I think my VR6 coil pack is going...

**decksla** · 22-10-2008, 09:27 AM

so doing more research on my starting issue, i think i've narrowed it down to the coil pack.

i read some threads on the forum and a person with a similar issue found it to be the coil pack (though his was a 2L).

anyway, here is a summary of my issue

a. car starts up strong (it doesnt sound like the battery is struggling in the slightest), but doesn't kick over. takes about 3-6 turns of the key for the engine to come round.

b. sometimes a blip of the throttle helps at the start, but ive found it to be co-incidental as im assuming the engine is getting some heat / power / whatever into it, then it eventually turns over

c. once car is idling, everything is apples. driving no problem, power seems to be there. maybe slightly slower, but i could be attributing that to the extra weight of the stereo and a full tank.

d. trying to start the car after it has already been driven is easier to turn over. say 1 or 2 turns of the car.

was going to originally replace the battery, but it starts very strong so i think it still has much life.

have had the chance to do the water spray test as of yet.

just wondering if anyone has any other ideas on how to test the coil?

also, wheres a good place to buy one second hand (can get them for $500 new and have seen them for $300 on ebay from the US).

cheers
dEx

**sydVR6** · 22-10-2008, 09:34 AM

Sure, sounds like it could be the coilpack.

Does it ever misfire under acceleration or stall? Occasionally these symptoms will accompany.

If the coilpack has hairline cracks in it (which allow moisture in), you should be able to see them.

A lot of people take the coilpack off, dry it out in direct sunlight or in a low temperature oven, and then epoxy the outside of the unit to re-seal the cracks. This can be helpful if the coils are not too far gone.

**decksla** · 22-10-2008, 03:55 PM

no misfires as such or stalling.

car drives fine.

ive already ordered one from the US which was ALOT cheaper than down here.

at the same time ill see if my one is salvagable.

**al'svr6** · 26-10-2008, 10:27 PM

Hi Mate ,
Just changed my coil pack ,
Best way to test go from 1st gear to 3rd gear and put the accelerator flat stick it should shudder meaning when the car is under loading either the leads are gone or coil pack.
Hope this helps
Al

**decksla** · 03-11-2008, 05:54 PM

got my coil pack from the US.
proceeded to install it, without a word of a lie, i barely tightened the bolts and the housing cracked.
im sending it back!

I'm still thinking it MIGHT be the coil, but now maybe a fuel thing at the start. how do i tell if my pumps on the way out? the car still take around 2-4 turns with accelerator pumping to get it going. once its running its fine. warm start is 'ok' revs drop, but it eventually catches and idles.

ideas?

**Tim** · 03-11-2008, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by decksla

got my coil pack from the US.
proceeded to install it, without a word of a lie, i barely tightened the bolts and the housing cracked.
im sending it back!

I'm still thinking it MIGHT be the coil, but now maybe a fuel thing at the start. how do i tell if my pumps on the way out? the car still take around 2-4 turns with accelerator pumping to get it going. once its running its fine. warm start is 'ok' revs drop, but it eventually catches and idles.

ideas?

the fuel pumps normally get really noisy long before they die. Once theyre really on the way to death the car loses power at high revs. Your problem sounds more like a cold start issue. Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor yet? or scanned the car with a vagcom at least to see if there are any codes?

**decksla** · 04-11-2008, 06:59 AM

Originally Posted by Tim

the fuel pumps normally get really noisy long before they die. Once theyre really on the way to death the car loses power at high revs. Your problem sounds more like a cold start issue. Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor yet? or scanned the car with a vagcom at least to see if there are any codes?

nah not yet. anyone got a vagcom they can plug in for me?

i think its a starting issue in general as even when its warm, the car will start first time but before it kicks over the revs will drop as though it will stall, but then pick itself up and idle.

could it be the leads? still thinking it may be electrical but once it starts, everythings apples. i originally thought battery then not. it has heaps of power on turn key (its 660cca) but not kicking it over.

whats the process with fuel delivery on start up? im thinking it could be a problem there somewhere....