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Thread: "Oils ain't oils"

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    244

    Quote Originally Posted by MattyT View Post
    Whats the motul like? Always wanted to give it a go.
    Hard to say, its all Ive used in the car. It doesnt foul quickly and maintains good temp while giving the car a flogging Its also very well priced at my local Repco

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Guildford NSW
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    89
    Ive always usd BP3000, but only because i did an engine 'oil' test using the ball bearingtest & I found that both BP oils & Mobil multigrade were the only oils that kept the ball bearing rolling..others the bearing stopped & started burning/grinding. Also I could follow the grading of the BP products. The worst oil came from Castrol. Bazz

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Ah yes the ball bearing test. I found some article off a wrx forum that had all the common oils tested. All the big ones (mobil1, castrol, shell ultra, etc) all faired dismally. From memory, motul, redline, penrite faired well. Some weird American brand called Royal purple came out way, way ahead though. Accusations of the article being paid for by royal purple caught on like wildfire of course.
    1996 Golf VR6 Colour Concept Green

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Skye, Victoria
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    852
    Users Country Flag
    I've heard that too about royal purple but from everything i've seen it is actually a pretty good oil.

    I run Penrite HPR10 in my vr6, but i am thinking of changing oil grades and brands. My workmates at autobarn all swear by motul.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Kilsyth, VIC
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    Oils on my list of things to do. Motul seems to be pretty available so it might be the go, just have to source a decent oil filter.


    If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you. | Refer a Friend - AussieBroadband $50 Credit

  6. #16
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    Feb 2007
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Use the stock one, made by Hengst. BIG problems with aftermarket ones.
    1996 Golf VR6 Colour Concept Green

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Kilsyth, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyT View Post
    Use the stock one, made by Hengst. BIG problems with aftermarket ones.
    Thats the plan, but since I don't need an air filter and I already have the fuel filter I may just (sadly) buy the OEM one from McGrath Liverpool, unless of course I can find somewhere else to get it locally(ish).


    If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you. | Refer a Friend - AussieBroadband $50 Credit

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Kilsyth, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyT View Post
    Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10-30w here.
    Just picked up the 10-40w Fuchs GTO MW for $40 for 5L from Supercheap today, on special as part of the whoel Bathurst thing. Will see how it goes when I actually get it into the car.

    Sadly it was the last bottle otherwise I would have got a second one, after all the VR6 seems to drink a little oil so a little spare is always a good thing


    If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you. | Refer a Friend - AussieBroadband $50 Credit

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Not being an oil geek, but i wonder what the diff between 30w and 40w is??
    1996 Golf VR6 Colour Concept Green

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    244

    Not sure exactly what it means, but I know that you should run lower numbers in cooler climates and higher numbers in warmer climates. The first number (0, 5, 10, 15, 20) is the viscosity number. Lower numbers (30 or 40) for higher revving, turbo engines (maybe those with higher compression??) higher numbers for normal engines (50 or 60). For a psuedo-performance non-turbo engine like the VR6 I reckon 10 or 15 and W40 or W50 is about right for most climates in Oz. Coming into summer, I would look at using a 15-W50 rather than a 10-W40

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