My new Mk2.

[mikinoz]

I like the look of this, and am partial to the Audi rims!

[Spyda]

You need to drive around with a 13 mm spanner. when it is pinging, stop and adjust the dissy back a little then try again. repeat this until it goes good and pings the least.

The ISV is only for fine tuning. It was running ok before it left here and idling. Has it got petrol in it??

The front brakes are much bigger than the MK2 ones. Measure the ones on your 2 cars.

Its got about 10L left in the tank.

I tried to sort out the idle again today after work, i followed what it said in the haynes manual (warm it up, plug breather hose, unplug temp sender, rev 3 times blah blah blah). It didn’t to anything.

I then tried to sort out the timing following the Haynes manual and a DIY post on clubgti.

Im a bit puzzled. I found TDC through spark plug hole #1, at TDC the cam pulley mark lines up with the other mark, all good right? I then adjusted the dizzy so that it matches up to the rotor, at TDC it lines up with spark plug #1.
I had a look inside the hole on the gear box and the notch, that i understood should be there, wasn’t there. I turned the engine by hand to see where the notch was and when i found it, the cam pulley was no longer aligned and neither was the dizzy.
From what i understand when the engine is at TDC the cam pulley and the notch in the gear box should be aligned with their respective points.

Please correct me.

Matt, when you said it might hunt up and down when its cold but then its fine, its the other way around. When its cold it idles fine but when it warms up the idel increases and hunts up and down, even when i hold it at 2k and 3k rpm it will still go up and down (not as much as on idel but you can still see it).

[Golf Loon]

I dont usually time them through the gearbox hole, I use the bottom end pulley and the cam pulley.

The dissy pulley is often wrong too, so I would do what you said, line up bottom end with mark on pulley, check by removing spark plug one. Cam mark should now be correct too.

At this point you could make your own mark through the gearbox hole if you like. Who knows what clutch is in there, could be anything.

Now set the dissy so the rotor button points at the nearest corner of the block.

The static timing is now set.

It should be pretty close. I`d roadtest it at this point and adjust the dissy a small bit either way to get rid of the pinging.

Now put the original ISV back on the engine. You had the same problem on your old car and now it has transferred over to this one. It must be the part you swopped over.

You can clean it whilst it is out. I use subaru engine conditioner.

Now the car is warm, disconnect the temp sensor and adjust the idle speed a tiny bit with the screw on the front of the Throttle body.

Car should now sit at 850 - 1100rpm and drive ok.

If it still hunts up and down when warm, you have another issue, vacuum line or temp sensor. What vacuum lines did you swop? why? are they correct? Try removing them at this stage and see if that helps.

If you were nearer, i`d do it for you. If you still cant do it, I reckon you need to sweet talk Pete Jones.

Let us know how you go.

Is it ready for rego yet?

[Spyda]

The reason i swaped the ISV and the vacume lines is because of the idel problem. It hasnt changed since I got the car. I wouldnt change it because i was bored, what would be the point of fixing something that isnt broken.

When i swaped the vacume lines i swaped them to how they where on the red car and how it is in the haynes manual, no change, postitive or negative.

I had the same problem on my car a long time ago, i cleaned the ISV and it was all sweet. So i thought if i change the ISV with one that i know works then it should be oright. WRONG!

The funny thing is it still hunts when im holding at any rpm and it idles fine when its cold. Could it be the washer around the idle adjust screw? How do i get that screw out, i tryed today but it wouldnt come out.

I will try reset the idle again, replace the ISV and temp sender again, check the idle switch, look over the vacume lines.


Ive got work and uni till next wednesday so i dont have time to take it to get a RWC check.

[Golf Loon]

Put the vacuum line back as they were on the silver car, not how they were on the red.

Swop the ISV back.

Then try the steps above. good luck.

[Spyda]

Put the vacuum line back as they were on the silver car, not how they were on the red.

Swop the ISV back.

Then try the steps above. good luck.

Ill give it a shot, i guess it couldn't hurt.

The set up on the silver one differed from the factory set up, it was just missing a T conection and one vacume line wasn't pluged in.

BTW, after i fixed the lag problem on the red one it ran perfectly...it was just slow

[Golf Loon]

Ill give it a shot, i guess it couldn't hurt.

The set up on the silver one differed from the factory set up, it was just missing a T conection and one vacume line wasn't pluged in.

Put it back as it was, the idle used to be ok when the car was warmed up.

[Spyda]

Put it back as it was, the idle used to be ok when the car was warmed up.

Nah man, the whole way home from the depot it was funny, several times i had to rev it up to keep it alive.

[Golf Loon]

But the symptoms are different now. Change it back.

[Spyda]

But the symptoms are different now. Change it back.

I will try what you said.

I just want to make it clear that non of the symptoms have changed since i got the car. There might have been a small improvement when i changed the vacume lines and ISV but these problems are still there as they where when i picked up the car:
-It rev hunts when its warm and at any rpm
-It will stall or almost stall when you rev it and let it go at any temp
-when cold it idles normal
-when warm the idle speed increases