are you getting spark at any lead, or no leads?
if none then perhaps it's the main lead from coil, centre one - easy to check, swap any spare lead in
hi all, sorry its been a while but i have been away in the uk for a few weeks.
anyway, on my return my Golf will not start.
She has fuel (thats for you chris lol)
battery is charged (tho i did have to jump start it)
engine turns and i am getting fuel into the cylinders.
I am not getting any spark.
if i take a plug out, I get a single spark when i turn on the ignition but when i goto crank i get no spark.
i am thinking maybe the dizzy is dead or the hall sender is dead.
anyone got any ideas on checking or any thing silly i haven check
I have asked a few people if they have a spare dizzy and coil i could try, if anyone else has on please can i borrow them to try to root course the problem
many thanks
Velly
(big fat welsh bloke)
are you getting spark at any lead, or no leads?
if none then perhaps it's the main lead from coil, centre one - easy to check, swap any spare lead in
My build thread here: 1.6 sr into 1.8T http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...-8t-63249.html
only spark i get when you turn on the ignition, just a single spark.
once you start to crank the engine i do not get any spark.
even get the single spark off the main coil lead...so because of that i am thinking its ok.
i cant seem to get any spark during cranking
sounds a bit like a dud coil
here is a link for testing it if you have a multimeter:
The secondary winding of your ignition coil delivers the spark to the distributor to be sent to the spark plugs. If it's bad, you'll get a weak spark or no spark at all.
To test the coil's secondary winding, attach the test probes to the outer 12V pole and the center pole (where the main wire goes to the distributor). Determine the resistance and check to see if it's within the range indicated in your repair manual. If it is, your coil is up to the task. If it's even slightly out of range, your coil should be replaced. You are looking for 10 - 11K ohms
And about .75 ohms across the outside terminals
Try connecting a 12 volt test light between the positive and negative terminals of the coil while grounding the coil high tension wire. Crank the engine for five seconds. The test light should flicker, if not the hall effect generator within the distributor is bad. This is what signals your ignition coil to produce spark. The flickering is an indication of the voltage break which causes the coil to fire, much like the opening and closing of conventional breaker points.
My build thread here: 1.6 sr into 1.8T http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...-8t-63249.html
can't find the old coil vel. must have binned it, think that it must have been rooted.
if you wanna test my old dizzy, it's at tims.
Ignition on and king lead near an earth, then spin the dissy, needs to be a flick not slow. Should then spark away. You get one spark on turning the ignition on, that's normal, I'd say the coil is good.
Gavin
ok, here is an update, tried a new ignition amp, that hasnt fixed it.
borrowed a ECU off MAtt (Camden GTI Performance) but that gives spark on ignition 2 but not on crack (ignition3)
I think this ecu had a different part number.
All electrics have checked out ok, the car is currently with Tim (golfworx) so i know its in good hands.
so i am looking to borrow a ecu with these details
261 200 294 or Digifant II 037 906 022 M
i will happly buy it off you if anyone has one of these
cheers
velly
Hey Velly. How did you get on with this problem? Mine is doing the exact same thing.
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