19-06-2012, 10:19 AM

The vortex is a bad place. Gives to many bad ideas.

**Ben J** · 19-06-2012, 10:47 AM

Bad in the sence that after reading a few threads your bank balance suddenly starts to go into negative numbers? I seem to have that problem. Haha

**Hakan** · 19-06-2012, 11:52 AM

also while your on cams dont forget to get a cam chip which increases your rev limit and deletes speed limit. and since yours is a OBD1 i think you need to get it soldered in.