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I removed all the rubber there and filled the spot between the glass and metal with black silicone.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen8512
All it does is stop leaves and **** from collecting inside the rain tray..which actually still drains away so only an issue if you park under trees frequently.
yeah hoping I can find another local VW to get the cups from. of if there is a driveshaft from a different car that can go in.Quote:
Originally Posted by cliftronix
hmmm dunno how id find the part number for it, will do some researchQuote:
Originally Posted by AKA VR6
Front ones are built into the rain tray, had to buy both sides to replace mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen8512
I'll let you know if I have any luck with the rear window seal
hmmm could work. id rather a genuine gasket thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by stefcio007
so was going to have a crack at doing the valve stem seals with the head on.
ended up pulling it off to have a look at a few other things.
sure enough, no seals at all. idiot.
went to re build the head and realised the tool (second one I got) was still a terrible design even though it was meant for a VR. bit of drilling and customising and had it set up nicely based on the concept of the one I had seen at volkwerk.
so found a little bur and dint on the side of the head that wasnt helping seal up the cooling housing.
bit of filing and got it sealing much better, still a tiny leak though when cold. so hopefully some sealant will help finish it off.
head back on, new gaskets and bolts thanks to Dean. Timed, new rocker cover gasket (was supplied the wrong one first time).
Car came to life, once it had blown/burn all the oil out of the cylinders and exhaust it was clean as! no more puffs of smoke at idle.
So wiring in the rear doors has cracked in the usual spot killing power windows and mirrors through out the car. back in bairnsdale on the weekend I found the golf loom was in good nick so have those ready to go in.
a CV boot has split just from sitting in the one spot the last year or so.
Hopefully CV boot, windscreen, and coolant leak is all thats left for roady
Yewwww!Quote:
Originally Posted by dylan8
Between my 90000 projects and work if you need a hand give me a buzz xoxox
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 using Tapatalk
will do dude, cheers!!
went to swap the wiring in the doors, turns out where the vacuum line runs through the plug is different.
no worries I thought as I also grabbed the lines from the golf too.
tried to remove the old vac line and cracked the housing behind the door hand, bugger! not sure where to go next. so frustrating.
Might block that line for the moment and leave the door locked, atleast see if I can get the power windows working again.
not much happening lately as I've been focused on sorting a few things for the bora
so have replaced all the rear door wiring and vacuum lines and the housing on the rear door I cracked.
windows all work now via key in the door. still no dice via the switches.
pulling the dash apart again to go searching.
Still have a very small coolant leak from the side of the head when cold where I cant get one bolt to torque up. going to either helicoil it or tap it one size bigger like we did on one of the other bolt holes in the same housing.
Noticed my air box was missing a sensor and plug. found a second VR airbox I had at my parents, this one with the sensor. hopefully will run better again once i fire it up.
Picked up a second phase 1 grill, some late model looking tails and a VR space saver with original conti tyre
still struggling with my electric windows and mirrors.
wiring has been replaced to the back doors as both were split
windows roll up and down via key in the door, so motors work and make me think power and ground is ok.
from what I understand on my multimeter im getting good power and ground to the switches
switches light up (front two brighter then the rear two? but seems to be pretty common)
anyone else got any suggestions? getting pretty desperate
So I had to fix my left rear window for a second time. I did a proper fix this time using strong cable ties and a different securing design. While testing different solutions I accidentally had a cable tie get stuck in the cog with the nut going past the "tell the motor I have reached the end" bit. Could not use any window buttons to move it at all. Only thing that would move it up and down was the key in door trick. Eventually it reset itself and the buttons would work again.
Anyway, that doesn't really help.
I noticed in the wiring for the motor plug there are what look to be small inline fuses, maybe those go to the switches, not sure, maybe they need to be good for the switches to work?
Was this new wiring working before?
I have no idea where the processing is done for the switches but they send a small signal (only a few milliamps or so) to a micro-controller (inside the motor?) which tells it what it should do, that could also be broken somewhere or your resistance in the cabling is too high causing the signal to be lost along the way. Old cables sometimes increase in resistance.
Ahhh didn't think of the window safety reset.
That's a great idea has the car has had the battery on and off plenty of times and windows could have been left down /unplugged when it was taken off
Getting a mate who understands how to use a multimeter a bit better then me to come have a gander too so will see if we can test the resistance.
Cheers for the help/ideas!
Lowerit
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