24v vr6 swap

[VOLKSMAN]

Hey guys i recently just posted up a thread in regards to a 24v vr6 2.8 swap on a golf 3 vr6.

Ive searched in vwvortex and other dub forums for information in regards to the conversion. what i need to know is besides having the 24v long block, ecu and harness what additional alterations and modifications must i do in order for this swap to work out eg electrical. cooling, mounting etc.

help from the experienced and learned will be helpful.

thanks guys.

[golf3]

Let's break it down into parts; mounting, fuel, air, wiring, cooling, accessories, gearbox, exhaust.

Mounting - I'm not entirely sure, check vwvortex, lol

Fuel - You might need the r32 fuel pump, so check flow rates of the vr6 and r32 units and adaptability to the r32 ecu.

Air - Getting air into the engine is easy enough with pod filters, etc... but just remember you'll have to add the MAF in there somewhere.

Wiring - If I were to do a mk4 swap, i'd start with a front cut including dash and dash cluster. Then I would put everything in including that dash and cluster, computers, etc.. From what I've read, unless you use all the stock wiring, you may run into troubles, hence the front cut being required...

Cooling - Stock radiator should be fine, maybe upgrade the core and/or the fans, but check adaptability to the r32 ecu to switch them on. Otherwise, rad hoses can be made to order, or you should be able to find something to use and cut up, etc...

Accessories - Think of your Air Con, Alternator, Power Steering and the mounting points and wires, hoses, etc...

Gearbox - I'd probably leave it as a 5 speed (if you can) to make the conversion easier, but I would definitely put in an LSD with the extra KW's going through it...

Exhaust - Check the r32 and vr6 manifolds, head height, etc... If you have to do a custom job, it can get very very expensive, and if it's not done right it'll crack later down the track (like my extractors)

So, after all that, I wouldn't bother until you've done your suspension properly (KW V2s or similar), brakes (312mm minimum) and ensured all your body work and interior is up to scratch...

Now, expect to budget around $10k for engine, dash, wiring, and all other extras to get it going right!

Enjoy and good luck!!

[VOLKSMAN]

thanks for the break down golf 3,
now for that being said i have a vr6 with a blown engine now suitabilty wise should i go with the project or should i just swap the vr6 for a reco.

N.B: i am a n/a believer and i wish to squeeze everyday RELIABLE driveable hp out of my car.so what are your views.

[VW VR6]

If you need a engine PM me.

[MattyT]

Amazing the amount of fiddling and money required just for an extra 20kw at 12 more valves.

Reco 12v engine + vf supercharger = more bang and less fiddle!

[VOLKSMAN]

Yeh i understand but i think golf 3 had mis understood im after a 2.8 24v vr6 not not a 3.2 24v.

Well if it seems that expensive what are your views on all motor 12v as i really believe in ensuring the vr stays off the blowers.

is seeking 210whp all day reliable all motor horsepower ideal for my vr cause i do intend this car to stay with me forever as a collectible.

[MattyT]

I'm well aware that you're talking about the 2.8 24v donk of mk4 vr6 ilk.

Still its a mk4 engine so all the mk4 bits have to come with it (so much fiddle! )

I really have no idea what the n/a tuning potential of the 12v is, but the head has poor flow and is the biggest hurdle in getting out decent hp, hence why so many end up going FI.

[VOLKSMAN]

gottya, bescause i've been speaking to bugracer in regards to a conversion and the price looks pretty hefty around the 8k+ mark so really it would be far more feasible if i stick to the 12v and and see how well a mild port and polish, 268 cams and a good sucking and blowing system would work.

[bsting]

mate has a 24v in a wagon, plus it's all mk4 inside

http://www.vask.org.nz/index.php/topic,5877.0.html

[Golf Loon]

Surely you can just bolt all the VR6 inlet and exhaust manifolds onto the 24v newer engine and run it as if its a VR6.

I havent tried to attach the manifolds, but I would not be suprised if they are the same.

Doing it this way would save on a lot of tricky and expensive wiring.

Alternatively if you wanted a cheap guaranteed replacement engine. Pm me. $1500?