My new Mk2.

Small update.

It turns out the car has insurance so for a while i was trying to work stuff out with the insurance company. I expalined to them that i started pulling the car appart because i thought i didnt have insurance, they where sympathetic but still told me over the phone that i had to put the wheels back on so they could toe it to the assesment place.

Everyone agreeded that it didnt make scence to undo so much work just so they can toe it to one place, glance at it and then toe it back. So i went down to the insurance assesment center in airport west too see if i could speak to an assessor and organise it so that they could come to the car. They where understand and a few days later an assessor came out to have a look at the car and now the cheque is in the mail and the motor bike rider can contuine being an a'hole to the insurance company.

Now that its over i can continue repairs for road worthy.
I need new rotors as the rotors from the red one are right on the limit.
For reference min road worthy thickness is 18mm on the front and 10mm on the rear.

Whats a good place for rotors?

imparts or south yarra auto parts ;) all OEM stuff

dom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spyda

Small update.

It turns out the car has insurance so for a while i was trying to work stuff out with the insurance company. I expalined to them that i started pulling the car appart because i thought i didnt have insurance, they where sympathetic but still told me over the phone that i had to put the wheels back on so they could toe it to the assesment place.

Whats a good place for rotors?

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Due that's great news. But I must ask, how could you not know if it had insurance on it or not?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by benough

Due that's great news. But I must ask, how could you not know if it had insurance on it or not?

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They took direct debit from the business account and we didn't recive the papers in the mail. We only found out when we where chasing up invoices. :)

In the mean time i had a think and i have decided to drive our mk1 3door (the one from DoVW) as it needs less for road worthy and is cheaper to run. Most of the work inside and out has already been done on it and its just a matter of cleaing it up.
This will allow me to spend more time on the mk2, after i fix what is needed for roadworthy it will go to my mate for a respray in the original color and i will do the interior and sterio build. Once that is properly finished ill rego it and look at the motor....then start all over again with the mk1 haha.

Should be fun.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spyda

They took direct debit from the business account and we didn't recive the papers in the mail. We only found out when we where chasing up invoices. :)

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Sweet! I was devo when I saw that you had crashed it.

Can I ask you an O/T question? I can't PM or send you an email via these forums...

When you deleted the oil re-breather on your red GTI did you just hose clamp the filter to the rubber hose that sits in the rocker cover?

Also how did you blank off the re-breather pipe hole in the throttle body?

I am assuming the re-breather delete sorted out the joggins idle issue completely?

Cheers mate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by benough

Sweet! I was devo when I saw that you had crashed it.

Can I ask you an O/T question? I can't PM or send you an email via these forums...

When you deleted the oil re-breather on your red GTI did you just hose clamp the filter to the rubber hose that sits in the rocker cover?

Also how did you blank off the re-breather pipe hole in the throttle body?

I am assuming the re-breather delete sorted out the joggins idle issue completely?

Cheers mate

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Are you talkin about this thing?
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...5/gn3020-1.jpg

I installed that a long time ago but i removed it because oil was coming out of it. I don't know if thats normal or not though.

All the stuff you need comes in the pack. The breather comes with a few different size fittings to fit the hole in the rocker cover and autobarn sells a cover to plug up the hole on the throttle body. I dont remember it changing the idle.

It was just for athstetics but didnt look so good when everything was covered in little bits of oil.

Yeah that's the one.

Well I expect them to be needed to be cleaned but I know you can get a catch can with a oil breather on it.

As for the idle my car, when you come off the throttle coming to a stop the idle dips down to almost stall and then comes back up again. I was told the oil re-breather doesn't work the best and sends oil back into the throttle body and ISV, hence causing the idle to drop.

So did yours, or anyone here, ever behave like it? If so did this change fix this issue?

Cheers

My mark 2 GTI with 245 000 kms suffered the same.... dropped idle almost stalling etc...I took it to a guy in Brissy and after a couple of trips finally track the problem down to the “idle" screw. The car would idle great for a week then drop down/stall with a/c on etc. Somebody had used silicone instead of a small purpose made o-ring that stops the screw turning (slowly dropping the idle over a period of time) e...I am assuming you don't have any air leeks etc and I think my car is standard dig injection. Best of luck Steve

Yeah right. When I re-did the head and then got it timed properly the idle thing pretty much disappeared but has slowly crept back.

I would prefer to keep the stock parts in there so I will get my mech to have a look for me.

Yeah I am pretty sure there aren't any air leaks in there. It's all runs very smoothly otherwise.

The info is much appreciated!

bloody digifart idle.

The ISV is suposta stabilize the idle and keep it from dropping like that. The funny thing with digifarts is that even though cleaning a working ISV should fix the problem it doesn't always. A bad idle can came from the o2 sensor, the temp sender, the o-ring on the idle screw, the ISV, vacume lines etc etc.

I can never remember how i fixed my various idle issues but i usually play around with all of the above and reset the idle.