Mal's Mk3 Build.

**schoona** · 13-09-2009, 07:53 AM

Originally Posted by rayray086

Find a 13/16" spark plug socket - they should fit over the 21mm nut and sit on it snugly. Spark plug sockets usually have a hex cut-out on the head of the socket so you can tighten it with a spammer while you hold onto the allen key.

Be gentle and make sure the allen key is held down - too much twisting and you can break that part.

Also, deep O-ring spanners do the job pretty well too, if you can find one in the 21mm size. My new mounts (HD ones from GAP) came with smaller-sized nuts so my smaller cheapo L-bent spanners from SuperCheap could be used. They come in handy that's for sure.

On a side note, GAP sells a tool for that if you want to actually torque it down properly - http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools...spension+tools

My first time was full of strife and headaches. I've since done it many times and believe me, it's actually not too hard!

Thanks heaps Ray

We used a spark plug socket, held onto htat with a 13/16" ringy. I didnt have a long shanked 7mm allen key, so using cheap crescent things for all things obscure, we ran that through the guts of the socket and cracked it up the top. Can't remember the exact solvent we used to help try and loosen them, but it was still ****** tight. Ie A bloke working each bar to crack.

I just got my tools for work, and the Ringy's dont have an angle offset enough to get into the top of the strut.

Is it neccessary to torque it down properly? I can see the answer as yes. But figure if everything is rigid, installed correctly etc that all would be good? Probs of overtightening either the back nuts or the front nylocks?

Either way gotta go for a tool run soon to get an allen key to suit the new fronts. Then I can get the things in and smile!

**schoona** · 13-09-2009, 07:55 AM

Originally Posted by jayjay

do you have any friends with a rattle gun/air compressor? wd-40 them and then zip them off if you can get access to one.

Hey Jay, we were spinning the drawbar that goes throught to the cylinder of thestrut, so unless it gave a massive shock to help crack them im no sure that would be any benefit. In any case we only have one left to crack (to re-use the rubber bush) and then its all install work

Thanks

**Golf Loon** · 13-09-2009, 08:48 AM

I`d just use a rattlegun, but have used the sparkplug socket trick as described by Ray when doing it at home.

Reusing the suspension tops maybe a false saving as the bearings inside collapse and the ruber compresses. I always fit new strut top mounts with new suspension.

Good Luck with it.

**rayray086** · 13-09-2009, 10:53 AM

I have been lazy a couple of times and have tightened them with the rattle gun too (on 2nd setting). The torque spec for that top nut is 44 ft lb which for a backyard mechanic is pretty tight! I usually use the full length of the ring spanner and tighten as much as I can. Too loose and it can further loosen when on the car and cause some tapping noises when driving cos the mounts shifting up and down. A friend was experiencing this.

**Tim** · 13-09-2009, 10:53 AM

the way i did it without the use of the proper tool was to buy a $2 el cheapo socket from bunnings and then grind two flat sides onto it. Easy to tighten up with a nice big adjustable wrench whilst holding the shaft of the strut with a 7mm allen key.

**Tim** · 13-09-2009, 10:59 AM

also as Loon has said. Get some new strut mounts and bearings. VR6 pounds them with stock suspension and moreso when you put her in the weeds

I replaced mine when my VR6 had about 130k on it. And the newer ones were around 10mm taller. Same again when I replaced them again after another 75k with my coilovers.

**schoona** · 13-09-2009, 06:19 PM

Well "all done" now. I need to get this sleeve made up for the right rear tat was not supplied. Hopefully i can do that tomorrow.

I will take a photo (prob tomorrow, it's been a long weekend!) of how the fronts sit inside the engine bay. Doesn't look "right" I dont think.

Sure im happy to do the mounts/rubber/bearings, just am going to be working 6 days from now so this was my chance to get them in.

We used a 13/16" spark plug socket and ground an 8mm allen key down to ~7.3mm to fit the new struts.

The standard tyre size 205/50 also looked to be VERY close to the springs, with a whee;l alignment hopefully they will sit correct and have clearance

I actually wound the fronts up, i set them 37mm from the bottom and the rears 50mm from the bottom.

Can't believe I'm going to say this, it does need to be raised

Enough yapping, Have more pics coming from a mate later:

When i got them:

With 3 fat guys in the back to see how it might look:

At one stage, in the process of.....:

Front gap (before I raised it):

**schoona** · 13-09-2009, 06:21 PM

As it sits now:

Home:

Again:

K&N pod, need to get my box made up next

**schoona** · 13-09-2009, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by Tim

also as Loon has said. Get some new strut mounts and bearings. VR6 pounds them with stock suspension and moreso when you put her in the weeds

I replaced mine when my VR6 had about 130k on it. And the newer ones were around 10mm taller. Same again when I replaced them again after another 75k with my coilovers.

Will look into it. Best bet? GAP? ECS?

Needs to come up if I want your euro lip on it too!!!