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Thread: newbie 1997 Golf CL

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    16
    Users Country Flag

    newbie 1997 Golf CL

    Hi. just joined today in the hope of some immediate advice and a continuing interest.
    Purchased a 1997 CL Golf today for my daughter. 1.8 4 speed auto 5 door in silver.
    Number of things wrong that i need some advice about fixing -
    1) Overhead brake light works fine, but neither tailight brake lights work. Blinkers and reverse lights are okay. Looks like the entire tailight assembly needs to be removed to get to the other side of the diecast metal backing plate. Is this correct?
    Also - what is the black box with the rubber strap below the drivers side tailight?
    2) engine is great. When accelerating hard or uphill load, there is this very fine vibration through the accelerator pedal accompanied by a light vibration rattle. at no load or normal cruising its not there. Its not engine related and its not pinging. I'd say it was drive line - transmission or CV's/axles.
    Are these Golfs prone to CV problems, or perhaps there is a midway bearing on the longest axle that needs replacing - something like that. Any suggestions?
    3) one rear electric window not working, but click of a relay under dash can be heard. Is this going to be a switch - either the one on the door or the one under the radio?
    4) Radio not working but very sure its just the code. Screen lights up with #2 at top.
    5) timber or plastic cover over the spare type in the load area is missing. Are these readily available or cut my own from plywood?
    6) son drove it and says its easier to turn left than to the right. however, I couldn't feel any great difference. But I'm an old mechanic. Is this a known problem?

    Any helpfull advice would be greatly appreciated.
    best regards.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic
    Posts
    175
    Users Country Flag
    Black box with rubber strap is the central locking pump.
    Rear window sounds like a regulator issue. Pretty common on problem on that aged car. I had to replace some of my sons.
    Your other issues I can't comment on, sorry, but I'm sure someone on here will.
    2010 Candy White Golf GTI 5Dr. Manual, RNS-510, Bluetooth, Tints, GT-CX 18 Gloss Black Rims.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    16
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    1) Overhead brake light works fine, but neither tailight brake lights work. Blinkers and reverse lights are okay. Looks like the entire tailight assembly needs to be removed to get to the other side of the diecast metal backing plate. Is this correct?
    Also - what is the black box with the rubber strap below the drivers side tailight?
    In the better light of daytime I worked out the tailight assemblies. Press together the two tags and the backing plate comes off. (Hard to see at night!)

    Had some advice on the window. Seems like a nice weekend job to get the door trims off and see whats going on.

    Any advice on the other items?
    Anybody?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
    Posts
    42
    Neither of my Mk3's have a cover over the spare wheel. The carpet is the cover. Number 2 on the radio indicates the battery has been disconnected and you have 2 more attempts to get the security code right. Dealers or VW specialists can sometimes give you the radio code based on the VIN.

    Rob.
    Past: '77 VW Golf GLS Mk1 3-door, 2 x '95 VW Golf CL Mk3 3-door, 2015 Mk7 90 TSI Manual
    Present: 2018 VW Golf GTI Original Manual Mk7.5, 2006 VW Caddy Life Camper

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camira
    Posts
    455
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by ss2115 View Post
    Hi. just joined today in the hope of some immediate advice and a continuing interest.
    Purchased a 1997 CL Golf today for my daughter. 1.8 4 speed auto 5 door in silver.
    Number of things wrong that i need some advice about fixing -
    1) Overhead brake light works fine, but neither tailight brake lights work. Blinkers and reverse lights are okay. Looks like the entire tailight assembly needs to be removed to get to the other side of the diecast metal backing plate. Is this correct?
    Also - what is the black box with the rubber strap below the drivers side tailight?
    2) engine is great. When accelerating hard or uphill load, there is this very fine vibration through the accelerator pedal accompanied by a light vibration rattle. at no load or normal cruising its not there. Its not engine related and its not pinging. I'd say it was drive line - transmission or CV's/axles.
    Are these Golfs prone to CV problems, or perhaps there is a midway bearing on the longest axle that needs replacing - something like that. Any suggestions?
    3) one rear electric window not working, but click of a relay under dash can be heard. Is this going to be a switch - either the one on the door or the one under the radio?
    4) Radio not working but very sure its just the code. Screen lights up with #2 at top.
    5) timber or plastic cover over the spare type in the load area is missing. Are these readily available or cut my own from plywood?
    6) son drove it and says its easier to turn left than to the right. however, I couldn't feel any great difference. But I'm an old mechanic. Is this a known problem?

    Any helpfull advice would be greatly appreciated.
    best regards.
    2) Check the Transmission Mount to the Frame. The stock ones are a rubber mount filled with fluid, If you are looking at the engine it is located at the rear right. Mine has started to go (can tell by same symptoms and fluid around the Mount)

    Solution replace mounts. I strongly recommend not the OEM fluid ones. Try purchasing off www.dubaddiciton.com.au they will look after you.

    3) common problem if the plastic connector between the cable and mech is broken go to a dealership and request a new one. They have rectifyed the problem and are made with Metal connectors now... approx $150+

    4)Radio - Easier to replace than to find codes. Hit up Supercheap auto or something for just a head unit unless you want to pimp out her ride.

    5) No cover on spare wheel hole. Just go to bunnings and DIY. Or go to a German or European Wreckers near you. I'm in Qld and can't reccommend anyone down there but i'm sure that the NSW boys will help you.

    6) I have just done this repair today. Mine had to be replaced because of leaking power steering fluid and was a little bent. But the Steering Rack can either be replaced or fixed. Replacement from wreckers your looking at approx $225

    P.S I could be wrong and If I am someone will correct me. I'm only new to this but this is what I have come across and found to be the problem.

    Come on guys Lets see how much I have learnt..... rofl
    Rising Blue MY10 Passat R36
    BLACK '97 Mk3 GL 2.0L
    White '82 MK1 Cabrio 1.8L
    Vice-President - VWDCQ (VW Drivers Club of Queenland inc)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    16
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter

    Hey ironman - good call on the engine mount.
    Had my first crawl around the car today looking it over and had the wife pull the auto in/out of gear while I watched the engine.
    The large round mount at the front only moved 13mm at most and has a spongy action to it. However, the back one next to the gearbox thats easily oberved moves a good 50mm and no spring or soggyness at all. It also looks a bit wet - like a split rubber showing shiny rubber edges.
    Difficult to see the one under the manifold but I'll do both mounts anyway to be sure. No clunks though as I would have expected.

    Wanted to top up the power steering fluid as well and could see that most forum members insist on using the OEM VW stuff. Unfortunately, the VW dealer near me is out, but whilst there got the radio code over the counter which worked perfectly.

    New plugs fixed a poor cold starting problem. Old plugs had gaps the Queen Mary could pass through!

    So slowly sorting through the immediate things to fix.
    Appreciated your advice.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
    2) Check the Transmission Mount to the Frame. The stock ones are a rubber mount filled with fluid, If you are looking at the engine it is located at the rear right. Mine has started to go (can tell by same symptoms and fluid around the Mount)

    Solution replace mounts. I strongly recommend not the OEM fluid ones. Try purchasing off www.dubaddiciton.com.au they will look after you.

    3) common problem if the plastic connector between the cable and mech is broken go to a dealership and request a new one. They have rectifyed the problem and are made with Metal connectors now... approx $150+

    4)Radio - Easier to replace than to find codes. Hit up Supercheap auto or something for just a head unit unless you want to pimp out her ride.

    5) No cover on spare wheel hole. Just go to bunnings and DIY. Or go to a German or European Wreckers near you. I'm in Qld and can't reccommend anyone down there but i'm sure that the NSW boys will help you.

    6) I have just done this repair today. Mine had to be replaced because of leaking power steering fluid and was a little bent. But the Steering Rack can either be replaced or fixed. Replacement from wreckers your looking at approx $225

    P.S I could be wrong and If I am someone will correct me. I'm only new to this but this is what I have come across and found to be the problem.

    Come on guys Lets see how much I have learnt..... rofl

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