Heater core slight issue

[mattross]

I am doing my Air Box felt (A/C not cooling like it should felt has come off, all air passing the HC) & checking my Hcore. I got it out and there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it, it was a semi blocked drain plug, plus water was getting in the system thru the cabin filter as the rubbers on the windshield water deflectors had gone...see first photo on page 1 http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l561/thepsychopomp/CAR/
The plus is I get to fix the airbox flaps/vents and the felt coverings.... and I have the dash cluster out to do some LED swap outs.
It is a bit of a nightmare, just when you think its out, 2 more bolts, more screws, sheer bolts, etc etc.... if I ever meet a VW engineer he is getting a flying headbutt.
But now its out, I think it will be half the time to get back in (fingers crossed). I've dumped raw photos here from page 7 on
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l561/thepsychopomp/CAR/
ALSO: As I never want to have to do one again, I've devised the solution to this problem so I never have to do it again (unless the HC goes). When replacing I ran a 2 core wire thru the firewall from the centre console (for future button) to the heater core engine bay side then added 1 m. This will be to control a solenoid value I'll put in line with the 2 heater core pipes and will control the flow into the heater core. Will need a 12V 3 way solenoid of some type that can take heat temp to 100degrees, I found a few candidates, they might restrict the flow though as they are small sizes.
http://www.partsgeek.com/pdproducts/MCS/07026423.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf &utm_term=74809+Four+Seasons+Heater+Valve&utm_cont ent=mcs&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom
http://heaterspromotions.co.cc/four-seasons-74809-heater-valve/
http://home-and-garden.become.com/four-seasons-74809-heater-valve--compare-prices--sc1115466157
http://www.4s.com/Online%20Catalogs-eCatalog/Content.aspx
So normally the valve would allow flow thru the heater core (normal), button/solenoid would divert it back and bypass the HC all together. Car might run a bit hotter, but that should be sorted with a lower temp thermostat and lower temp Coolant sensor/switch to match
An alternative would be to wire it in with the recycle switch (which switches on the Solenoid valve near the coolant bubble), but then it would only work on fresh air or recycle how ever you wire it.

[VR28LT]

I was quoted 2K FYI. Seems very doable so might be worth having a go at it yourself.

2k ? thats some big $

you probably were quoted that amount of coin because they didn't want to the job

search around im sure you can get it done for around the 1k mark

[mattross]

I trawled the internet and found amny DIY and helping files..... if you want PM me and i'll email them to ya, they helped me immensly...

[Zalemate]

what Mountain will you be going to? snowboard or ski ?

Will be heading to falls every weekend and hotham when we can!

[Zalemate]

Thannks for all the info guys, ill be heading around to a few places next week to get some quotes to just see what they rekon.. will contact Golf Loon looking for a new heater core..

keen to look into a DIY but ill get some quotes aswell..

[The_Hawk]

It's been a few years since I had mine done. I considered the DIY... then paid Wolfsburg Motors to do the job for me.


We are going back a ways now, but from memory it was ~$850 or so all up and it was done in a day. It's one of those sucky jobs, where it's 90% labour charges, but that's the way it goes. If you need to have anything else put through the firewall (like an AMP cable or similar) now is the time to do it while it's all apart. Also make sure you have the recirculate flap for the AC hooked up properly when it's done too... Also probably worth checking out the cruise control lines (if you have cruise) while it's all apart.

[mattross]

I just completed it 10 mins ago (well still just have the small vents to go, awaiting glue to set).... ~6hrs to get out fully and clean and glue the new flap lining for setting but i took my time and photos and cleaned it all out, taped things up, fixed up some wiring, did some gauge cluster testing). 3hrs going slowly to get it all in. In between O/Night waiting for the glue to set on all the new flap linings, plus i wired up a bunch of LED's in the back of the Climate controls, cig lighter light, recycle switch, etc).

Overall, after i got it all out, i thought it wasn't worth the effort and its very frustrating. Maybe a solenoid valve in the heat core lines to bypass the HC might be a temp solution until you wanna go thru with it. After putting it all back in, i say now i'd do it again for sure, Getting it back in was easy enough, and now the air/climate controls now work a treat & all my climate lights work (some LED's are probably too bright, i'll be buys some trim pots to adjust the brightness.

If anyone is doing one, feel free to ask me anything about it...
I used:
· new flap lining - Clark Rubber - $11
· Kwik Grip 130 degrees - Bunnings - $8
· Weatherstrip felt - $6 Bunings
· Pope Hose connectors - 65c bunnings
· LED's & Resistors - $7 ebay http://www.bennyinternational.com/lib/ledcalculator.html

All optional: Cable ties, goo remover/cleaner & rags, solderless terminals, gaffer tape, silicon sealant, G12, heatercore firewall seal, a vacuum cleaner..... Your favorite booze, a stacked iPod, a good set of sockets & extensions/torx bits/Allen keys/screwdrivers/pliers/a Mirror/torch, an area to lay out all the parts......
These posts helped me:
This one was probably the best, not as many photos as others, but the words were pretty spot on
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4682895-MKIII-Heater-core-DIY

Good, heaps of pics, but words not great, some things were wrong or I did them differently
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4031574-heater-core-replacement-1996-Jetta-2.0L-ABA-engine-with-A-C

Good bit on what to do once you get it all out (relining flaps), and link to repair if you snap out the plastic tabs
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2355434/page1

For a VR6 but helped
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f47/change-heater-core-35054.html

Handy if you don’t have a Bentley
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f47/recycled-air-jammed-28141.html

For MK2, but very similar
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20448.0

Also helped
http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?messageID=79244&

[pimpossible]

Guys I started pulling the dash away today but got stock at the point of actually removing the main dash console. I've been following this mostly but come step 52 and I have no idea what he's doing. Any advice? All the interior screws holding the dash are out but it won't budge...

[mattross]

There are 2 bolts (with attached washers) holding the dash in located in the " upper engine bay", 10mm, only can be accessed from under the Windshield Water deflectors (one beside the pollen filter, the other hidden behind the windscreen wiper linkages. You'll have to take the wipers off, its easy, just mark them beforehand. The one behind the wipers you can reach with a long attachment on the socket, or if you have a long arm.
Chock your dash up, and disconnect any wires you can (speakers/center console) as it might fall as you take them off.
Its also easier to get it out with two people and/or if you take off the steering wheel & indicator stalks

Once you get to the climate control box, there are two more nuts holding that on in the engine bay, they are hidden behind the heat sheilding on the back of the fire wall (behind the exhaust/throttle body), you need to peel it back to find them.

See photo 2 & 3 http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...eater-core-DIY

[pimpossible]

Cheers, exactly what I needed to know. I'll jump on it tomorrow (;