Car starting different after stereo upgrade

[decksla]

hey all

decided on a cheap sound upgrade consisting of 6.5 splits and matching rears as well as a 12in bass tube with built in amp (all fusion).

all wired up and working, the car now has a slight hesitation in starting, sometimes requiring a blip of the throttle to get the thing idling after firing it up.

is this expected? its never happened on any other install ive done. apart from that works fine, car drives normal, and the sound is HUGE!!!

all up for the speakers delivered it was $370 from Ryda (highly recommended)

[Pullstarter]

New amps draining a dodgy battery perhaps? Only thing I can think of.

[rayray086]

Or maybe insufficient grounding? It's always a good idea to upgrade your important cabling (positive to starter, starter to alternator, engine block to chassis) when putting in accessories like sound systems. When I installed my sound system and relocated my battery, I replaced all stock cables with 2ga cables, and made sure my ground cables were short and grounding points weren't corroded. My car starts up fine (first time everytime) and idles perfectly at 900rpm, no fluctuations.

[decksla]

the batterys fine.

we had a ground issue initially but fixed it up. i might reground it and see how it goes.

where is the best grounding point in the boot? ive used one of the bolts just behind the interior light in the hatch

[rayray086]

Most likely you'll need to upgrade your cables to thicker gauge - your current cables might not be capable of passing enough ampage?

[decksla]

im not sure.

im using the cables that came with the fusion sub which are actually quite ample.

* sigh *

[Soundofav6]

How old is your battery ?? you may want to consider changing the battery.

You can also try having your head unit OFF when starting the car.

I had similar problems but after adjusting the idle it was fines again, in my case it was an unrelated O2 sensor fault. but you can always give it a try.

[RhysQ]

with the upgraded sound system, more of the battery power is being taken (on start-up) from the ignition system. one thing you can do is turn the key to auxiliaries, leave it for a few seconds (until the stereo starts up), and then turn the car on. the battery and cabling in older cars does not cope well with power redirection, some cars a lot worse than others. same thing was happening with my old barina...(yep, i had a barina ). i just upgraded my battery to help the system out, maybe you should try this.

if problem persists, please see your doctor....

no seriously, if it keeps happening, you may need to upgrade ignition leads.

Cheers,
Rhys

[Jondarren]

Not sure if how you've got the thing wired up, but i'd run a stand alone power line from the battery directly to the amp.

By doing this you bypass the cars internal wiring system and don't put a strain on the ignition system. It will mean you can operate the stereo without the car running, or using the accessories turn on the ignition barrel.

If your headunit has a remote turn on switching wire, this will be good enough to turn on the amp when you fire up the system.

Cheers

Jon

[iluszn]

I believe the cabling used is 8gauge, it however has a blade fuse inline (Like a fuse from under the dash) which i recommended to change to a proper audio fuse.

The earth for the Sub Amplifier is taken from just behind the hatch light, earth seems good as there is no distortion or dimming of power.

When setting all this up i noticed that the Accessories power to the head unit had died, no fuses blown but the previous owner made a mess of all of this and the wire was soldered and exposed, thus shorting it somewhere.

The car seems to try to kick over, then dies. The battery is a 600CCA so power drain should not be an issue, Disconnecting the Sub and Head Unit and trying to start did not seem to make a difference. however, i believe that when the car is warm it will start no issue, thus possible coil pack issue. however, car runs fine, no missing or spluttering.

things that need to be done.

Re Run the accessories from a fuse underneath the dash board to the head unit.

Any other suggestions or anyone know of a good working VR6 coilpack for sale?