After my auto 096 decided to short itself out, fused the bunch of wires at the passenger door sill and almost burn down my car, I bought a 98 Golf ABF manual halfcut. It started at the halfcut shop with an external fuel pump. I did the same when it was delivered. I cut a normal key and tried starting, it just cranked and wouldn't start. Placed the supplied chipped key (1 & only) near the barrel and it can start with the duplicate. Took out the transponder ring, hanging below the steering and placed the chipped key within the ring, it started with the duplicate. All this is done with the stand alone fuel pump.
Now I have finished transferring the whole front end over to my 93 Vento today while maintaining my ignition barrel and steering column, putting the chipped key and ring inside the dash (they're in and on the halfcut ignition barrel): it won't start.
Funny thing was when I was checking for sparks, with a spare plug in the wire touching the manifold, she fires up on 3 cylinders. Oh and the fuel gauge was cut off during cranking. Then the battery was drained. Can't imagine how frustrated I was coz I have to go Singapore tomorrow till Friday and can't work on the car. Was hoping to get her fired up today. I double check my connections which was all labeled. I do not have VAGCOM.
After searching the internet for the last 2 hrs, there's no clear cut answer to an immobilizer bypass. Only mentioned it cuts the fuel supply and only be sensing the chip for about 2 seconds, the key can be removed thereafter and normally with an immobilizer problem, the engine will fire up for 2 seconds.
I am confused as I was using an external stand alone pump direct to battery, the immobilizer will not be able to interrupt the fuel supply. How come the halfcut won't start with the duplicate key? Now the car won't start, just crank. Is it something else? Crank sensor?
Looking thru the wiring diagram and should it be an immobilizer issue, is it possible to substitute the ECU's pin#43 (11-14v) with a key on supply to pin 85 of the fuel pump relay? Will the other functions of the ECU like ignition advance be working properly?
Why isn't there a negative supply to the relay? I thought all relays need a negative feed.
Looking closely at the wiring diagrams during outstation, the fuel pump relay supply positive to both the fuel pump and the injectors. I guess that's how the halfcut won't start with the duplicate key. The feed from ECU Pin #6 to G1/3 to Fuel Pump Relay is actually a negative. Was thinking of supplying a negative to it to try to bypass the immobilizer once I got back and there wasn't any feedback/suggestion to my thread.
After work today, decided to double check all my connections, so removed the dash and disconnected all the fuse box wires and start over to plug everything in. And you know what : she started after that. Haha. A real mystery. The only thing I didn't hook up this time was the seat belt buzzer.
The meter "CAT" light is blinking and brake light is on. The halfcut came with a braided cable (with 2 wires inside) hanging below the crossmember, what is that connected to? Share the same socket holder on the rear mounting with the O2 sensor. Can I live without it?
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