Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
Hey mate..to confirm, the whole cooling system has been changed over a period of about 6 months. First with t stat, t stat housing, etc... Silicone hoses came about 3 months ago. New aluminum radiator a few weeks ago. All was running smoothly until I flushed and went g13. Temp sender has been checked and all ok. T stat opening properly, no leaks, etc...fan coming on when should..driving around today in 40c.. Coolant temp wouldn't drop below 105c and oil temp through the roof at 110c. Didn't even have my air on....go figure
Yes, agree, 40C+ days are hard on any car. the issue is im still getting higher temps overall even on cooler days. Just seems coincidental that has only statred occuring since G13. I was up at 5.30am this Morning, drained system, pull out radiator, all hoses, expansion tank, etc.. gave a good flush and re fitted with G13 again, bled etc... will run again for a few days and see what happens. temps are mid 20's today and will drive later.. if no good, ill re do again with my old brand of coolant.. if anyone interested, I shall post within the week of update and findings..
Tubbs - I cant see anywhere if you said you changed the water-pump?
Just thinking, if you have a plastic impeller water pump, maybe the coolant change had an effect and caused it to fail (lower viscosity (i.e "thicker" fluid) requiring more torque to spin the impeller maybe?)
I recently fixed up a mk4 for my sister - when we bought it it was overheating - temps going up to about 115ish just doing not much, which I (fortunately) correctly guessed was a failed plastic water pump.
I dont know of any first hand accounts, but I'm sure I've read somewhere about coolant types having some effect on the longevity or otherwise of plastic water pump impellers and their shaft matings.
Just a thought.
PS - the kind of failures of plastic pumps I've seen before, include the impeller just coming loose on the shaft so that it will turn, but not as fast as it should.
'07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
'98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
'99 A4 Quattro 1.8T
Hi Tubbs,
hope you sort out your issue with the higher temps. I am interested with regards to your feedback. It would be of concern to all of us if it was a bad batch or problem with the G13. As I mentioned in my previous post, I have run G13 without issues. I did get slightly higher temps (just over 90 indicated in stop/go traffic, aircon on) when we were experiencing those 40+ days but returned to normal operating temps when it dropped below that.
Have a good Christmas and New Year.
Hi Fred,
Cheers for that. Will def keep you posted. I have spoken with some others who have also mentioned higher temps in booth coolant and oil since g13. WishiI was getting just over 90 with air con on. I was getting 100-110 without air con. Could only imagine the results if I ran it.
Chat soon and merry Xmas to u Also.
Hey mate. The pump was changed about a year ago. The pump I replaced with also has a metal impeller. Doing timing chains in about 3 months so when motor out, planning on replacing again with all other usual bits. Prob no need seeing as not that old but seeing as motor will be out...may as well do it. Also have a new electric pump to replace current one as well. Not saying couldn't be an issue, stranger things have happened......
I've experienced a similar thing in my MK2 (running a 2.0L 8v, yes I know its... different).
Oil temps NEVER went above 96 then all of a sudden, I started getting oil temps around 110 steady.
Replaced EVERY component in the cooling system, still sits steady at 104-110.
Variables that I imagine could effect temp would be,
-Coolant and mixture ratio
-Engine oil
-Temp sensors
-Electrical connections (earths)
-Differences in tolerances in parts (like GLDGTI said)
-Possessed Volkswagen's
MK2 - *Insert list of dealer purchased extra's/standard features here*
80 series - The MK2's BIG, Sooty, polar opposite...
HAHAHA
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