Mods to 95 MkIII Convertible?

davemoore · 19-11-2008, 09:47 PM

Having a 4 seater convertible is great for me and my dog for the summers in Oz. It's a tidy 121,000kms 95 MkIII 2.0 8v 5 speed manual.

But the convertible bit is the best and possibly the only good bit of it, by far. This is partly because I've been spoiled over the years by having new company cars every 3 months from the VW group in the UK in the past. These have included some great handling and responsive cars like SEAT Cupra Rs, Golf MkV GTis, Octavia vRSs, and a couple of interesting chipped Ibiza/Polo diesels, all of which were great fun to drive.

Now, I know I'll never get the poor old steam-driven girl to be anything like the above, but, so that I can stay loyal the VW group and avoid buying a 3 series, I wouldn't mind getting her to go, stop, handle and generally respond somewhat better.

In other places I've read that the only cost-effective engine mods are a better air filter system, bigger exhaust, a chip and maybe a 268 cam. Is this right? And worth maybe 135bhp compared with the stock 115? Or is 150bhp gettable without a turbo, as a turbo would rule out my son learning to drive in it?

Suspension-wise I guess I might be limited by it having a floppy convertible chassis? For sure, whenever you go over a bump the whole car wobbles and the doors rattle. Maybe strut braces and poly bushes would help? And/or springs and shockers and bigger wheels and tyres? Or will all or some of these make the body rattle about even more?

Is there an uprated set of engine mounts that'll stop the engine feeling like it's rocking so much as more throttle is added or released?

It got new front discs when I bought it so they'll last a bit yet, but will braided hoses usefully improve the pedal feel until I put better discs and pads on?

Is there a way of fitting a leather steering wheel to replace the plastic original? That would be the only cosmetic mod, by the way (unless bigger wheels will improve the handling), as I don't want the car to attract any uneccessary attention - it's insecure enough as a soft top!

The plan is to spend maybe $4-5k on improvements, then the car gets handed down in a couple of years as my son's first car and I'll need to find an alternative 4 seater convertible. I do fancy an M3. But then I also fancy winning the lottery!

Seriously, all real-life experiences of any of the above will be greatly appreciated to save me re-inventing the wheel.

Thanks in advance and sorry for such a long post.

**h100vw** · 19-11-2008, 10:21 PM

Now then Dave, welcome to the forum.

Must have been a tough job to give up!!

Does your steering wheel have and Airbag? If so a VR6 one would probably do you.

They don't seem to be into braided hoses down here. I'd just make sure you have good fluid and leave it at that.

You can still make a cab handle, they just shake a bit when you start pressing on. evorobin sells coilovers and can probably help you out.

Head work and a cam would improve the performance but 150 isn't a going to be that easy IMO. I had a 2 litre MK1 with TSR pack C head and 270 cam which produced 166hp.

You could look for an engine swap. An ABF 16V would take you straight to 150 and should plug straight into your fuse box. Fit the cable box too. You need the bigger clutch IMO, VW thought so too.

If you update your profile with a location, we can send you somewhere that'll sort you out.

Cheers

Gavin

**rayray086** · 19-11-2008, 10:37 PM

Originally Posted by davemoore

In other places I've read that the only cost-effective engine mods are a better air filter system, bigger exhaust, a chip and maybe a 268 cam. Is this right? And worth maybe 135bhp compared with the stock 115? Or is 150bhp gettable without a turbo, as a turbo would rule out my son learning to drive in it?

Suspension-wise I guess I might be limited by it having a floppy convertible chassis? For sure, whenever you go over a bump the whole car wobbles and the doors rattle. Maybe strut braces and poly bushes would help? And/or springs and shockers and bigger wheels and tyres? Or will all or some of these make the body rattle about even more?

Is there an uprated set of engine mounts that'll stop the engine feeling like it's rocking so much as more throttle is added or released?

It got new front discs when I bought it so they'll last a bit yet, but will braided hoses usefully improve the pedal feel until I put better discs and pads on?

Is there a way of fitting a leather steering wheel to replace the plastic original? That would be the only cosmetic mod, by the way (unless bigger wheels will improve the handling), as I don't want the car to attract any uneccessary attention - it's insecure enough as a soft top!

The plan is to spend maybe $4-5k on improvements, then the car gets handed down in a couple of years as my son's first car and I'll need to find an alternative 4 seater convertible. I do fancy an M3. But then I also fancy winning the lottery!

Welcome to the forums! Not many Cabrio owners here so good to have ya.

Your query about the engine is what I read about also - basically to draw more power from the 8V is to get mild cams and complement it with increased intake flow and exhaust flow. You won't see much increase in power though. You're always limited with the 8V until you throw a lot of money into it or go for forced induction. Probably others can help you out here as I really don't know much about the engines.

The wobbling is a sign of worn shocks so they might be due for replacements! I've recently changed my suspension for Hottuning coilovers from evorobin on the forums, and they're fantastic for the price. Ride height can be adjusted and on the contrary to popular opinion about coilovers, their not overly harsh. Exchanging strut mounts for polyurethane will firm up your ride as well, but going for stock rubber mounts or uprated rubber mounts are sufficient for daily use. I've got heavy duty rubber mounts on the front and polyurethane mounts on the rear. THe rear squeaks a little on bumps, but overall, I'm glad I changed them. Oh, and the rattling in your doors, that's a Mk3 thing

As a Mk3 owner, you just have to live with it!

As for wheels and tyres, it's more a matter of styling in my opinion. Going for bigger diameter wheels will mean you'll need to run lower profile tyres, and the general opinion is that the ride would be harsher due to the thinner and tougher sidewall that come with running performance tyres. That said, swapping out the tyres only for performance ones will improve handling. For wheels, bigger isn't always better. Theoretically, you'll lose performance by going for a heavier combination of wheels+tyres. I find that 15" or 16" is the best compromise for looks and performance.

For uprated engine mounts, PM Tim on the forums

With the brakes, I find that with a good brake bleed, pedal feel is improved. I love the way my pedal feels as I ease on the brake. Easily controllable without being overly sensitive like most new cars I've driven.

If you can find a 98/99 Cabrio (the ones with a Mk4 front design) wreck, they have a very nice 3 spoke leather steering wheel. Similar to the ones on the Mk4 Golf and B5 Passat. They fit straight on to the Mk3. Otherwise, like Gavin mentioned, the VR6s came with the same steering wheel design, albeit in leather trim.

If I were you, I'd do it up the suspension first before anything. Being an 8V 2.0L, it's never going to go places quickly, but you can go around corners!

davemoore · 20-11-2008, 12:04 AM

Thanks guys for your quick and consistent replies.

I'm on the Mornington Peninsula south east of Melbourne.

Yes, it has an airbag - 2 even, so no flippin glovebox.

Suspension sounds like coilovers, 16s with decent rubber, engine/gearbox mounts, and poly bushes all round ('cos I want to fit stuff and forget it), and I'll have to live with it being crashier if I ever find a bumpy road (surely not!).

Is there any gain from a front strut brace on a cab? Or even a rear one like in the Octavia? Or any other bracing?

I guess the last and maybe most important thing suspension wise is to have someone set it up properly? - so who?

Is there anything that can be done to cut down the rattling from the doors (sounds a bit like the window mechanisms to me)?

Anyone got a MkIV leather steering wheel (for airbag) for sale?

Or a set of 16s with tyres?

Also has anyone got a good 16v motor as I suppose that'd be 150bhp with just the intake and exhaust sorted and no real need for cams? Otherwise I'll just do the simple things to the 8v as it runs well now and max power isn't the objective.

**jayjay** · 20-11-2008, 12:12 AM

there should be a few ABFs kicking around (2.0 16v) that would just be a matter of transplant and go in the mk3 cabrio.. alternatively, you could find a wrecked vr6 and just swappsies everything.. (not as much work as you think)

wheels are especially easy to find on ebay. most people selling them here or new ones will want good money. ebay is usually quite bountiful.

**rayray086** · 20-11-2008, 07:09 AM

You can still fit a lower glovebox (goes under the passenger airbag) in place of the pencil tray. You can find them on a late-model Mk3 Golf (1996-199

and most will set you around ~$120 from a wreckage.

I've read that with most modern cars, there's sufficient bracing with the frame that it doesn't call for a strut tower brace. That said, there are some on this forum that have noticed differences when fitting a front strut brace. Another popular upgrade to sharpen the handling is to fit sway bars on the rear, as our cars came installed with none. Whiteline has a rear sway bar in their catalogue and are good value from what I hear. Otherwise you can look towards Europe or America for sway bars (Eibach and Neuspeed being two of the more popular choices overseas). Fitting a thicker sway bar on the rear gives the car a general oversteer tendency, whereas a thicker sway bar on the front gives the car an understeer tendency.

Depending on what suspension equipment you get, I can't see why not you can install everything yourself that have it aligned at a good suspension place (some of the Melbournians here can help you out with that). Cheap coilovers are usually not damper adjustable so you basically install them in and go. Ride height adjustment for a street car is more for looks than anything else, so you can choose how low you want your car to look. Some sway bars have adjustments like the Neuspeed, but even with that you're limited to 3 different settings only, which I believe you can adjust and test out yourself.

You could lay down Dynamat (or some kind of noise and vibration damper material) on your doors to limit the shaking. I've done it moreso for better sound quality from my speakers but it's helped in reducing a little of the rattling.

And I just want to make it clear that you'll want a Mk3.5 Cabrio steering wheel, NOT a Mk4 steering wheel! They may look the same but the way they're hooked up is different!

Check the classifieds periodically for wheels and engines, or alternatively put up an ad in the Parts Wanted section if you're desperate!

davemoore · 20-11-2008, 08:59 PM

Sorry, forgot to mention that Dave with spanner creates the same result as Titanic with iceberg.

So any thoughts on good spannermen who'll give genuine advice and not rip me off on the Mornington Peninsula or South East Melbourne?

**evorobin** · 20-11-2008, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by rayray086

I've recently changed my suspension for Hottuning coilovers from evorobin on the forums, and they're fantastic for the price. Ride height can be adjusted and on the contrary to popular opinion about coilovers, their not overly harsh. Exchanging strut mounts for polyurethane will firm up your ride as well, but going for stock rubber mounts or uprated rubber mounts are sufficient for daily use.

Glad you're happy Ray. Caught up with Lorenz today who has a rear sway bar in his mk3 which has definately helped the handling so I'd also look at one of those.

Cam, cam gear, chip + K&N will help free up a few horses and make the car rev. Nothing compared to the turbo shove of your previous cars though Dave.